A word on TOPS 1095

Steelhog

Steelhog

Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
1,176
Hey all. About 4 years ago I snagged a TOPs CAT on an impulse purchase. I never really cared for the knife so for the last 4 years this is the knife I grab when I have abusive tasks. I have been very impressed with the TOPS 1095 during this time. This has been the default knife to dig out nails, staples, dig holes in the ground, scrape metal, used as a chisel, cut shingles and more abuse. I also have used this knife almost exclusively to split very hard red oak, maple and hickory while I am smoking meat. Given the small size of the knife almost all baton strikes are right on the tip......Still no issues. I am honestly shocked it hasten broken yet. So for anyone looking at TOPs in 1095 - I have been beyond impressed with the toughness.

https://imgur.com/gallery/90zGsjj
 
I have owned several Tops knives and they were terrific. Tops does a nice heat treat on their 1095 blades.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
If I remember correctly, they used to, way back, but don't any longer.
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Thanks for the info. I believe you're right after doing a little more research.


Tops is one that usually falls off my radar but some of their big blades may be in my future if save up enough piggies full of pennies. The one that passed through my hands in a pair of trades, the mini sere operator, was very well done overall but had a tiny handle. Their Ron Hood design, anaconda, is pretty interesting, as is a few of their bolo inspired blade shapes.

I agree on their thickness though. I feel that's pretty common with many brands.
 
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The TOPS Skinat is one of my favorite hard-use EDC blades. Kind of thick for the blade height, but tough as nails, and takes a good edge.
 
They make some nice knives. Many of them do suffer from poor cutting geometry. I have often considered alot of their stuff to be beefy knives for people who don’t treat their knives particularly well. For example I have their BOB bushcraft knife.....I have no idea how a knife with such a poor cutting geometry is a bushcraft knife. It is probably the toughest “bushcraft” knife ever.

I think they are exactly what they describe themselves as. Tough knives for individuals too hardcore to know or care how to use a knife properly.
 
I have an MSK 2.5 that I did a high flat regrind on. Didn't like the coating much, and I did a forced patina on it.
You could really see the differential heat treat they did on it.
It's one of my favorite pocket fixed to carry.
 
I tend to agree, on many models, they seem to trade off good edge geometry for a knife that is almost impossible for the average person to break. Mostly because they'd never think of the kind of abuses us knife weirdos would think of. If some time is spent putting a good edge on one, the TOPS 1095 heat treat is pretty much spot on for a using knife. With that caveat, I'd have no problem recommending TOPS knives to anyone who needed a well-built, better-than-Walmart knife at a reasonable price. Good steel, good heat treatment, good fit and finish for the price. And, depending on the model, maybe with some actual style thrown in, for good measure.
 
Top`s edges are for hard uses :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: and no problem bringing 154cm 25dps shaving sharp.

Edit: had to post it... Skip to 4:30

 
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A Tops Scandi Trekker is high on my want list, but I can barely find any info on them. The few TOPS knives I've had do tend to be too thick behind the edge for my liking, but it's not that big a deal to thin them out a bit. The only one I really couldn't work with was the Ute 2 I once had. That knife was very thick considering the short blade length, and low blade height. Made it impossible to put a useable edge on it. There just want enough real estate to let it taper down.
 
cut it out said:
When 1095 is done right it’s hard to beat. And affordable. ESEE and TOPS are my fav 1095 makers.
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This is what 1095 looks like when accidentally done wrong


even when done right with enough use/abuse it might fail at some point , I think you already know that but I wanted to share this with you all.
I find knife test/fail videos entertaining
 
User27 said:
This is what 1095 looks like when accidentally done wrong


even when done right with enough use/abuse it might fail at some point , I think you already know that but I wanted to share this with you all.
I find knife test/fail videos entertaining
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I don't want to sound harsh toward Carbon Steels lovers but..... It has been out of the bushcrafting game for while now. I have some of them and I love`em. Not for that kind of task.

From the solidity and edge retention available nowadays Carbon Steel will gracefully leave it`s place to high tech alloys that are frankly, light years ahead of it.
 
SteelJunkee said:
I don't want to sound harsh toward Carbon Steels lovers but..... It has been out of the bushcrafting game for while now. I have some of them and I love`em. Not for that kind of task.

From the solidity and edge retention available nowadays Carbon Steel will gracefully leave it`s place to high tech alloys that are frankly, light years ahead of it.
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Can you name your top 3 bushcrafting steels? (whatever is the best)

Can you name your top 3 bushcrafting knives? (any size...just want an opinion as the Junglas may be the only true woods knife that I have)

Thanks!
 
Tommy-Chi said:
Can you name your top 3 bushcrafting steels? (whatever is the best)

Can you name your top 3 bushcrafting knives? (any size...just want an opinion as the Junglas may be the only true woods knife that I have)

Thanks!
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Yes of course.

How long is the ESEE Junglas ??? I like it, is it"Not too long" but sturdy...

1: (God Help ME) it`s a freaking CFK Cutlery Hunters Companion II..... In D2 (for summer)
2:Tops bob, in 154cm (all the time)
3:Fallllllllllllllllkniven F1, Lam VG-10 (for winter)

that`s what I use.
 
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