A2 - Hard Edge/Soft Back???

[tejas7]

I am a big proponent of O-1 and 5160 for my stock removal blades. The main reason being that those two steels are easy to get a hold of, pretty cheap and mainly because I can heat treat them with a torch at home.

I may soon step up and purchase my own heat treating oven in the not too distant future. I will also get a liquid nitrogen container to replace my current "dry ice in the ice chest method".

Now my question, can A2 be differentially heat treated? I have heard conflicting reports? After the blade has been hardened and tempered how do you soften the spine? What are the pros and cons? I have zero experience with air hardened steel.

I enjoy making bowies, fighters, but more and more I have been trying smaller hunters because people can actually justify buying them.

Thanks

[This message has been edited by tejas7 (edited 23 October 1999).]

[This message has been edited by tejas7 (edited 23 October 1999).]

 

[Chiro75]

Sean Perkins effectively differentially hardens his knives in A-2. YOu can see the hamon or grain line. I believe he uses a clay hardening method, but he has also instructed me in the use of ice water (yes, his knives are REALLY, freakin' tough!) as an edge quench for tool steels like A2 and D2. This is a pretty destructive heat treat, though, and you could lose blades to warpage, cracking, or breaking.

------------------
My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/kydex.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html