Accidentally sharpened flat single bevel knife.

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Aug 5, 2023
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I got a new Ajikiri, I didn't quite like the bevel angle and It was't sharp enough out of the box. So I sharpened it. Then I sharpen another knife, a petty. Then I sharpen another knife, a paring. Then I sharpen another one, a yanagiba.

The process was so repetitive I went into auto mode. The autopilot mode made me sharpened the flat side of the Yanagiba. It was 800 grit whetstone.

What should I do? Do I need to grind the bevel of the knife flat until the accidental bevel has gone and then remake the intended bevel? (it will be chores)
Or do I have better option?
 
I got a new Ajikiri, I didn't quite like the bevel angle and It was't sharp enough out of the box. So I sharpened it. Then I sharpen another knife, a petty. Then I sharpen another knife, a paring. Then I sharpen another one, a yanagiba.

The process was so repetitive I went into auto mode. The autopilot mode made me sharpened the flat side of the Yanagiba. It was 800 grit whetstone.

What should I do? Do I need to grind the bevel of the knife flat until the accidental bevel has gone and then remake the intended bevel? (it will be chores)
Or do I have better option?

Can you post a photo of the Ura (flat side) of this Yanagiba? What brand is this?
Because the Ura is not actually flat but slightly concave, I don't think you can correct the bevel you created by simply grinding down the Ura side.
Unless the bevel you unintentionally created is extremely wide, I would continue to use that knife as is. And after many sharpenings that unintended
bevel will diminish. When I sharpen my single bevel knives I run 5-10 times on the Shinogi side for 1 run on the Ura side. In my head I imagine I am simply deburring.
 
Can you post a photo of the Ura (flat side) of this Yanagiba? What brand is this?
Because the Ura is not actually flat but slightly concave, I don't think you can correct the bevel you created by simply grinding down the Ura side.
Unless the bevel you unintentionally created is extremely wide, I would continue to use that knife as is. And after many sharpenings that unintended
bevel will diminish. When I sharpen my single bevel knives I run 5-10 times on the Shinogi side for 1 run on the Ura side. In my head I imagine I am simply deburring.

I thought on posting a photo, but I didn't take it coz it is not visible on eye, or at least hard to see.
Regarding the brand, I don't know what brand this is since it was a gift, but maybe I will post a photo on the engraving so that maybe someone could help identify it.

Now, after I sharpen the shinogi side and ura side (flat on whetstone), I could still feel the burr of the shinogi sharpening. This burr could only be deburr by sharpening the ura side at the "false" angle (the accidental angle).

My thought is not to grind down the ura side, but instead the blade side (imagine slicing sashimi, but the whetstone is the sashimi block).
Then, when the blade is flat to the point that the false bevel is flatten, then I will reform the shinogi bevel.
 
I thought on posting a photo, but I didn't take it coz it is not visible on eye, or at least hard to see.
Regarding the brand, I don't know what brand this is since it was a gift, but maybe I will post a photo on the engraving so that maybe someone could help identify it.

Now, after I sharpen the shinogi side and ura side (flat on whetstone), I could still feel the burr of the shinogi sharpening. This burr could only be deburr by sharpening the ura side at the "false" angle (the accidental angle).

My thought is not to grind down the ura side, but instead the blade side (imagine slicing sashimi, but the whetstone is the sashimi block).
Then, when the blade is flat to the point that the false bevel is flatten, then I will reform the shinogi bevel.
1. Please post a clear straight on photo of the knife or logo. I can identify it for you. Also check the other side of the blade as sometimes the steel type may be engraved there depending on maker.

2. If you still feel a burr after completing the sharpening sequence on both Shinogi and Ura sides, you can completely deburr with a
Kawatogi (Leather stropping). There is no risk of over sharpening.

3. OK, I understand your approach.
 
Here is the photo, any idea?

IMG-20230808-213646-01.jpg
 
That's either an old vintage knife or a pretty obscure one.
Brand name is Manda 万田
Specially made Bessaku 別作
Special Alloy Tokushugoukin 特殊合金
Stainless ステンレス
 
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That's either an old vintage knife or a pretty obscure one.
Brand name is Manda 万田
Made by Saku 作
Specially made Bessaku 別作
Special Alloy Tokushugoukin 特殊合金
Stainless ステンレス

Wow thanks Ken, that set light on what it is.
Google returns nothing about knife on keyword Manda or 万田.
The one gave the knife to me knew nothing about knife, I guess it's just obscure one. LOL.

Regarding the steel, it rust.
I don't do much sashimi, so the Yanagiba only stick on my magnet bar all these years. It's always dry but here is humid.
My Aogami rusted fast hanging dry without oil, but this Yanagiba rust very very slow through the years but it rusts.
So, I am not quite sure which steel it is.

I guess I am too lazy to fix the Yanagiba by grinding slowly on stone.
I will just let the bevel there and I will use it that way, if I ever use it. LOL.

Thanks Ken :)
 
I got a new Ajikiri, I didn't quite like the bevel angle and It was't sharp enough out of the box. So I sharpened it. Then I sharpen another knife, a petty. Then I sharpen another knife, a paring. Then I sharpen another one, a yanagiba.

The process was so repetitive I went into auto mode. The autopilot mode made me sharpened the flat side of the Yanagiba. It was 800 grit whetstone.

What should I do? Do I need to grind the bevel of the knife flat until the accidental bevel has gone and then remake the intended bevel? (it will be chores)
Or do I have better option?

Well. I would just leave the back bevel for now. It's not the end of the world. I have a custom knife I made that looks like a chisel grind but it has a back bevel to it. Its more like a 70/30, though nothing is that precise in my knife world as I do everything by hand. As long as it wasn't some very rare and expensive handmade ceremonial knife, I wouldn't care that much.
 
the problem is that "flat side" you refer to is actually slightly concave. you need a very large dia. contact wheel to grind it properly.
 
Well. I would just leave the back bevel for now. It's not the end of the world. I have a custom knife I made that looks like a chisel grind but it has a back bevel to it. Its more like a 70/30, though nothing is that precise in my knife world as I do everything by hand. As long as it wasn't some very rare and expensive handmade ceremonial knife, I wouldn't care that much.
Yes, I will use it that way.
A little bevel couldn't hurt on a yanagiba as I don't do much sashimi.
 
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