A2 / D2 vs. O1

C

Cooter DeGraw

Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Messages
44
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to one and all.
I would like to try some different steels but have read somewhere that D2 and A2 both possess some quirks that possibly would make them difficult to work for a beginner such as myself. Please tell me about these quirks, if in fact that it is true. Thanks, Cooter(aka Tom Hollowell)
 
The more complex the steel the more critical is the HT ! D2 ,a 'semistainless 'requires higher temperatures as do all the stainless steels. The stainless steels and A2 require longer soak times also.That means a temperature controlled oven and careful attention to time.
 
The main drawback of A2 and D2 for those with minimal equipment is that they are air hardening steels. Their heat treatment requires closer temperature tolerances (at higher temperatures) and oxygen exclusion than can be done with simple forges or a welding torch. That is not to say that it hasn't been done with other methods,but that is a big problem if you want a good quality result from the HT. Other than that, and that fact that D-2 can be a bit tough to grind (forget hand filing),they both make good knives.Just send them to Texas Knife Supply or some other Heat Treater when you have them ready (sand to a good 400 grit finish before HT - coarser scratches are a B!+(H to get out once hardened!)

There are many good steels,each has its own use and abilities. Pick one that does most of what you require and work with it until you get it perfected.
Ed Fowler still is trying to perfect two steels 52100 and 5160. He probably won't live long enough to say he has them completely mastered.
For a new maker I would recommend 1080,1095,and 5160.Those can be purchased at affordable prices,allowing for experimentation and ,MOST IMPORTANTLY, destructive testing. A bit more work to master is 52100,another excellent steel.
Stacy
 
I favor the stainless steels - just because they have evolved to the point where they will perform beside good tool steels and they won't rust or tarnish in the process.

I've started working on folders lately and I don't have a surface grinder. Since these steels come precision ground, I've used both O1 and D2 because of the much nicer starting point. Both performed well. I like the edge on the D2 better, though that may have as much to do with my unpredictable edge geometry as with the steel. D2 is a *itch to get a good spring temper on.

Now, however, we have started to stock precision ground CPM154 - and I expect there will be no looking back. :thumbup: :D

Rob!
 
listen to Ilmarinen about not trying to had file it.
I am a new guy at this and have made a few by filing them. 440 c
I have a old friend that worked in a heat treat lab at a bearing factory
and he wanted a knife out of d2. So i went against the advise of a friend
of mine who is 80 years old and makes knives proffessionally (for a living)
It was a ton of work, took the teeth of my bandsaw blade. (not a cheapie)
I got it done but I should have got the belt grinder first.
good luck
we learn by are mistakes, so i must be learning fast.
aka Tim Schisler
 
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