Why don't you see more swedges on kukris? I understand that no swedges are good for pure wood chopping and utility, but it would seem to me that swedges would work better on weapon use kukris, especially if it was going to be used for stabbing, as well as chopping and slashing.
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A Question for the Kukri Aficionados
- Thread starter Jmboz
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None of my Japanese swords have a swedge.
Some medieval western swords had a single edge with no swedge.
It would move the sweet spot.
Some medieval western swords had a single edge with no swedge.
It would move the sweet spot.
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A swedge reduces metal at the front spine which shifts the balance to the handle.
How to get metal back to the front to get the balance back and thus still have a good chopper?
Make the tip longer. At the same time make it more pointed and you got a good stabber without compromising choppiness.
If the swedge isn't too long you still have spine above the sweet spot in case you need to apply some batoning.
I'm currently making good progress on such a design, which I plan to get custom made by HI. Cant wait to share it, but want it 100% ready first before asking for feedback from all the knowledgeable people in our HI forum.
How to get metal back to the front to get the balance back and thus still have a good chopper?
Make the tip longer. At the same time make it more pointed and you got a good stabber without compromising choppiness.
If the swedge isn't too long you still have spine above the sweet spot in case you need to apply some batoning.
I'm currently making good progress on such a design, which I plan to get custom made by HI. Cant wait to share it, but want it 100% ready first before asking for feedback from all the knowledgeable people in our HI forum.
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Progress does come from new insights, but they may actually have the khukuri figured out after centuries of making and using them in in many different shapes in peace or war.
I guess you can baton a khukuri as you can baton an axe. But as the area near the point is a likely area to strike, a swedge there is like a swedge on any other knife - contra- indicated for batonning.
But if an elephant only had a longer neck it wouldn't have to push the trees over to get at the upper foliage. It would then be a big, gray Giraffe.
I guess you can baton a khukuri as you can baton an axe. But as the area near the point is a likely area to strike, a swedge there is like a swedge on any other knife - contra- indicated for batonning.
But if an elephant only had a longer neck it wouldn't have to push the trees over to get at the upper foliage. It would then be a big, gray Giraffe.
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A Giraffe with tusks. Let the tigers come 
Anyone can add a swedge to a khukuri with a good file and some hard work, or it could be done by the maker. The fact that it isn't done more often suggests that the benefits are not that great. Given that most khukuris are forward-weighted, the back-slash type of move probably isn't used much in combat. Besides, a back-slash hitting someone with the spine would be a disabling blow in most cases even without a sharpened swedge.
I think that once a design achieves the status of a tradition, makers prefer not to deviate too much from that tradition, except perhaps on occasion for a custom job. Khukuris achieved that status in Nepal a long, long time ago.
If you're interested in a khukuri with a well-defined and sharpened swedge, do a search for the HI "Ultimate Fighter."
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... and for use as a drawknife.
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Have been doing martial arts for 30 years (didn't care for black belts) , been in the army (1 year only) and got an engineering degree (didn't give me common sense), and designed a self defense weapon before (no idea how many actually sold). Still think I can do a good job on designing a Kukri which works for me.
What do I need?
Am I a Ninja or a Ghurka who can sneak up on enemies and would always have time for big swings or silently cutting throats? Nope. I'm a clumsy western guy. I'm most likely the one being attacked. Before I even know it the bad guys will have moved in close and then being able to stab will be vital. Still I would like a blade which I can use for chopping wood as well, since this will happen way more often than any self defense situation.
From what I know batoning should be done above the sweet spot and not the tip.
The HI Ultimate fighter doesn't allow batoning at all and its tip points up too much for my taste. Its not an ergonomic angle at which I would stab with a Kukri. Same problem with some of the Bowie Kukri hybrids.
Also I need a guard, in case the other guys knife slides down my blade or I'm too clumsy and in danger to grip too high and into the blade
. I also like to have a tang sticking out of the bottom to strike the other way in case I have that opportunity.
The swedge which I plan will be mostly on an extended (!) tip and thus not close to the sweet spot at all. Batoning should be working as usual.
The swedge takes away metal but the extended edge adds it back. This way the balance should stay the same as in an original shape Kukri. I try to figure out the balance with drawings and calculations before I make some mock ups. The work is far from done but I think I can share some pictures with the general idea later tonight. Might open a new threat for this.
What do I need?
Am I a Ninja or a Ghurka who can sneak up on enemies and would always have time for big swings or silently cutting throats? Nope. I'm a clumsy western guy. I'm most likely the one being attacked. Before I even know it the bad guys will have moved in close and then being able to stab will be vital. Still I would like a blade which I can use for chopping wood as well, since this will happen way more often than any self defense situation.
From what I know batoning should be done above the sweet spot and not the tip.
The HI Ultimate fighter doesn't allow batoning at all and its tip points up too much for my taste. Its not an ergonomic angle at which I would stab with a Kukri. Same problem with some of the Bowie Kukri hybrids.
Also I need a guard, in case the other guys knife slides down my blade or I'm too clumsy and in danger to grip too high and into the blade
. I also like to have a tang sticking out of the bottom to strike the other way in case I have that opportunity. The swedge which I plan will be mostly on an extended (!) tip and thus not close to the sweet spot at all. Batoning should be working as usual.
The swedge takes away metal but the extended edge adds it back. This way the balance should stay the same as in an original shape Kukri. I try to figure out the balance with drawings and calculations before I make some mock ups. The work is far from done but I think I can share some pictures with the general idea later tonight. Might open a new threat for this.
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This Vojpuri Bowie was modified by DanSmithy to have an extended tang which could be used for striking:
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I can see how a swedge would be nice, but several sword canes were designed as pure thrusting weapons and thus had no edges at all, just a needle point on a long piece of tapered steel. Examining my chitlangi I can only deduce that it'd stab pretty well swedge or no swedge, so I feel no need for one. If the Scheutz Homonid Limbing Tool looks good (pointier and stabbier than a siru or kobra) I might become interested in a swedge khukuri. Until then I'm saving for a HI karambit.
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I know zip about martial arts not involving firearms.
I do know something about using a knife and baton to dissect wood. That was part of desert and mountain survival training at Barstow in 1961, only the Gunny called it "splitting wood with a knife" ("No prying!")
Point-first batonning aside (which makes me nervous - pounding on the pommel and all), after you baton the knife into the wood, the middle part may end up flush with the surface of the wood.
The typical technique is then to baton the tip of the knife that is protruding from the wood. That's why the MK II is limited - sharpened swedge chews up your baton.
Here is a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyDW9T-ecFc He uses poor technique in rocking the handle below the part he is striking. That can lead to a knife in more than one piece unless its a massive piece of steel
Better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiv-9X1C1k0
A knife more in the khukuri class AND convex ground (when the gent stops talking): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdGbOTkAGig
If no part of the knife is exposed to strike, you have tackled too large s piece for the knife -- need to take smaller bites. (^____^)
I am eager to see your creation.
I do know something about using a knife and baton to dissect wood. That was part of desert and mountain survival training at Barstow in 1961, only the Gunny called it "splitting wood with a knife" ("No prying!")
Point-first batonning aside (which makes me nervous - pounding on the pommel and all), after you baton the knife into the wood, the middle part may end up flush with the surface of the wood.
The typical technique is then to baton the tip of the knife that is protruding from the wood. That's why the MK II is limited - sharpened swedge chews up your baton.
Here is a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyDW9T-ecFc He uses poor technique in rocking the handle below the part he is striking. That can lead to a knife in more than one piece unless its a massive piece of steel
Better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiv-9X1C1k0
A knife more in the khukuri class AND convex ground (when the gent stops talking): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdGbOTkAGig
If no part of the knife is exposed to strike, you have tackled too large s piece for the knife -- need to take smaller bites. (^____^)
I am eager to see your creation.
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Hi Thomas,
Desert and mountain survival training in '61 Awesome! I bet you know how to make due without baby stuff like Camelbaks and hand warmers. We only had snow and forest survival ('96) (only hills and no real mountains) and wished we would have done more of it. Now we just need a Navy guy and then we can complete our skills with High Seas survival
Batonning the very tip which is pointed can not be much worse than hitting a swedge. Poor bended tip of the knife. Would never do this to one of my blades
Here is what I have worked on so far. You can see the unswedged area for batoning is not much smaller than on an original Kukri and for that little compromise you get much more stabbing power.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...bby-Kukri-(work-in-progress-help-appreciated)
I hope you think its useful. But also tell me if not.
Thank you.
KJ
Im getting a Karambit too for more urban situations. Can't run through my neighborhood with a full sized Kukri even if there are weird junkies next to my kids playground a few times a week. They seem harmless and usually run away when I pretend to film them with my cellphone. Dogs are worse. Two times they tried to attack my kids. Once yelling at them was sufficient, the second time I needed pepper spray. I think a little Karambit is a good backup once it gets to the ground and dirty. Carrying a Kukri at all times openly (CA doesn't allow concealed fixed blades) would look, well, overkill, especially in a courtroom
But of course its longer reach would be preferable to the Karambit when dealing with sharp teeth.
Please have a look at the link too and tell me what you think of the Kukri.
Thank you.
Desert and mountain survival training in '61 Awesome! I bet you know how to make due without baby stuff like Camelbaks and hand warmers. We only had snow and forest survival ('96) (only hills and no real mountains) and wished we would have done more of it. Now we just need a Navy guy and then we can complete our skills with High Seas survival
Batonning the very tip which is pointed can not be much worse than hitting a swedge. Poor bended tip of the knife. Would never do this to one of my blades
Here is what I have worked on so far. You can see the unswedged area for batoning is not much smaller than on an original Kukri and for that little compromise you get much more stabbing power.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...bby-Kukri-(work-in-progress-help-appreciated)
I hope you think its useful. But also tell me if not.
Thank you.
KJ
Im getting a Karambit too for more urban situations. Can't run through my neighborhood with a full sized Kukri even if there are weird junkies next to my kids playground a few times a week. They seem harmless and usually run away when I pretend to film them with my cellphone. Dogs are worse. Two times they tried to attack my kids. Once yelling at them was sufficient, the second time I needed pepper spray. I think a little Karambit is a good backup once it gets to the ground and dirty. Carrying a Kukri at all times openly (CA doesn't allow concealed fixed blades) would look, well, overkill, especially in a courtroom
But of course its longer reach would be preferable to the Karambit when dealing with sharp teeth.Please have a look at the link too and tell me what you think of the Kukri.
Thank you.
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