Acceptable Minimum Performance

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me2

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Oct 11, 2003
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Do any of you have an acceptable minimum for performance that you use as a cut-off for knives? I have tested most of my knives on cardboard and found that even the lowly (in terms of blade steel and expense) will make about 700 cuts in cardboard on the same 1" section of blade and still shave hair. This is with a polished edge off a 1x30 sander and leather belt w/ white compound. My Random Task (how I miss it) was over 1000 with the edge off the medium Sharpmaker stones. I have some kitchen knives that won't make 20 cuts, and some that make near 100, with chinese made mystery stainless off the Sharpmaker mediums. The lower cut numbers are so thin (1/32" spine with hollow ground edge) that it doesnt really matter how sharp they are, they will still cut food easily.
 
We have such a great selection of knives and steels that we can all be a bit snobbish every now and again.

In my early non-knife days, I used and carried some cheap Maxum folders and of course they didn't keep their edges like better knives, but (and there's always a but), they continued to easily cut most of the things I needed to cut, including fertilizer bags, nylon cord, packages and even some carpet. I also could have cut up some wood, but that's when I began missing a sharpener. Same with cutting clothing or leather. Still, there are a million places to sharpen knives, too, including smooth creekbed rocks.

That said, I cannot recommend these knives because there are just so many better ones. But to answer your question, I've pretty much settled on the Cold Steel Voyager line and carry a Gunsite 5-inch, which I think is an astounding knife.

I also like folders with strong locks, which is where the el cheapo Chinese really suffer. And though there are some good linerlocks available, I just don't like them.

A good AUS8 double grind blade in a strong lockback or framelock frame is where I usually am, but I buy better ones if they strike my fancy.
 
me2 said:
Do any of you have an acceptable minimum for performance that you use as a cut-off for knives? I have tested most of my knives on cardboard and found that even the lowly (in terms of blade steel and expense) will make about 700 cuts in cardboard on the same 1" section of blade and still shave hair. This is with a polished edge off a 1x30 sander and leather belt w/ white compound. My Random Task (how I miss it) was over 1000 with the edge off the medium Sharpmaker stones. I have some kitchen knives that won't make 20 cuts, and some that make near 100, with chinese made mystery stainless off the Sharpmaker mediums. The lower cut numbers are so thin (1/32" spine with hollow ground edge) that it doesnt really matter how sharp they are, they will still cut food easily.
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Hi,

While we tend to get hung up on the steel used for making knife blades, (hey we ARE knife-knuts). The only thing that is really required is that they are harder than what you are trying to cut. And that the edge lasts long enough to get the job done. Anything else is either just gravy or a desire for bragging rights.

While I like high carbon steel blades in my slippies, to be brutally honest, the best steel with the finest heat treat will not slice an apple better or open an envelope or package any better than a cheap 440A blade that is properly sharpened. And face it, that's mostly what we do with them, if we let them out to play at all.

And as you've found, geometry also plays it's part. Thin knives slice well, thicker blades can take more beating.

So buy the knife that you like and has the steel you like. If it does what you need it do, then it's good steel.

dalee
 
I love my knives. I have knives with Inox, AUS6, G2, AUS8, VG-10, S30V and ZDP-189 steel. Each has a place in my heart.

That said, the fact is the vast majority of the world does its cutting with really cheap steel, and that's really all anyone probably needs.

But it's not all about need, is it?
 
I have actually come to prefer lower end (meaning not snobbish but still good) steels such as SAK steel and 1095. I find they take an edge easiest and stay plenty sharp for me. There probably isn't a day that goes by I don't touch my edc up on a stone, no matter if it is S100,000V or 420HC so I realy don't need long lasting edges. I like how inexpensive and how easily sharpenable they are. 10xx series steels (and other carbon steels) have a special place in my heart because they are carbon steel and I will chose one of them over ANY stainless any time, even though I know it will rust and won't hold an edge as long or be the fad steel of the month.
 
Thomas W said:
Oh we have this steel coming out for 2009...it's gonna be hot.:D
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I expect royalties:D. Kershaw should really think about making a traditional styled slip-joint with carbon steel, I would buy one asap. The Sandvic steel y'all use is good stuff though, that steel gets very sharp. There is a minimum level of performance I will accept. The steel has to be good and hard enough to take an edge and not act like a limp noodle when I try to cut something with it.
 
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BJE said:
I expect royalties:D. Kershaw should really think about making a traditional styled slip-joint with carbon steel, I would buy one asap. The Sandvic steel y'all use is good stuff though, that steel gets very sharp. There is a minimum level of performance I will accept. The steel has to be good and hard enough to take an edge and not act like a limp noodle when I try to cut something with it.
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Glad you like our Sandvik steel. There is a real opportunity for a copycat to use any of Sandvic, Sandvick, Scandvic, Scandvick, Scandvik to leech of our brand in the US. You would really not think it would be that difficult, but Sandvik must be really tricky in the US.

Anyway, thanks for confirming that our steel gets harder than a limp noodle. I will try to work that into our marketing somehow:D.

//Jerker
 
Razorsharp244 said:
Anyway, thanks for confirming that our steel gets harder than a limp noodle. I will try to work that into our marketing somehow:D.

//Jerker
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Great, that means more royalties right?:D Sorry for the misspell, and your steel is definately good. What I mean by "cut like a wet noodle" is that the steel is hard enough to not roll when you try to cut something.
 
I wish I did have a cut-off. I like fine-grained steels hardened to RC56 and higher (the higher the better within reason) and coarse-grained steels hardened to RC62 or higher. When I try some of Dan Maragni's 5160 hardened to RC54-55, I may have to revise my arbitrary judgements.
 
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Thomas W said:
Oh we have this steel coming out for 2009...it's gonna be hot.:D
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Hey! You told me not to talk about it, me being you're super secret tester and all! Fine, be that way! :p It's a derivative of Rosta Frei!!!! Hah!!! Now everyone knows! :D

Actually, to answer me2's question, yes. My standards keep raising as I get better and better steel. I've pretty much switched over to my Cold Steel slippies (carbon V) and Queen in their D2. My older Case and Schrades are just way too soft, and really don't stand up. I've also been spoiled by my Fallkniven TK3 in 3G, as well as Spyderco's in ZDP 189.

I still use some of the older ones, but save them for outdoors tasks and don't edc them anymore.
 
Razorsharp244 said:
Shot is coming up. I will come by with Sören, Sara (she is our new and improved Jonas) and Mike. See you there?
//Jerker
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Soren? Very nice, it be good to see him again. I also here Sara is a serious upgrade from Jonas...at least in the looks department. :D

Dinner at the Chop House again?
 
BJE said:
Great, that means more royalties right?:D Sorry for the misspell, and your steel is definately good. What I mean by "cut like a wet noodle" is that the steel is hard enough to not roll when you try to cut something.
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The royalties will be a bit of a problem I think;). About the spelling, no problem I dont mind it's common.
 
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