So as far as I can figure so far, annealing means to rid the blade of any old curvatures from previous usage, like old leaf springs is this correct? And is this a necessary step in all blade making? Or just pieces of metal that were out of line when you begin working on it?
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
About annealing
- Thread starter Indora
- Start date
Busto
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2011
- Messages
- 4,217
Annealing is the direct opposite of Hardening. You anneal to soften the metal to make it more workable. Yes annealing a leaf spring will allow you to correct any bends. Blade material purchased as annealed does not require this however unknown scrap material may require this treatment to make it workable.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 37,769
Annealing is making the structure in the steel a soft pearlite condition. This allows easier straightening, filing, drilling, grinding, etc..
Fully annealed steel is in the best condition for working it.
After the blade has been shaped to its pre-HT shape, the steel should be normalized before HT. Even though the steel was soft in its annealed state, it may have been in the super-annealed state called spheroidal annealed. This is when all the iron carbides are in bundles and balls in a matric of soft iron. Many commercial pre-annealed steel bars come this way. That structure to be broken up into coarse pearlite before HT, or it may not harden fully. The metallurgy stick has lots of info on all the steps in Thing a blade.
While "found" steel like leaf springs and old farm equipment can make good blades, they also have issues that a novice may not know about or be able to deal with. It is far better in the beginning to buy steel bars from a knife supplier or knife steel provider. Luckily, we have lots of good suppliers.
Fill out your profile so we know where you are and a bit about you. That will help with better suggestions of sources, and maybe offers of materials and help in learning.
Fully annealed steel is in the best condition for working it.
After the blade has been shaped to its pre-HT shape, the steel should be normalized before HT. Even though the steel was soft in its annealed state, it may have been in the super-annealed state called spheroidal annealed. This is when all the iron carbides are in bundles and balls in a matric of soft iron. Many commercial pre-annealed steel bars come this way. That structure to be broken up into coarse pearlite before HT, or it may not harden fully. The metallurgy stick has lots of info on all the steps in Thing a blade.
While "found" steel like leaf springs and old farm equipment can make good blades, they also have issues that a novice may not know about or be able to deal with. It is far better in the beginning to buy steel bars from a knife supplier or knife steel provider. Luckily, we have lots of good suppliers.
Fill out your profile so we know where you are and a bit about you. That will help with better suggestions of sources, and maybe offers of materials and help in learning.
Larrin
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2004
- Messages
- 4,984
There is nothing wrong with a spheroidize anneal as long as temperatures and soak times are correct during austenitizing. And if your temperature and soak time is off your heat treatment likely isn't any good anyway.
Wow that was a pretty insightful post, yeah I plan on starting soon, I need a work area first and to set up a forge. I knew I had the right idea though, that until I get used to working with the metal I should buy steel from suppliers and work on that first. Another question, is it better to precut the metal and then do grinding and treatment on it afterwards? Or is it better to "work" it out into the right shape, and does working the metal out make a stronger or sturdier blade? If I'm being honest I'd like blades that are flexible in toughness without being too soft, but definitely not brittle, I think I'd like to work with 5160 and 9260 and perhaps 1060 as well when I get started that is. I'll fill out more information soon.