A2?

T

These_Nutz

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I just bought a BRKT Bravo 1 ive never used A2 bfore.
The question is what sort of maintence does it require?.
I have a 52100 Mule that has rusted from just finger prints its now got that much oil on it i can hardly use it.It rusted after just a wipe down with a cloth.
Ive got that sweat that rust anything in school we all made some metal thing next week mine was the only covered in rust from tip to toe my sweat is knife persons knightmare.
Back to the point would just a wipe down after use be enough to prevent rust?.Patinas are one thing but God i hate rust.
Also the handle worries me that the spine is exposed will i be fine rubbing this down or will i need oil to?.
Thanks for any info you can give.
 
A2 will readily rust too, but I like it as a cutlery steel.

Cut some citrus with it and let it get started on a patina. A light coat of oil when you store it will help so will butchers wax or Ren. Wax.
 
most everything i ever needed to use a knife for, was done with a stainless steel knife. the only time i will take a carbon steel knife with me, is when i feel extra toughness may be required.
 
A2 is great steel. I have the Bravo 1 and use it all the time. I find it very easy to maintain, yes it will rust, but only if you give it no care. Clean and dry after use and if need be touch it up with some 1200 wet and dry. Mine has a nice patina to it now.

Bark Rivers A2 is very good stuff.
 
A-2 steel is very good and will not rust "readily".... (readily being used in the relative sense). Take care of it as you would any other steel.

I don;t know if Bark River's A-2 steel is better than anyone else's or not, and I suspect that very few other know either. I have no complaints about Bark River's A-2 or 12C27.
 
StretchNM said:
A-2 steel is very good and will not rust "readily".... (readily being used in the relative sense). Take care of it as you would any other steel.

I don;t know if Bark River's A-2 steel is better than anyone else's or not, and I suspect that very few other know either. I have no complaints about Bark River's A-2 or 12C27.
Click to expand...

I have a PSK 12c27 and its unreal steal i dont maintain it it sharpens so sharp ive whitled hairs the only problem ive had with it was it looses an edge quickly and micro chips but they sharpen out with one or two small sheets of paper.
I hope i just dont have to cover such a good knife in stinking oil contaminating anything it touches.I hope a wipe down clean every use should be enough.
Thanks for the info and what a blade i was holding out for a gunner for EDC but i could wait no longer and im surprised at how compact it is you could EDC it,just.
 
I didn't address maintenance, but then, I'm a knife owner and user, not an expert or metalurgist.

The only problem I've ever had with BRKT's A-2 was on a mini-Canadian that I left in a leather sheath for more than six months. The blade face began to pit. I buffed it off with a muslim wheel and a little white rouge which, unfortunately, buffed off most of the BRKT logo too. The spine has a few tiny pits, all at the very edge where the spine and handle scales meet. Overall, none of this bothers me as this, nor any other of my Barkies, are collectors - they're users.

By the way, this little mini-Canadian with its A2 steel competes with a Helle Symfoni scandi-ground stainless for the sharpest knife in my collection. When I say sharp, I mean sharp.

The leather sheath I left the mini in was one of my own makings. I have recently read on this forum the very good idea of treating the inside of the sheath with minieral oil or other "waterproofing" waxes. This should help and from now on every sheath I make for a carbon blade will be treated with mineral oil on the inside just before I close, glue, and sew it closed.
 
Nutz,

Try using mineral oil. It is very cheap and can be found in most stores in the medicine area. It is also non-toxic and edible so it won't contaminate what you're cutting. A2 is great stuff, just wipe it down with the mineral oil after use and it will be OK. I used to have very acidic hands also and learned to wipe things down before putting them up.
 
I'll second that mineral oil tip. Also, I run a small bead of Semichrome or Flitz metal polish on the back of an old computer mouse pad and drag the entire knife edge over it, alternating sides. Do this before the edge shows any sign of dullness and you can maintain it razor sharp. If it needs 'help', try 1,200-1,500 grit SiC w/d paper on that pad in place of the polish.

My experience with Mike Stewart and Bark River has been top drawer. If you are displeased with the finish on the Bravo, you can send it back anytime for the cost of your shipping to them. It'll come back looking like new. The mineral oil will keep it that way.

Stainz
 
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