A question on patina.

Joined
Mar 28, 2013
Messages
1,730
I've been using my samsher more and more as of late, and seemingly no amount of oiling or waxing is preventing it from developing those lovely dark blotches all over the blade. What are your tips on preventing such a thing? I'm debating putting a vinegar patina on the blade itself and polishing it up a little bit. The mirror finish is sure perty but not very conducive to staying that way in the marshy hardwood forest I'm in. Is there an alternative, preferred method instead of a forced patina? Here's a bit of eye candy in one of the few not so swampy, softwood laden parts of my woods.

CF52644A-341D-4E6C-8FC5-EB51C1D3C71A.jpg
 
Darth, not trying to sound negative, but once upon a time I used to "age" or create "patina" on some of the barrels of muzzle loaders I was building. Then one rainy day, while crating a rifle for a Texas customer, I looked closely at the metal and realized that although the "patina" looked great, it did not actually look like a natural patina. I stopped what I was doing and thought on the subject quite a bit. I eventually came to the conclusion that why put a false wannabe patina on a brand new rifle? It was not an honest patina and would alter any natural patina that should develop over the next several years. If you look at the induced patina in another light and that being as a metal finish only, the issue only becomes more cloudy for purists and hard core collectors down the road. The false patina hides honest wear and tear and causes some people to question your motives. I had one customer ask what was I trying to hide on the barrel I forged. Nothing. I just wanted the rifle to appear "older". He laughed and said, Yeah. The metal looks older, but the stock looks new. Who ever made and sold an original rifle like that? To make a longer story short, since those days, I've changed my personal opinion of induced patinas and prefer to let Mother Nature take her course. I'm not suggesting that you change your mind, but to merely decide if that is the way you really wish to go. Later, dude.
 
I never thought of that but that's some good thinking. hmmm, probably why I never thought of it.

I do see the logic in it, perhaps the lessons of my youth telling me not to mess with mother nature were more meaningful than I assumed.
 
Thanks for the advice, the best bet sounds like I should let nature take it's course and let it develop a patina that way. Guess the best way to speed that up is to use it more!
 
I clean the residual sap off with rubbing alcohol immediately after use. It will remove those black smudges. Not to stop the patina but just to keep it clean so when it goes back in the sheath I dont deposit sand and bugs and stuff in the sheath. Otherwise what Bookie said:thumbup:
 
The forced mustard patina I put on my 17 3/4" WW2 that I use all the time rusts less than the 18"CAK I let develop normally. ymmv

:)
Mark
 
Correct, Greenwoods. Patina is a form of rust. That is why muzzle loader builders "brown" their barrels. It is controlled rusting, holds more oil longer, thus preventing additional rust for a while. The brown has to be "cured" to stop the active rusting process. If it doesn't get "killed", the rust never stops "blooming".
 
If you would like best of both worlds with some blueing type stain over long periods but also keep shiny for the better part, buy a stick of red rouge polishing compound and rub on pure waxed (not abrasive auto wax) or oiled CLEAN cloth and hand polish blade....this is used as final polish on gold and silver and will not mark steel whatsoever....

Otherwise i wash all knife blades with hot soapy water and hot rinse to speed dry and then my wax/oil/pet mix.....some tap water will immediately stain blades, fyi....the polish removes such...

PS....i agree any fake patina/pickling looks fake....too even....too perfect....too vandalized.....luckily it polishes off with above....
 
Last edited:
I always wash it with either a scotchbrite or SOS pad and warm soapy water after I come in from an excursion, the only thing I find with these mirror polished blades is it sure doesn't take much to notice a blotch! I guess it gives me more reason to take it out and use it eh?
 
I avoid the scotchbrite or SOS as they go after the polish job the kamis worked so hard to apply....even most polishes can be seen to haze the glaze when turned in light.

My Ang Khola of several tours was bright salt and pepper as some places with 120degs and rain was simply burnish daily to forestall pitting....it is still in one of the Stans i imagine, with some new owner, if not with kid i gave it to....

The above mentioned rouge works on stains and blotches but not etching or pits....ah the leisure of stateside life....but i use some pricey knives and have seen some rich folk line up to pickle same to look as if they use them for more than internet photo ops or imagine it stops rust....just polish the stupid thing with a polish which does not hurt gold if worried about marring precious original grind lines on the expensive knives...and it works great on khukuris too....or do like the rich folk and buy 1oz $20 tubes of magic polish and preservative from gun and knife supply folk and keep everybody employed....
 
Last edited:
I've seemed to not have any issue with SOS pads, might be where its' real fine steel wool and the soapy whatever on them. Might try the wax you mentioned above for sure. The only HI blade I've ever touched with vinegar was my IBBB/MMB because they're such moddable little blades. It actually came out pretty good, I might grind the tang stub down a little more too.

The way I see it: Getting a good natural patina on a blade is like growing a beard, it'll be blotchy at first and your friends will laugh at it but give it some time and they'll be jealous!
 
Personally i wish i could keep them perfect as new but that is for the folk who literally never sheath and handle with cotton gloves and who make any collection here appear pedestrian....they only need to watch for drool on them.
..i do not get it.

All can do is use the users and ignore the investments, and on some names can buy stainless as an option....which i do, if possible....

The khukuri i will keep polished as much as possible....when staining builds up, polish it off, only takes a few minutes...it will never completely eliminate as always much in surface defects, but sure keeps a knife pretty....rouge is quite cheap...a 5-7oz stick of Vigor red rouge will cost under $20 shipped and last a lifetime....just rub end of stick on oil cloth....and safe on all metals...

As for pads being safe, i guarantee if you use a pad in a certain spot and go only one way and then turn blade in bright sunlight, you will find that patch right away...

PS ADDED...i have not been clear, but the rouge will allow browns and blues to build but slowly and subtly under the silver shine....a slow slow patina....anything else more thorough would need level surface to a mirror shine, and even if it came that way, it surely would not stay that way, right?.
.
 
Last edited:
On my user khuks (and some knives), I've tried both a cold blue finish rubbed down with 0000 steel wool and oil before using, and on others I've just let them patina naturally. The cold blue gives them a nice look (especially the villager finished models) and wards off some rust, but not much. After a few years they look pretty much the same. Mine usually get a water wash, quick sharpening on 400 grit belt, and oil wipe after use. Boeshield T-9 does a great job in keeping the rust at bay when yer not usin' 'em. It's waxy and a thin coating sticks great until you use it again. :)
 
At our shop we use Frog Lube paste. Apply, buff in, apply another thin layer, gentle heat with hair dryer/heat gun, then 30min or more to cool. Wile away excess with a paper towel while leaving a thin layer. We did this method at first on a few customer's knives, swords and straight razors. Pretty soon we were inundated with requests to carry Frog Lube. It's now our best selling blade care product. Also we use Flitz polish go remove rust. It's non ebrasive and Wong scratch the mirror polish. Just used some on my CRKT Shinbu and it worked great!
 
I had mentioned in another thread on using my own goop as a preservative, being beeswax/petrolatum/mineral oil melted together...has fairly good staying power due to wax, but not as good as any hard wax....but also easily wiped on with rag reused months on end...but also black powder lube and great for dry skin! (wink)....seriously, any on hands can just be rubbed in and good for you....would not advise that with most products....
On patina, i look on forced patina the way i look at some guy wearing Ranger tab he did not earn...trying to look as if the knife had been there, done that, bought the t-shirt, and wouldn't wanna do it again...

As an fyi on cold blue, it is a copper wash and old check for touched up guns was an alcohol wipe which took it right off...
 
I don't force a patina but I definitely encourage one. With new pocket knives I'll use them to cut up my lunch burritos, knowing full well the acidic salsa will darken the blade.
 
Back
Top