Acetone vs Busse Coating?

nozh2002

nozh2002

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Can Acetone damage Busse blade coating?
I start using Green Rouge (Chomium Oxide) for polishing edge with pretty good results - works same as 6 microm diamonds powder but way cheaper. It stick to coating, I found that I can clean it with acetone but will it be OK in a long run with coating?

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Yes, acetone will soften the coating if left on too long. A quick rub down with acetone shouldnt be too awful bad, but why take a chance.

Anyone have a less strong alternative?
 
I would try to limit your exposure to acetone, it's not good for you.

I'm not sure what did it but some solvent had a lasting effect on me, if I come in contact with acetone or TCE or any other solvent, I loose several layers of skin. I used acetone rags for a few years untill this happened. Now it's a real bitch to clean a gun wearing rubber gloves. On the plus side, I can now say I'm allergic to cleaning.

The coating should be fairly resistant if you don't soak it, but I would try to find something less toxic.
 
OUCH! I've heard of that happening to long time artists from using Turps for so many years. One elderly artist I knew had what looked like alligator skin on her hands, constantly painful. :(
 
I'd try "Goof Off" as a remover. Does pretty well on a variety of things. I buy mine at Ace Hardware.

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Acetone will eat the coating pretty good if soaked. I would look for alternative cleaners. Chromium oxide should come off easily with soap. I use chromium oxide to strop my edges and just run it over warm water and soap to get the green color off.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
Windex, Goo Gone, alcohol, or regular soap.
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Alcohol does not work, I'll try soap and warm water later.
It is not Chromium Oxide itself but Green Rouge wich is wax based I assume so it is more wax then Chromium Oxide.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
What about mineral oil? I seem to remember hearing that you can use mineral oil to dissolve the stropping compound in for easier application to a strop. Maybe it will help take it off your blade.
 
I have a chunk of the green rouge and it says it has 'beef tallow' in it for a base. Soap and water haven't gotten it off of my Black Tiger Warden blade but I bet Acetone would. I used acetone to clean reflective prisms and found a world of other stuff it would either clean or dissolve, some good, some not so good. I wouldn't put it on a phenolic resin as that is what it is meant to dissolve.
 
I was sitting around thinking of things that might strip the coating....(I didn't have any stripper handy) so I sprayed Oven Cleaner on several coated blades. It cleaned them back to new...everything came out from between the textured coating, it looked great and no worries about damaging the coating, I had left it on some for about an hour.
 
As mentioned...WD-40 works real well and if it's not available then soap with warm water will also work.
 
ColdOne said:
What about mineral oil? I seem to remember hearing that you can use mineral oil to dissolve the stropping compound in for easier application to a strop. Maybe it will help take it off your blade.
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You have to heat the two before they will mix ,hot water will do the trick.
 
Beef tallow?

This chef says warm it above 100 deg F, and use cheap white vinegar. Test on a portion of the blade in case the acid discolors the steel.

Saturated fats are solid at room temp and liquid just a little warmer.
 
Sorry a little off the topic of blade coating...but as far as the linen micarta is concerned, will the acetone harm the micarta?

I was told once to apply the acetone using a wash cloth and to apply it by blotching it on, as this would draw out any excess oils and lighten it up. I have done this and have not noticed any adverse effects, and I didnt drench it with acetone...but what do you guys think?...could it over time cause any damage to the micarta scales?
 
Grego said:
Sorry a little off the topic of blade coating...but as far as the linen micarta is concerned, will the acetone harm the micarta?

I was told once to apply the acetone using a wash cloth and to apply it by blotching it on, as this would draw out any excess oils and lighten it up. I have done this and have not noticed any adverse effects, and I didnt drench it with acetone...but what do you guys think?...could it over time cause any damage to the micarta scales?
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Of coarse I forgot to mention that I left the acetone sit on the micarta for approximately 2 - 3 minutes and then gave it a long bath in warm water and dish soap.
 
Grego said:
Of coarse I forgot to mention that I left the acetone sit on the micarta for approximately 2 - 3 minutes and then gave it a long bath in warm water and dish soap.
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I don't know... but I'd like to see some before and after pics if you've got them.
 
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