About Knife Tolerances...

[The Guy]

I'm pretty new to the higher end of the knife collecting game, and I am admittedly hyper-aware of any "imperfections" a knife may seem to have after having a bad experience with a Protech x Ferrum Forge Mordax from Drop. I was curious about what you all would consider being an imperfection in a knife. Where is the line between a normal machining "imperfection" that is standard in the manufacturing process and attributable to CNC tolerances, versus an actual issue?

 

[Alsharif]

It varies from person to person. The more you are engrossed into this hobby, the more you'll be able to notice flaws and that may trigger dissatisfaction. You'll also develop your own preferences and taste for design and execution. As with anything, there's a bell curve when it comes to what you get per dollar spent, and it tapers out differently to different people - depending on what you value and what you're willing to spend.

I used to see there being no point in a knife costing more than $200 as that was the upper limit of what I thought I can reasonably spend for the quality, and tolerances, I wanted. The more I experienced knives and appreciated the details, the more I was able to justify a higher price point for the perfection I pursued.

 

[steelhead seeker]

Ask about the particular knife and see what others say. Post pics of yours and ask if it's normal. If everyone else has the same "machining" marks then it is normal for that knife to have it and not an imperfection even if it bothers you. Obviously things like chips in scales or blade are imperfections...if I found something like "machining" marks that put me off I'd first find out if its normal for that knife to have them..

 

[Ruari]

 

[The Guy]

That's very true! I recently got a Spydiechef, and I love the knife, but my only frame of reference for a $200+ knife is a Mordax I got from Drop with several significant issues, so I'm not quite sure what is "in spec" for a knife of this price bracket!

 

[The Guy]

It varies from person to person. The more you are engrossed into this hobby, the more you'll be able to notice flaws and that may trigger dissatisfaction. You'll also develop your own preferences and taste for design and execution. As with anything, there's a bell curve when it comes to what you get per dollar spent, and it tapers out differently to different people - depending on what you value and what you're willing to spend.

I used to see there being no point in a knife costing more than $200 as that was the upper limit of what I thought I can reasonably spend for the quality, and tolerances, I wanted. The more I experienced knives and appreciated the details, the more I was able to justify a higher price point for the perfection I pursued.

The increase in quality is definitely apparent as I have gone up the pricing ladder. I've very recently moved away from the ~$100 price bracket by grabbing a Spydiechef, which is a knife I have had my eye on for some time now. I'm just sort of trying to feel out what "in spec" looks like for a knife of this price since the only other knife I have had in this price range ended up being returned over some real issues.

 

[Retired UPS Driver]

The increase in quality is definitely apparent as I have gone up the pricing ladder. I've very recently moved away from the ~$100 price bracket by grabbing a Spydiechef, which is a knife I have had my eye on for some time now. I'm just sort of trying to feel out what "in spec" looks like for a knife of this price since the only other knife I have had in this price range ended up being returned over some real issues.

You could also ask this question over in the Spyderco forum here and include some very clear photos of the issues you’re inquiring about. Even the man himself Sal may post a reply if he feels it is warranted.
https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/spyderco.726/

 

[jideta]

I think today it is easy to machine parts to exact specifications so tolerances should be held to higher standards no matter the price.
In fact I have seen inexpensive knives exhibit close tolerances compared to some more expensive models and I take my knives apart all the time.
The difference IMO, is in the assembly of the parts.
Your knife may have been assembled on a Monday morning by someone with a raging hangover or by a fatigued worker late Friday afternoon. This goes for any knife that is 'mass produced' regardless of price.
You pay more for that individual assembly and attention to fit and finish, whether mid tech or handmade so I think in this price range flaws are unacceptable.
The caveat may be that every company is different and the line of what is 'commercially acceptable' might be quite wide even for mid tech and handmade. This is where a reputation is made or broken.
Ultimately though, you the consumer decide what is acceptable and what isn't regardless of whether it was $1 or a $1000.

 

[GatorFlash1]

To me a knife is a tool, not a museum piece. As long as it does what it was intended for the tolerances are okay. I edc a GB1 that was reasonably priced and has everything I need from a pocket knife. I would not pay more to have have it with engraved parts, with elephant ivory scales, hand made from Martian steel on Pluto by oversized women, etc.

 

[comis]

Uneven or poor grind
Uneven geometry
Significant side to side play, or worse, up and down play
Lock up way too early or lock creep
Flipper don't flip
Poor Heat Treat

These are some of the issues I see as 'imperfection'. Of course, I would treat a $40 dollar knife differently from a $400 knife. But then if a $40 knife don't have these kind of issues, I would expect $400 shouldn't have it either.

 

[sharp_edge]

This is how I see it (assuming we are talking about brand new folding knives from factories/dealers), from the worst to the least concerned:

-----------Defects start here (meaning I will definitely return for a refund or exchange)--------------
- Cracked blade or handle
- The lock does not engage properly
- The materials are not what's claimed to be, including way off chart HRC (although these are difficult to tell without using the knife)
- Up and down blade play when locked
- Deep scratches or dings on the blade or the handle
- Detent rock when closed
- Missing screws

------- imperfections start here (meaning I may choose not to return for a refund or exchange) ----------
- Off-centered blade but not rubbing the scale
- Slight side to side blade play
- Asymmetrically ground bevels