A sharpening we will go ....

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Sep 2, 2003
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I happened to be in what passes for a knife shop in these parts today. They had a Lansky basic sharpening system. Since I'm always keen to try new toys and this wasn't especially expensive I decided to try it out. I'll give it a go on some old kitchen knives tonight and see how it goes. Call me unadventurous but I'm not going to clamp my SnG in there first off.

I would like to hear from those who have one of these, tell me what you think about them, good, bad or otherwise. Any good tips, that sort of thing.

I'm not looking for comparisons with other systems/methods, I have a Sharpmaker and I hope to get an Edgepro soon, I'm just looking for comments on the Lansky from those who own or have owned one.
 
I've got a Lansky Gaj.

+ Can create a consistent edge angle
+Relatively easy to use.

- Angle changes slightly as as you move left and right of center the stone moves further away from it's pivot point (on straight edge blades). This is more marked at the steeper angles.
- Hard to use the shallowest setting as the locking bolt gets in the way.
- Preset angles not often the same as factory settings so you are creating a different bevel to begin with most of the time.
- Fiddly to set up.

I've actually stopped using mine and just go freehand. However if I totally wrecked the edge on one of my blades I may use it to establish a bevel again.
 
Great on small utility knives with a 20 deg or more angle. Blades more than 4" can be a pain to do evenly without having to futz with the clamp.
 
I had one. I didn't like it because it was hard to use (to me), the clamping system scratched blades, and because the angles were not uniform.

I now use an Edge Pro and a Sharpmaker, and consider it the closest thing to a perfect sharpening system in existance.
 
The system works fine for me, but knife sharpening really is a personal thing. You may have to move/slide it down for longer blades, works great on mid/small knives. I've never had many problems with it and with practice it performs its function well.
 
gajinoz, here's a good one. I got a good deal on a Buck/Mayo TNT and wanted to get a "good edge" on it. Clamped it up in the "ol Lansky and started sharpening away. raised a burr and started on the other side.....
I noticed that on that knife, the full hollow grind, the blade was clamped in crooked! Had to start all over :( I.E. check to see if the blade is clamped straight! ( have Smith's, Lansky, and Gatco) all the same. :mad:

All in all, I get good results if I'm carefull. :)
 
wwells20 said:
gajinoz, here's a good one. I got a good deal on a Buck/Mayo TNT and wanted to get a "good edge" on it. Clamped it up in the "ol Lansky and started sharpening away. raised a burr and started on the other side.....
I noticed that on that knife, the full hollow grind, the blade was clamped in crooked! Had to start all over :( I.E. check to see if the blade is clamped straight! ( have Smith's, Lansky, and Gatco) all the same. :mad:
Ahhh.. good tip!

This is the reason I plan to practice on a few old kitchen knives and not start out on my new SnG or Sebbie! :)
 
one more thing, on Spyderco's (UK PEN) i need to get up close to the handle for a flat part of the blade. Walter
 
I have a Lansky Kit, and it sits at the bottom of my "knife-drawer", never to see the light of day...:). I don't like the Lansky "clamp-system", as it's a hassle to set-up, and it's way too "limiting" in its' use.

The Spyderco 302 ceramic benchstones is the way to go. (I have a fine & ultra-fine, and they "get the job done".).
 
It works great for reprofiling and even geting a very sharp edge IF and thats a big IF, the knife blade is wide enough to fit in the clamp well and the blade is not too long.

I tried using mine on smaller and less-wide blades. It couldn't get a decent grip so I overtightened it. The aluminum clamp bent.

Now it's just freehand/sandpaper and sharpmaker to finish up.

If you are less abusive to the lansky, it will do a good job profiling blades for you, especially if you get an Xcourse diamond hone. (Just watch blades with a 'crink' in them or an odd grind -some sjs - as they will not always have equal angles to the blade when clamped)
 
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