A tips for edging softer leather (Such as belly leather)?

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

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Mar 19, 2007
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I am using 8-10 ounce Wickett and Craig leather. I love it - but as all leather I have encountered - the softer the leather gets the harder it is to edge. At times I dye the leather and it gets a bit stiffer and I can edge it a little. This got me to thinking - is there any ways you all use to edge leather that is a bit soft or mushy.

Any advice is great.

TF
 
The best, the very best, advice I can give is if the edge is going to be important....and it always is.........DO NOT use soft low quality leather which, of course includes belly leather. Very simple rule....just don't use it!

I'm sure there will be alternate opinions, but I have always believed that if you use crap to build something chances a very good it will still look like crap when you are finished.

Paul
 
Its the reason why I stick with the double shoulders and/or double butts, its too tempting to use all that wasted belly leather. The belly of the cow is very stretchy and spongy when wet, even when dry it retains a lot of that character. It wont harden correctly or stay that way for long at all.

To keep myself honest to the craft, I stay away from bellies. The monetary savings are just not worth the headache or heartache.

I did learn this lesson over 13 years ago when I bought a belly to save some cash and told one of my mentors Dave Cole what I'd done and got a good length speech about what I'd done. :p Thankfully my local Leather Factory has a good return policy. :)
 
sheathmaker said:
The best, the very best, advice I can give is if the edge is going to be important....and it always is.........DO NOT use soft low quality leather which, of course includes belly leather. Very simple rule....just don't use it!

I'm sure there will be alternate opinions, but I have always believed that if you use crap to build something chances a very good it will still look like crap when you are finished.

Paul
Click to expand...

+1 This...

BUT since it sounds as if you are already into it and are trying to salvage something, Gum Trag may help add some hardness, barring that, you could use the hot wax and oil treatment, that can make a sheath almost as hard as nails, not sure how well it will stiffen up belly leather, but as the good folks above have mentioned, unless it's for your own use and not being sent to another person, even as a gift as afterwards if it's shown to someone else, the reasons for why it appears as it does will get lost and all that's left is the work you've done, which might not be putting you in the best of light...bottom line...what the smarter fellars above have stated is pretty good advice ;)
G2
 
I agree with Paul and leatherman 100% I use nothing but the best . Its worth it for the carving, tooling and edging. KT
 
I bought two sides fairly recently - and have been using the belly for welts and the like - having little issue. I am not sure how this happened - but I was on the butt of the animal and finished up the sheath - it took tooling pretty well - but the belt loop (it was a pouch sheath) must have dipped into the belly as it was much softer.

Dwayne - where do you order your double shoulders or butts from?

TF
 
Tal, if the sheath is for eventual sale, then to the trash can with it! Consider your lost time and materials tuition for a lesson not likely to be forgotten. ie: Before committing the pattern to leather check the area of the leather both grain and flesh to be sure there is acceptable continuity of quality. A nice smooth grain side can sure fool you. Don't let a sub standard piece get out of your shop.....it will bite you sooner or later.

Paul
 
Talfuchre said:
I bought two sides fairly recently - and have been using the belly for welts and the like - having little issue. I am not sure how this happened - but I was on the butt of the animal and finished up the sheath - it took tooling pretty well - but the belt loop (it was a pouch sheath) must have dipped into the belly as it was much softer.

Dwayne - where do you order your double shoulders or butts from?

TF
Click to expand...
I'm lucky to have a very good manager at my local Leather Factory, he used to be one of the boss's at the central in Ft Worth. I get to hand pick my shoulders and other cuts of leather and get called when really good stuff comes in.

I have been using a mix of the new #1 and European imported leather and have not been disappointed yet. It was hit and miss for a while there as they went through a transition where the leather was just plain unacceptable. I spend too much there to let it go, so lots of fussing later from me and lots of other makers and we have the #1 back as well as a larger European imported line. I still hand pick everything though, force of habit and being very fussy. I had one side sent in from a suggested tannery and never again will I let someone else pick my leather.
 
Most of that belly leather has got a paper mache effect to it. Its not only that the leather looks bad, but its a royal pain in the ass to work with. I would just toss it aside and never look at it again, because its nothing but problems.

I have switched to using backs (aka bends). There is far too much waste when using sides are far as I am concerned. I'd say with sides I would have 25%+ waste, and the backs are only 10% or less waste. Granted, I am able to sell off the scrap leather at events and such, but it started to pile up on me.

I get all my leather from Springfield Leather Co. I believe they have the "Craftsman" grade backs listed on their website, but I have to call to get the "B" Grade backs.
 
To explain why I continue to use sides instead of backs. I use a considerable amount of 2/3 oz leather. I have a Cobra 14 splitter. The sorry belly leather becomes perfect 2/3 top grain with a trip through the splitter. My waste now is practically nil.

Paul
 
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