A2 Vs D2 - A Question

J

JDBLADE

Joined
Dec 8, 2003
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A question for all you steel knuts out there. When you get down to real nitty gritty is there a significant difference in these 2 steels for a small general purpose blade heat treated to HRC60. D2 in the form I want it is getting harder to procure here in Oz and to purchase from the US there is a definite price advantage in using A2. Leaving all the other properties aside when you get down to basics would I lose any significant edge retention in moving to A2.

Thanking you in advance for your responses.
 
D2 is a semistainless steel,it will stain or get a 'patina'.It has higher wear resistance because of higher carbon content. A2 will stain and rust if not taken care of, and will be a bit tougher. A significant difference in edge retention ? Idon't think you'll find much difference.
 
A2 will take a little finer edge than the D2, and be a little tougher. D2 takes a little toothier edge. D2, depending on manufacturer, can be very close to stainless. A2, will require more care. I prefer A2, but like D2 a lot too.
 
Both D2 and A2 are good steels. In my experience, both can be sharpened to about the same level, which is very sharp indeed. Just try any new Dozier and you'll see what I mean about D2. Both hold an edge well, about the same really for all practical purposes. A2 is tougher, but in a smaller blade you won't notice the difference I suspect. A2 does rust easier, but it does not pit and can be cleaned more easily than a pitted D2 blade. To my mind, you'd have an excellent knife if made of either steel (blade geometry, heat treat, edge bevel being the same of course).
 
D2 holds an edge significantly longer than A2. This is more conspicuous if D2 is harder than A2. If both are hardened to 60 RC it may not be a critical difference. A2 has about half the chrome of D2 and takes on a patina much more easily. This may be an issue to you. I would make equivalent blades out of both alloys and do comparisons. If you are selling your output I would put some extra effort into your sharpening process with A2. It will be easier to do and you can deliver a particularly impressive edge on your product. This might quiet people who complain about a switch from D2.
 
Jeff Clark :

This might quiet people who complain about a switch from D2.
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A2 is significantly tougher and easier to work, so it is not all a loss. It should also be cheaper to make knives from.

-Cliff
 
They are both very good steels. My experience is a little different. I found that A2 holds an edge longer, the only way I could really tell however, was by doing side by side cutting with both knives. Both blades are 60 RC and pretty similar in size and shape. So, I would say no to your question.
 
Yes, I would tend to disagree with the statement that, "D2 holds an edge significantly longer than A2", and I'm sure R.J. Martin might agree with me too. If D2 holds an edge longer than A2, I'm sure the difference is nominal, at best. With both steels at a Rockwell of 60, both would be great edge holders.
 
I have a Gene Ingram blade in A2 that I have used on camping trips for among other things, food preparation. It has been stained,(damn those lime and tequila shots). I don't really mind the stain, I think it adds character. However, if I should want to remove it or cover it what are my options?
 
The wear resistance of D2 is significantly ahead of A2 and thus on some materials D2 would have a significant advantage, both with optimal heat treating of course. However the edge holding could be in A2's favor if the cutting was tough as A2 is more durable, or it could be insignificant on some materials as long as the hardness is similar as rolling and not wear could be the major cause of blunting. D2 can also be hardened slightly more so than A2 which would give it an advantage in those areas.

-Cliff
 
Both are great knife steels, and the major difference I can see is that A-2 might take a minute or so quicker to sharpen on my EdgePro. Most guys wouldn't see any difference IMHO.
 
The wear resistance of D2 is significantly ahead of A2 and thus on some materials D2 would have a significant advantage, both with optimal heat treating of course. However the edge holding could be in A2's favor if the cutting was tough as A2 is more durable, or it could be insignificant on some materials as long as the hardness is similar as rolling and not wear could be the major cause of blunting. D2 can also be hardened slightly more so than A2 which would give it an advantage in those areas
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Cliff,
I know that you can be long-winded at times (at least it seems so to us simpletons), but what the hell are you rambling on about? My question was is there any way to diminish the stains that A2 so commonly takes?

Your info on A2 and D2 is right on and accurate, but it's already been discussed.

So, do you have any thoughts on the staining of carbon steels?
 
I used both quite a bit in the 80's. I settled on a
distinct preference for A-2. At the same hardness level
D-2 held an edge somewhat longer, and did not rust or
develop a patina as easily as A-2. A-2 took a better edge
and was more easily re-sharpened.

As far as toughness goes, I found A-2 to be quite a
bit tougher in actual use than D-2, and have continued to
use it for large knives. I've been satisfied enough with
its performance that I have used only A-2 and ATS-34 for
several years, and have only recently decided to try 5160
for a large knife, based on reviews by Cliff Stamp and
others.

While toughness may not be an issue with a smaller
knife, I think that you will be pleased with the edge and
ease of re-sharpening that A-2 shows. It really does not
require that much care anyway. It's easy to clean off.
 
Thankyou all for your comments. It seems that there is a cost and time saving advantage in using A2 over D2 with very little loss in performance so I think I will give it a go.
 
Originally posted by Matteo Escobar
I have a Gene Ingram blade in A2 that I have used on camping trips for among other things, food preparation. It has been stained,(damn those lime and tequila shots). I don't really mind the stain, I think it adds character. However, if I should want to remove it or cover it what are my options?
Click to expand...

It depends on what surface finish the blade has now, and whether you think having the entire surface of both faces finished equally is important. I say this because most things that I have found that will definitely clean up nasty bits of carbon steel also leave some surface character. I'm talking about power scotchbrite, wire wheels, etc.

My stock answer for using knives is a belt of superfine Scotchbrite (the grey stuff) on a belt sander. I usually just do both sides, leaving a new across-the-blade satin finish. But if your blade has a polished, blasted, or hand-finished surface that you'd like to preserve, this is not your answer.

Have you tried asking the maker?
 
Matteo Escobar :

My question was ...
Click to expand...

My post was a responce to comments made by Db and Dando, not to your post.

If your blade is stained you can remove the oxidation by abrasion (sandpaper) or chemical reduction (flitz or other rust removers).

-Cliff
 
Then I will respond. My post refered to the original question of significant edge difference between A2 and D2 at HRC 60. In my expience he will not. Now I do agree if one is harder or softer sure there can be a difference, but he asked about both at RC 60. Sure it does matter what you cut but for the most part I notice none. Then again If I was cubeing salt licks all day I wouldn't pick either one.
 
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