Acid Etching Stainless Steel Question

[afishhunter]

A vid on You Tube by Filex Immler says yiu can acid etch stainless steel using the liquid or powered acid used to clean coffeemakers (among other things) using a 30% strength solution, without taking your VIC SAV apart. The acid does nor affect the aluminum or brass parts, like the acids that require taking the knife apart.
He showed a SAK (not sure which model) he had acid etched. However, I am not sure if the now matte black scales are original or aftermarket.

I loathe "mirror polished" fingerprint and smudge magnet blades. Also, I have a metal signalling mirror in my kit, so I do not need my knife's blades to double for that use.

My question:
How does that acid react with unsealed/stabilized wood covers.
(I am going to guess since bone and coffeemaker slag are both calcium, it will damage unsealed/stabilized bone and stag/horn/antler/tusk covers. I think all abalone, pearl, and other shell covers are thin sheats sealed in a clear acrylic. If not, then the acid would destroy them as well, sice they are calcium, as well.)

Would that acid affect Micarta, G-10, and pre-2004 Delrin/Staglon?
Will it dissolve Cellidor, or just give it a matte finish?
Will it give shiny acrylics like Case, (among others) uses on some knives, a matte finish?

Thanks for your input and wisdom in advance.

 

[fishface5]

I wouldn't want acid to touch any organic material, or any poly material that isn't highly acid-resistant. But an easier way to get rid of the polish on a blade is to carefully sand it. That won't look the same as an acid etch but it solves the problem and is easy to touch up if necessary.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

For a matte finish on plastics and metals, including stainless blades, just use a green Scotch-Brite pad of the variety found in the house cleaners section of the grocery store. That's what I use. Years ago, I also noticed the signal mirror-like glare from one of my high-polished blades when I used it on a very bright & sunny Texas day out on the lake fishing. Blinding glare. I didn't waste any time knocking back the mirror on that one, when I got home. Some medium or fine grit wet/dry sandpaper will also work well on hardened knife blades. For everything else like plastics, brass, nickel, unhardened stainless frames/bolsters, I usually go to the Scotch-Brite pad first.

I wouldn't risk any acid or solvent use on Victorinox's cellidor handle covers. They're very vulnerable to softening and shrinking or warping when exposed to solvents like alcohol, acetone, etc. I haven't tried anything acidic on them. But I wouldn't risk it.