A question about the Busse convex edge?

T

taiChiFighter

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Aug 20, 2011
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I've been researching the edges use on Busse knives and am a little confused. I understand that convex grind is widely recognized as being a superior edge. I also understand that creating and sharpening this type of edge is not simple. The asymmetrical variation that Busse uses on some of it's knives seems to make very good sense for hard field use by the average guy (since the "flat" side is relatively easy to sharpen). It's the full convex edges that I'm concerned about. Would it be accurate to say that, if you are not advanced in sharpening techniques you won't be able to properly sharpen this type of edge? In other words are Busse convex edges not for beginners?:confused:
 
i would not say they are not for beginner's. as long as the edge is maintained all you really have to do is strop it to keep it sharp.
 
It's not terrible to repair, Infi usually deforms before it chips so you'd have to reform the edge. I use a large chunk of Roc carbide to reform a dented or rolled edge before I sharpen. I use a hone loaded with flexcut gold polishing compound then stop on plain leather afterward. Makes for one fine edge!
 
Convex edges are the easiest to keep sharp in my experience. Much easier than v edges.

I feel they are much easier for beginners than trying to sharpen a v edge free hand.
 
Well, I know that free hand is a bit of nightmare so I got an Edge Pro but... that won't do me any good with a convex edge that needs redoing.
 
I prefer their older V edges. I find I can sharpen and re profile them easier than I can a convex. I can also get a V edge much sharper than a convex. I put a V edge on my MBC and much prefer it. I will be doing my meaner next. It takes some work but its doable, practice on some cheaper knives first.
 
jball1125 said:
I prefer their older V edges. I find I can sharpen and re profile them easier than I can a convex. I can also get a V edge much sharper than a convex. I put a V edge on my MBC and much prefer it. I will be doing my meaner next. It takes some work but its doable, practice on some cheaper knives first.
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My impression was that the two things that made a Busse superior were the steel and the grind. If the grind isn't readily maintainable I'm going to have to rethink getting a Busse at all because it's intended for real world use and sending it back to be reprofiled won't be an option.

Ps. I picked up an Edge Pro so that I could put a decent edge on standard V grinds before I ever even heard of Busse.
 
I haven't had an issue with a convex edge I couldn't fix with a smooth steel, a mouse pad (I have 3, each a different firmness), some wet dry sandpaper (320 - 600 grit) and a strop.
I have a small piece of mouse pad I take to the field with some strips of crocus cloth. Works great for touch ups.

All my V-grind Busses wind up being convex after a few sharpening.

There are a bunch of sharpening threads describing the method, & Bark River has a good video on maintaining a convex edge.

I'm sharpening challenged, I struggle even with an edge pro, convex is the only thing I can keep sharp.

edit to add, and I only work on the convex side of my Asyms, as per Peter and Will.
 
For a strop, glue a piece of mouse pad to a piece of wood and rub in Green or White buffing compound.
 
TCF ... if you have an edge pro and a dmt similar system for the field ... you are good to go on V grinds.

I did some replies recently for someone ... I forget who ... but I covered off how to judge the angle on any V system accurately using measurements and a scientific calculator to work out the inverse tangent ... have you read these posts ? Within them were good photo's also showing how the technique of a marker pen works well with a loop.

Master V grinds first. Then do an edge akin to Spyderco's recommendation of 20 degrees either side and a small 15 degrees on the back bevel. Jump right in and buy a simple Harbour frieght 1 x 30 belt sander. They are dirt cheap. 40-50 dollars. Get a cheap high grade wood belt ... no need to get an expensive set of good belts ... because all I want to demonstrate is how to get the ideal "convex" edge ... if you have done the 20/15 edge on the Edge Pro for something cheap which has enough metal on the edge to see the different main edge and back bevel ... then mark the whole edge with a black marker pen ... then approach the belt with what you think is the angle which will blend the back bevel into the main bevel and after touching the belt lightly and pulling away ... check the edge with the loop to see if all the ink on the edge was removed. It will only take a second. Depending on the results ... alter the angle till this happens. No need to move the knife along the belt. You are just checking for the right angle to hold the knife.

If you have done the 20/15 edge on a long knife this helps. You need good steel though. Sh*t steel will never sharpen well. Once you have got that angle in your head practise drawing the knife from the choil towards the tip along the belt. When you get to the belly lift the handle of the knife up and towards your body to increase the angle to a more obtuse angle. Then pull the knife away from the belt before hitting the tip with the belt as if you do this you will round the tip off when you need a good point.

Do two or three knives with just a cheap belt ... buy some knives like Mora's to learn on ... it does'nt matter that you end up putting V and then convex edges on a scandi grind. They are there for training and for giving you life time skills.

The "knack" will come.

If you cannot find good posts searching on here go to the Scrapyard Knives forum and search there. That search engine is easier and is free and look up sharpening threads by Horn Dog and by me ( Steelfan on there ) ... the threads should help a fair bit and give you links where to buy the good belts.

A 1 x 30 Harbor Freight combined with your Edge Pro will cover off all Convex and V edged blades you need to reprofile at home.

In the field one of the reasons people struggle is that they are often sharpening at angles different to the ooriginal edge. If you put your own edges on at home you will be able to top them up much easier in the field as likely they will be properly sharpened to begin with before venturing into the field.

Topping up an edge is easy when the knife is properly sharp. The DMT system will cover off V grinds for the field and go to knives ship free for a good convex field system.

Here is the link ...

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/product_info.php?cPath=637_638&products_id=7184

As time passes you will get the knack of all of this no problem :thumbup:

Now the above cover off proper sharpening and topping up ... but if you ever "dink" an edge on a stone and it is Infi you will likely see a burr and roll of the steel ... something like this ...

P1010302.jpg


To save the metal and reposition this into alignment with the edge get yourself an old tool steel large screw driver ... not ideal for field carry ... but until you have done this a few times this is what you want. Clean the dinked area and look which way the metal has rolled ... you need to steel the metal back into alignment so you run the rounded shaft of the screw driver on the relevant side of the blade pushing the steel back into place ... the longer the shaft the easier the task ... put the edge back as best you can ... you will have blunted the edge at that part by doing so ... take the knife back home if need be and repair the edge with the best method you have ... belt sander or Edge Pro ... depending upon the grind.

Once you have done a few of these dinks so that you are confident you know what you are doing you can fix them in the field if need be.

I use a rifle bolt instead of a screw driver if I am carrying one to re-align the dink or I carry a sawn off bit of screw driver shaft to act as a steel ... then I use whatever field method of sharpening I am carrying ... experience lets me know what to do ... and the same will be true for you ... but the first time it happened I was most happy taking the dink back to my work shop to sort out ...

Again ... once you have done a few the knack will come easily .. :thumbup:
 
I'm not worried about the v grinds at all but JimmyJones comments allay my worries somewhat. Logically I can see how a convex might actually be easier to work with since one doesn't need to maintain the perfect angle. Hey maybe the Samurai were actually shitty sharpeners. :eek::p

BTW The purpose of all the questioning is that, more and more I'm leaning towards a Sarge7. It's the right size, nice and light and... it's SATIN.:)
 
jimmyjones said:
There are a bunch of sharpening threads describing the method, & Bark River has a good video on maintaining a convex edge.

.
Click to expand...

Do you mean Bark River knives and are those videos that they sell? Are there any Youtube vids that anyone might recommend just to get me going?
 
Sorry, I didn't scroll down far enough on the bark river page. :o I found the vids... Thanx for the tip.

Ps. I'll shut up now. Looking at this thread, I it appears that I like to talk to myself. :D
 
taiChiFighter said:
Once again, great input... BTW, when you speak of Master V grinds are you talking about the "relief edge"?
Click to expand...

V grinds have a primary bevel ... the angle that goes to the cutting apex ... and some have a back bevel ... a shallower angle which knocks the shoulder off the primary bevel ...

The relief edge is an expression sometimes used for a back bevel ...
 
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