Acid for Etching?

cerulean

cerulean

Joined
May 26, 1999
Messages
1,964
I recently etched a design onto a knife blade. I used the process described on Chiro75's web site, which is probably the most basic method. It just involves coating the blade with wax and carving a design into it. I used the PCB etchant from Radio Shack which consists of ferric chloride.

It turned out pretty well. You can certainly tell it was done by an amateur, but I'm pleased with the results. I think I could use a stronger acid though. I started off with a diluted mixture and eventually ended up using the ferric chloride at full strength. However, the etch is still very shallow.

So, my question is: What other acids could I use and how could I obtain them? In a past post, I remember reading about aqua regia. Has anyone used this and how do you make or where can you buy this? Are there any other acids I should look at? Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Nitric works fantastic BUT it is very dangerous. Also the resist should be asphaltum. This goop works works very well and the acid wont go through it. Nitric at 50 percent strength will etch in just a few mins.

Some use other combos of different acids. I got this tip from Hugh Bartrug . HE said that the longer the blade is in the acid the more chances you have of flaking and peeling. Well it worked for me . Just be carefull.

------------------
Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
New Web at www.darrelralph.com



[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 05-13-2000).]
 
Darrel, where do you find asphaltum varnish, or do you make your own? I've asked at art supply stores and paint stores and they don't even know what I'm talking about.
Ron

 
David Boye's book has an excellent section on acid etching. Don't have it handy, as I finally returned it to it's owner and have not yet purchased it, so I can't give you the exact formulas and methods.
 
I've got a copy of David Boye's book handy, so here goes the formulae:

For the resist, use equal parts (by weight) beeswax and powdered alphaltum. Mix the asphaltum into the melted beeswax.

For the acid he recommends Auqua Regia, which is 3 or 4 parts Hydrochloric acid to one part Nitric acid. Let it age one month.

I work in the Semiconductor industry, and I have some experience with some of the nastier acids, including Aqua Regia. Take my word for it - BE CAREFUL! BE SMART! This stuff is dangerous.

Use all the safety precautions. Work outdoors, with plenty of ventilation. Stand upwind of the acid. Have running water handy. Wear safety gear (including a face mask,) Neutralize the waste acid and dispose of it properly (not down the drain.) Your local Fire department can give some guidelines.

(Sorry for the sermon!)



------------------
Glen AKA Centaur
"If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants."
- Isaac Newton
 
Graphic Chemical 18009004583 has asphaltum
in a few different hardnesses. I used the soft to mark my blades then let is dry for a few days before I etch.
One tip Make sure you clean the blade before it goes on. ANY grease of unclean spots will allow it to bleed or peel.

After I do the design I clean all the places where the etch will be with acetone to remove smudges and oils so it will etch right.
As Stated above this stuff is very dangerous
Please use safty equiptment and be very carefull. You can burn yourself and also poison yourself with these types of nasty acids. DO not use phospheric acid . IT IS very dangerous. It will poison you if you come in contact with it. Use a resperator and all the other equiptment to cover up GET acid proof rubber gloves also.

------------------
Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
New Web at www.darrelralph.com

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top