I initially sharpened mine to 30 degrees inclusive on an EP, went through my 240-600 grit silicon carbide stones which did well, then it took a long time to polish it up with finer Aluminum oxide and 1500 grit ceramic, they just barely cut, and take forever to grind the burr down. Finally power strop on a leather belt loaded with green compound on a 1x30 belt sander which leaves a nice micro-convex bevel. First sharpening ended up having too much burr left after I was certain I had ground it down, and it rolled over dull after just a few light tasks. After I got it right it was very sharp, but didn't hold it as long as I thought it would, didn't wear the edge, but seemed to roll in spots the "bright lines and spots" when looking at the edge under a light. Seems to behave and sharpen like S30V(although much slower to sharpen or wear), great working edge holding, OK fine edge, will get plenty sharp, burr builds easy, but tough to grind and shape well, doesn't take a fine polish well.
I ended up going to a simpler "working edge" of 35 inclusive and stopping after the 400 grit SiC stone(grinding the burr down with only 3 or 4 passes against the edge, then flipping), power stropping to smooth it out and shape the burr, and it is MUCH better than the fine edge. It bites into harder materials like zip-ties, still slices paper and cardboard as well as the polished edge, and seems far more resistant to edge damage. On some thin hollow ground edges I can tell the difference, but the FFG Manix2 is relatively thick behind the edge, which is the real limitation on how well it slices, but it's a tough little folder, and IMO better suited to a tougher toothier working edge that will stay sharp for a really long time.
