A2 Steel - Stainless?

Hale Storm

Hale Storm

Kydex Whisperer
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
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I have a question about A2 Steel. Specifically I have a couple Bark River Goloks in A2. I live 60-70 miles from the coast here in Texas. The humidity runs about 80% most days. We go through lots of oil and tuff-glide around here for our blades. My question is on the A2. It seems very rust prone. Not serious rust but surface type rust that is easily knocked off with a little 800 grit, but rust nonetheless. I have to keep it slathered in oil to stop the rust. I have 1095 from Becker and Esee that never rust with just a quick wipe of oil on the blade after use.
It seems if I walk out in the shop with a glass of water, the A2 begins to rust.
What gives? Is mine faulty? Bad heat treat? Is A2 not really stainless or "corrosion resistant" at all. I even have Survive GSO's in CPM-3V that fair better than the A2.
 
My A2 pieces hold up well and I live in coastal nh where the humidity is about the same. I use eezox and have never had active rust. Patina? Sure, but never red stuff.

A2 is not stainless BTW, its a low chromium tool steel.
 
A2 isn't stainless, it's a high carbon steel. The Beckers and ESEEs are coated or stripped right? I imagine the satin finish bark river puts on their knives is why you're seeing rust problems as opposed to the Beckers and ESEEs. Have you considered forcing a patina?
 
A2 is a air hardening Tool steel and sometimes called a semi-stainless.

A2 has a range of 4-5 3/4% Chromium.

Possibly the heat treatment of the blade is the culprit? Perhaps you should contact bark River?
 
I have one A2 blade. It rusts in a heartbeat if not wiped and oiled daily, but that's all it needs. Mine is custom, RC ~61.
 
It might be your blade. I live just north of Houston (about 80 miles from the coast) and have no problems with my carbon blades. I just keep a little oil on them and clean after using them.
 
I had a Bravo 1 in A2, it got a patina after just fondling, A2 isnt stainless, its a HC tool steel
 
Heat treating at different temps can cause tougher, or more wear resistant blades usually at the cost of corrosion resistance. That isn't a flaw, just a choice of the maker. I'm not saying that is what is causing it in your case though obviously. Just something to think about if you get different performance from different knives with the same steel.

Try stripping the oil/wax/grease off then washing with soap and water ( not the grip naturally). When clean, make sure not to touch it with your bare hands and reapply your oil coat ( I recommend silicone actually).

If there are salts on the blade and you then put oil over it you might slow down the corrosion some but you won't stop it. We are talking about a steel that in bare condition can have a fingerprint etch itself into the surface finish of the steel in a short time.

By taking care of simple steels you can do a lot more than people most think. I have a gripless necker in 1095 I used to swim in the atlantic with. The pool too. I'd just wash it afterward, dry and apply silicone ( clear liquid from A.G.Russell's catalog).

Same thing with old rifles and old corrosive ammo. I tried just cleaning with bore cleaner at first with not much luck until I learned I had to wash the salts out. Soap and water was best. Than the regular cleaning.

It makes a difference.
 
A2 is very rust prone.

Since it's going to rust, consider forcing a patina using....just about anything acidic. Search around and read about what others have done. Since it's going to rust, you can force a patina, under your control, so that you can choose how it will rust. People have done some beautiful patterns, or you could just make it uniform.

I got sick of my A2 Bravo 1 rusting everytime I handled it without wiping it down afterwards, so I got a Bravo 1 in S35VN. No rust, after a year and a half of abuse and neglect. Just last week I was sifting for fossils in a river, wearing the Bravo 1 the whole time. I just checked it....no rust :D
 
Just keep the blade wiped down with oil after use and periodically when stored and you should be fine.
 
Thanks for all the replies. More ducation for me and now I know it's not my blade and merely the steel itself.
 
Hale storm, it may not be you or the steel, as stated by rhinoknives it could be the bark river heat treat. It should develop a patina and if wiped off after use and oiled regularly it should stay rust free.
 
I love my Ron Flaherty model 1 A2 in every aspect except the surface rust. It rusts if you just look at it! That just comes with the tool steel.
 
I live on the gulf coast less than a 1/4 from the water, 80% humidity + is real common. All my A2 is either very early Bark River prototypes or Blackjack, same makers ultimately. A good buffing with Flitz leaves a very protective finish. After use I hit them with Marine Tuff-Glide. When not in use for extended periods they are put up with a good coating of mineral oil. I have had no rust problems. All my knives that have been buffed out with Flitz, even after rust spots, have never had any problems afterwards. If the knife is used hard in contact with corrosive stuff I hit it with a Flitz buff again. The Flitz can be a little pricey but it works really well. My quart can of it should last a lifetime. Great on plastic and other surfaces also.
 
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