A source for decent wood wedges...?

C

chevyguy72

Joined
Apr 11, 2016
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15
I've been browsing the web for a decent source for wood wedges in various types of wood and haven't come up with much. Thrane axe and saw Co. sells a wide variety but shipping was going to be like 15 bucks for a few wedges...needless to say that's not going to work for me. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time
 
Best way is to make your own. I think I've seen the at the big box stores also at Ace and True Value.
 
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Our Ace and True Value stopped carrying them separate from handles - in fact, when I last looked at handles at those two places they didn't even come with wedges...

Cooking boards can do if you find them cheap:



You can choose your flavor as well - poplar, cherry, alder, etc.
 
chevyguy72 said:
I've been browsing the web for a decent source for wood wedges . . .
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RICKOFF said:
Best way is to make your own. . .
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Agree. I don't see why a scrap of construction lumber wouldn't be just fine. If you want a contrasting wood (cherry, walnut, etc) get a piece of firewood or branch.


Square_peg said:
. . .Just make sure the grain runs the short way across the wedge.
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Like this?

29049005864_6359a1d764_b.jpg

Bob
 
You can buy a small board at Menard's, Lowe's, Home depot wrapped in plastic of Cherry or Walnut for $20. Expensive, but it will make a lot of nice looking wedges.
 
rjdankert said:

Agree. I don't see why a scrap of construction lumber wouldn't be just fine. If you want a contrasting wood (cherry, walnut, etc) get a piece of firewood or branch.




Like this?

29049005864_6359a1d764_b.jpg

Bob
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From a structural (ie least amount of shrinkage) standpoint this is sound advice but wedges with this grain orientation are a sonuvagun to 'drive in' without their splitting or breaking. Consequently I favour going the other way even though tangential movement has most movement due to humidity and/or curing.
 
chevyguy72 said:
Thanks for the advice guys. I like the "make your own" idea...I'm going to try and tackle that
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i make wedges from scraps i have around the shop. Poplar is pretty darn good, Hickory is really hard and tends to split easily, but most wood wedges will split if you hammer them. i've used Black Walnut cause it is easily rived from billets. Red Elm might be good but i don't think i've ever used it.
Honey Locust is good and strong, Black Locust should be ok also. wish i had some Black Locust to make a handle or two.
i've sawn wedges using a bandsaw and i've also chopped them out by using a hatchet.
leave them proud in the kerf for awhile just incase you change your mind about using a particular handle that way you can remove the wedge if you need to.
whatever pieces i have leftover from making axe wedges i use to make wedges for hammers
 
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Agent_H said:
Cooking boards can do if you find them cheap:
You can choose your flavor as well - poplar, cherry, alder, etc.
Click to expand...

I'll second making your own and Agent_H's comments about cutting/cooking boards. Sometimes you can also go to your local lumbar yard or building supply and they will let you pick through the ends & trash heap.

My favorite part of a hang is shaping the kerf wedge...:barf::barf: I can't tell you how many times I've tried to thin a wedge on the belt sander... without wearing gloves... after a brew (or two)... and all I manage to accomplish is removing my fingerprints... Most everything (store bought or self-made) needs a little thinning/shaping so might as well DIY and do it right.
 
300Six said:
From a structural (ie least amount of shrinkage) standpoint this is sound advice but wedges with this grain orientation are a sonuvagun to 'drive in' without their splitting or breaking. Consequently I favour going the other way even though tangential movement has most movement due to humidity and/or curing.
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Two things will help with that.
One, drive the wedge with a wide flat wooden mallet that covers the entire wedge or at least most of it. If you don't have such a mallet (easily carved from a hardwood branch) then you can just lay a 2x4 over the wedge and drive it with a single jack.
Two, use a tough wood that resists splitting like Elm or London Plane. My current batch are Elm and they work great.
 
rjdankert said:
My post was not meant as an opinion on any orientation. :)

Bob
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No offense at all Bob! I love your graphic illustrations. They spell out precisely and visually what other folks are praying to be able to convey with words.
 
I normally make wedges with whatever wood scraps on hand. Often oak just because I reuse alot of pallets.
Anyway, since I use a bandsaw & its so easy, I make wedges about 4" long. Its real easy then to hammer in & never split.
 
Making wedges is a perfect excuse for resorting to 'good old' hand tools. With-the-grain tapered cuts pose some difficulty when you use a table saw or an electric mitre saw. But a sharp fine tooth handsaw is just the ticket for maintaining absolute control and there's no danger of kickbacks, wood burns etc.
 
rjdankert said:

Agree. I don't see why a scrap of construction lumber wouldn't be just fine. If you want a contrasting wood (cherry, walnut, etc) get a piece of firewood or branch.




Like this?

29049005864_6359a1d764_b.jpg

Bob
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The caption on the lower right is quite interesting. If the illustrated direction of shrinkage is correct then wedges cut parallel with the Radial-marked arrow (as shown) would move more (8%) in width then would those with that were cut parallel with the Tangential axis (4%). In which case the larger depiction of wedge grain orientation, that Bob has graciously supplied, is lesser desirable. It's sideways movement you're trying to minimize not end ways.
 
300Six said:
The caption on the lower right is quite interesting. If the illustrated direction of shrinkage is correct then wedges cut parallel with the Radial-marked arrow (as shown) would move more (8%) in width then would those with that were cut parallel with the Tangential axis (4%). In which case the larger depiction of wedge grain orientation, that Bob has graciously supplied, is lesser desirable. It's sideways movement you're trying to minimize not end ways.
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The inset graphic is correct in that for most species the radial shrinkage is usually more than tangential, and for all species, the longitudinal shrinkage is much smaller.

The trouble is, those figures are more in line with green to dry shrinkage (reflecting the interests of the industry that funds research, unsurprisingly). Figures I've seen for shrinkage/swelling due to seasonal %RH changes are much smaller, around a percent instead of 4%-8%. The ratio between radial and longitudinal is also lower for hardwoods, typically 1.3 down to parity. Softwoods maintain the ratio of 2 you see in the graphic however.
 
whatever you do, dont use a hardware store 2x4, those things squeeze badly, use a hardwood, you know what? cut up some firewood and make'm (unless you're a west coast guy and you have firs and pines)
 
300Six said:
The caption on the lower right is quite interesting. If the illustrated direction of shrinkage is correct then wedges cut parallel with the Radial-marked arrow (as shown) would move more (8%) in width then would those with that were cut parallel with the Tangential axis (4%). In which case the larger depiction of wedge grain orientation, that Bob has graciously supplied, is lesser desirable. It's sideways movement you're trying to minimize not end ways.
Click to expand...

serotina said:
The inset graphic is correct in that for most species the radial shrinkage is usually more than tangential, and for all species, the longitudinal shrinkage is much smaller.

The trouble is, those figures are more in line with green to dry shrinkage (reflecting the interests of the industry that funds research, unsurprisingly). Figures I've seen for shrinkage/swelling due to seasonal %RH changes are much smaller, around a percent instead of 4%-8%. The ratio between radial and longitudinal is also lower for hardwoods, typically 1.3 down to parity. Softwoods maintain the ratio of 2 you see in the graphic however.
Click to expand...

That's just it. We're talking about wood that has already dried. I'm looking for maximum strength under compression.
 
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