? About Microtech Bead Blasted Blades

USAFSP

USAFSP

Joined
Jul 2, 2000
Messages
2,357
I have been carrying an LCC on and off as an EDC for 2 weeks now, and I have not had any problems with rust on the BB finish (knock on wood).:) I am curious if MT does thier BB different than the rest of the makers out there? I wiped the blade down with tuf-cloth before carrying it the first time, but not since then. Is MT's BB superior to the others? Am I just lucky? What's the deal?
 
It feels a lot smoother than the bead blasting on CRKT knives. I don't know what kind of effect that has. And if you touch the blade with your fingers, you can see a spot on it where your fingers were, whereas I don't see any spots after touching other bead blasted blades (can you say that five times fast??). My LCC has no rust to speak of, while my CRKT's have had a few rust spots. I don't know, I would be very interested to find out.
 
I think your use of the Tuf-cloth has alot to do with it. I've found it to be very effective.
 
Yeah, it does appear to have a very fine finish to it as opposed to some others out there. I had a BM 970, and you could pitch a tent between the nooks and crannies of that finish. I have also noticed the CRKT knives appear to have a rougher appearence. I figure a wipe down with Tuf-Cloth every 2 weeks or so will keep the rust away. When I am on duty I do sweat quite a bit on hot days. No problems with the knife yet. I just can't figure out why everyone has such problems with the BB blades. I sold a freind of mine a SOCOM Elite with a BB finish and he carries that knife everywhere. He is quite overweight and does sweat alot. He never put any oil on the blade, and it took a whole month for it to show any rust. I then polished the rust off with some Metal Glow for him, and it was fine again. If I know I am going to go fishing or be around salt water I will just wipe it down again with Tuf-Cloth. What do you guys think?
 
So you decided to go back to the LCC? Is it the auto? and if so, Have you figured a way to operate it left-handed? Just curious...

DD
 
It's a funny thing you would ask me about my LCC/L-UDT dillema. I bought the L-UDT instead of the DA/LCC. I sat in the Knifecenter.com wearhouse for 5 minutes trying to find a way to manipulate the bolster. To be comfortable with it you would have to be double jointed. What a nightnmare. I then traded the L-UDT for a double edged MOD CQD. Then I made a multi trade for the LCC. I guess I'm a tradeaholic. I have had 4 LCC MA's. I like them alot. I would have held onto the other LCC's but the first one was duped from me by my LT for $120. The second one went to a friend. The third one was traded away, and now I have this one. I will keep it though. I'm actually thinking about getting one with a black blade next. I also just bought a small Sebenza. I think I am going to shelve that one for the collection. If I misplace the LCC I will be upset, but if I misplace the Sebenza I will have a stroke. I'm sure all of you know what I mean.
 
Sorry, but I must laugh when you compare MTs to CRKT knives. Though CRKT does make some fine knives, MicroTechs are simply wonderful! Enjoy your LCC. I love mine!

S
 
I carry my LCC D/A almost every day. I have one with the black blade. I think the coating will prevent rust much better than pretty much anything. As long as you keep Tuf-Cloth on your's I don't think that would be a problem either. I also carry mine in the sheath, which keeps it away from the sweat too.

If I get an auto for my lefty brothers, I will probably stick with a button release:). Most of those are easy enough to operate. Good luck.

DD
 
spade
I think he is comparing diff. manufacturers
bb finish only. Although type of steel does make a
diff.


IMHO the finer bb finish is the more rust resistant
it is. I think it is because of this rougher surface
that more water,grease,glue,sweat or what ever gets
trapped on it. There for making cleaning more difficult.

I have knives with the same steels and with these
different bb finishes and the rougher bb does spot more
and require more exstensive cleaning. But once some of
the rough bb finish wore off the blade became more rust
resistant and yet still kept a finer bb finish.

Aside from making the blade so that finger prints from
handling would not be "seen" I see no other reason for
such rough bb. Maybe its cheaper.
 
Bead (glass) blast or sandblast? There is a difference in its finished state. I believe bead blasting results in a "peening" of the surface, much like the way a golf ball appears. The use of sand, which is more economical to use, may leave a "gouged" texture. Consequently, corrosion may set in much quicker. I' m sure makers can explain this in more detail.

Nakano
 
Sand blasting takes off metal, as does bead blasting. bead blasting kinda smooshes the pores over, closing them similiar to a buffed mirror polish. Also, when you bead blast a blade, it should be cleaned before and after, and oiled after, as whatever touches the bead blast will stay in. quality of the blade steel and HT affects rust. Ats-34 tempered at 900 is more prone to rust, but has better rust resistance at 350 temper, both yield the same rockwell. sand blasting can make knives rust more becasue the pores in the steel are open more and will trap gunk, where as bead blasing smooshes over the pores, closing them and making the surface slicker and smoother than a sand blasted surface. I makde a 1095 knife for a guy in FL, and bead blasted it yet and it hasn't rusted yet to my knowlewdge.
 
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