Absolute Newbie - Belt Grinder advice

Slack belt grinding is not the way most people do it. That said, the disc is handy.
Can you make a knife with it? Sure. You can also make a knife with files.
What have you started with?
What's your goal for style of grinds? (E.g big hollows on a large contact wheel vs flat grinds on a platen and disc.)

Grizzly or Kalamazoo are a better choice for a ~$500 budget. The contact wheel and larger belt surface are core principles, but the motor quality also makes a big difference.

The MultitoolUSA also looks decent (especially if you want the disc), but haven't heard any first-hand accounts of them.

Coote is a great choice if you know how to scrounge up/wire a motor.

None of these will get you serious metal-hogging power or variable speed control within your budget without some careful planning and tinkering, but you can definitely learn to make knives on them.
 
JacksonKnives said:
Slack belt grinding is not the way most people do it. That said, the disc is handy.
Can you make a knife with it? Sure. You can also make a knife with files.
What have you started with?
What's your goal for style of grinds? (E.g big hollows on a large contact wheel vs flat grinds on a platen and disc.)

Grizzly or Kalamazoo are a better choice for a ~$500 budget. The contact wheel and larger belt surface are core principles, but the motor quality also makes a big difference.

The MultitoolUSA also looks decent (especially if you want the disc), but haven't heard any first-hand accounts of them.

Coote is a great choice if you know how to scrounge up/wire a motor.

None of these will get you serious metal-hogging power or variable speed control within your budget without some careful planning and tinkering, but you can definitely learn to make knives on them.
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Thanks for the reply. Slack grinding is grinding without the platen, correct?

If so, the grinder I linked in the OP has a platen. You may have just over looked that. (Not trying to sound sarcastic or anything)
 
You aren't going to get the best gear for your money out of Home Depot. Specialization makes a difference, in much the same way you would get better specific advice from combing the Maker's forum versus in General. I am not a big fan of combo tools in general, if you want a belt sander, get a belt sander--the disc could be a benefit, but would you rather have a better belt sander without a disc? It's an additional fail point and something to watch out for in operation, and I use belt a whole lot more than I use disc. If $500 isn't a lot of money to you then it can't hurt, though or the money I would get a Grizzly. I look upon them with lust in my heart, but I am an amateur using a vertical 1" belt sander from Harbor Freight that cost me about $60. I rarely hog out too much metal too fast with it, that's for sure. So go higher end for a better tool than Home Depot carries, or go low end to experiment with the functionality of the tool before you go all in.
 
ashwinearl said:
Don't rule out starting with a hand-filing jig (google Gough Jig) and some good files. You can hog off some material with nice flat bevels with one of these.
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Above is a great point, IMO. The Gough Jig is pretty damn useful for your first knives.

If you're stuck on the 2x42 I'd go with the Dayton / Norse / Craftsman / Palmgren variety. Should be able to get it from granger for under $200. If you have more money some of the options by J JacksonKnives are better for sure.
 
For $500 just save a few more $ for shipping and get an Oregon knife grinder. Scrounge a used motor and you will have to live with single speed. But you will have a fully functional legitimate 2x72 grinder you can have and grow for a lifetime
 
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For $450 I built this 2x48 grinder with variable speed. It cost me $100 to run a subpanel in my garage and wire a 240v outlet. I make small slipjoints, hence the split belt. I can run a 2" belt when flattening handle material, but that is the only time I run a 2" belt.
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People will tell you you can get a lot more grinder for a little bit more than $450. And it is true. I just don't need it for what I do. But if I do later on, it won't cost much to rebuild it. I doubt I will ever do it though.
 
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Nice build randy, but I have to disagree on it being sufficient for more than the minimum use of knifemaking. Eventually, most every knifemaker will want to be able to change tool arms from a contact wheel to a flat platen. Small wheel arms will likely become useful. If you start with a grinder that has changeable arms and platens, you can grow.

If you never need more than a small flat platen like your grinder has, then it will be fine as is, but if and when you need more, you would have to nearly make a new grinder to convert it.
Best for a new maker on a budget to start with a changeable arm type like the OBM or similar type.
 
jkm628 said:
Thanks for all the insight. I have decided to get a 2x72 chassis from Oregon Blade Makers and get a 2hp motor and VFD. Definitely more $$$ than i intended on spending, but after some consideration I decided to just buy once, cry once.
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Congrats on your purchase! I am also a newbie, about to order a Pheer. Post your thoughts and pictures on the OBM once you get it. From everything I read from nice folks here on the forum, buy once cry once is applicable when talking about grinders. Or, build one, of course.
 
jkm628 said:
Thanks for all the insight. I have decided to get a 2x72 chassis from Oregon Blade Makers and get a 2hp motor and VFD. Definitely more $$$ than i intended on spending, but after some consideration I decided to just buy once, cry once.
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Buy once & Cry once is my life motto !! Buy the best you can afford instead of crying every time you use it! Darn piece of Blah Blah!:D Now! When you order belts, you want to double your grit in a progression .. I buy in Ceramic belts. 36 gritfor heavy fast removal! 60 grit to even and clean it up! If it’s a 1/16 or 3/32” of Steel I just start with a 60 G... then 120 Ceramic to refine, and then A/O 220 grit- 400.. you will figure what works best for you from here, :thumbsup: Stay Safe & Have Fun!
 
@randy - that's a clean looking grinder. Good job. You mentioned running 220vac to shop, that duplex recept shown, is that 220 plugs on left side with 120 vac plugs on right side? That Chinese VFD looks just like 2 VFDs I've got in my shop. They surely do work good and so easy to setup.
 
Good eyes Ken. The unused plugs are deffinitely a NEMA 5 series. Because the power switch appears to be a DPST, it is probably 220V going to the VFD.
I hope he isn't using Nema 5 plugs and sockets (120V) as jury-rig replacements for a proper Nema 6 series (250V). That would be a disaster if someone plugs a 120V tool into the socket.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Good eyes Ken. The unused plugs are deffinitely a NEMA 5 series. Because the power switch appears to be a DPST, it is probably 220V going to the VFD.
I hope he isn't using Nema 5 plugs and sockets (120V) as jury-rig replacements for a proper Nema 6 series (250V). That would be a disaster if someone plugs a 120V tool into the socket.
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Looks like 120v for those 4 plugs on left side of grinder and 220v is on the far right side of grinder.
 
Lol. The duplex receptacle I put in is 120v on a 20amp breaker. I used a duplex receptacle to avoid having to use a power strip and cluttering up my workspace. It powers my drill press, portaband, buffer, and heat treating oven. The 240v is on the right, and is what is powering the grinder. It is old pictures, I have added a spark shield in front of the top tracking wheel, and have redone the vfd box. The vfd and switch are separated (for safety since contacts on the switch are exposed, dont want to poke around on vfd near exposed contacts), and are mounted under the bench to save work space.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Nice build randy, but I have to disagree on it being sufficient for more than the minimum use of knifemaking. Eventually, most every knifemaker will want to be able to change tool arms from a contact wheel to a flat platen. Small wheel arms will likely become useful. If you start with a grinder that has changeable arms and platens, you can grow.

If you never need more than a small flat platen like your grinder has, then it will be fine as is, but if and when you need more, you would have to nearly make a new grinder to convert it.
Best for a new maker on a budget to start with a changeable arm type like the OBM or similar type.
Click to expand...

I agree. There is a butt for every seat. I like the small footprint in my tiny garage shop. It works for me, probably wouldn't for most.
 
Busto said:
Looks like 120v for those 4 plugs on left side of grinder and 220v is on the far right side of grinder.
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Darn, I didn't even see that plug to the right. Randy has confirmed that's the 240 vac plug for the grinder so I was worried about nothing.
 
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