Acid/Stonewashing?

S

stack23

Joined
Nov 3, 2013
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I've been browsing the forums and really like the look of acid/stonewashed blades and i am thinking about having it done to my Manix 2. My question is does doing so compromise the blade or function of the knife in any way? :confused:
 
Nope. Not at all.

If you didn't mask off the tang where the washers/lock ride it may make it a little less smooth but other than that it can't effect the blade other than looks.

Its simple and takes <$15 worth of supplies, why not just do it yourself?
 
It wont compromise blade integrity, but it will void your warranty....not that it usually matters, but to some it does. Like Cereal said, mask off the pivots if you do it yourself, dont let it soak more than 45min or so....I get excellent results using PCB etchant soaking for 45min and stonewashing for about 1hr.
 
No compromise of the functionality at all, IF YOU DO IT RIGHT. Here's how I did my Kershaw Scallion (see my Instagram for images @wcedc) . You take the blade off of the knife, and use nail polish to coat the places you don't want acid washed/etched. Minimally, this would be the whole pivot area (where the blade screws onto the handle, and a larger area around it where the washers on the knife are. This includes both sides of the knife, as well as the actual 'hole' the screw would go in. What you are doing is eating away metal, and you do not want to do that in the precision-crafted areas.
I used muriatic acid (for cleaning concrete patios) and let it go for about 45 minutes, moving it around occasionally to keep air bubbles away. The pattern on my blade was from a sponge.
Depending on what chemical you use, the time could range from 10 to 90 minutes. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.. Good luck!
 
My method looks to mirror others', but here you go, if interested. No noticeable compromise in functionality as long as all locking and metal-on-metal contact surfaces are adequately protected by the nail polish. I've had great luck so far with D2.

Love to see folks getting experimental!

Acid-Etching Blades via the Professor Method (No Tumbling Involved)

Please note, I do this in stages, over three to four days usually to allow ample drying times.

1. Purchase PCB Etchant Solution at Radio Shack (about $13.00)
2. Pour solution into either a plastic or glass container, enough that the entire disassembled-from-chassis blade can be submerged
3. Degrease the loose blade twice or even three times using rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth, allowing ample dry time
4. Paint the surface areas of the blade with red fingernail polish (to be highly visible) that you DO NOT want affected by the solution (I paint the edge and any parts of the tang that contact the chassis internals – lockfaces, pivot hole, etc.)
5. Allow polish to dry, paint areas again, allow to dry again (I allow drying overnight)
6. Make an “S” hook with a large paper clip, hook through pivot hole, completely submerge into solution, hooking the free end on the side of your plastic or glass container for ease of removing the blade
7. Leave submerged for EXACTLY 45 minutes
8. Remove and submerge blade immediately and fully into a container of water to neutralize the remaining acid
9. Scrub blade under running water with dishsoap and toothbrush to remove remnants of solution – rinse clean
10. Use non-acetone fingernail polish remover with paper towels to removed painted-on polish, exposing un-etched areas
11. Use 600+ grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a popsicle stick under running water (controls dust) to expose grind lines, blade holes, or any edges that you want to give the blade contrast from the polished edge/surfaces and etched surfaces
12. Etchant solution can be stored in container and re-used several times (I’ve used the same solution up to 6 times) and/or disposed of safely per the instructions on the bottle
13. Have a gin and tonic or cocktail of choice while re-assembling your knife and enjoy it for the unique beauty it now is:

EA3A738C-77C7-4B88-99BD-4357DB52B869_zpsdzg7j7x0.jpg
 
Just wanted to mention the professor's method is how I learned, I followed his exactly at first, the only thing I've changed is adjusted the times. :thumbup: thanks professor!!
 
Yeah, definitely experiment to get what you want -- I withdrew mine from the etchant every 15 minutes until the logos were gone, which was my goal. That's how I arrived at 45min for these. CK, your Spyderco GB looks great. That steel reacted very well to the etchant. I've only ever tried D2 to date, so more and less "stainless" steels probably yield varied results.
 
is there anyway to save the spyderco logo and letters on the blade if i do this myself?
 
stack23 said:
is there anyway to save the spyderco logo and letters on the blade if i do this myself?
Click to expand...

Either paint over the logos and letters to coat them against the bath, or simply dunk it for a short duration such that logos and letters are not completely etched away. Maybe check every 10 minutes to get desired effect.
 
Yes. I've heard you shouldn't use acetone based remover but it's all I had and it worked fine. One thing, DO NOT rub, instead dab and wipe AWAY from the etched parts. If you look around you can find pic's of a it etched blades that have a red hue to them, that's cause the nail polish was rubbed into the porous surface and it got stuck. I now soak my blades for 5 minutes then use Q-tip's to dab and twist the polish off the blade.


stack23 said:
is there anyway to save the spyderco logo and letters on the blade if i do this myself?
Click to expand...
You can save embossed logo's/lettering but not printed on stuff using a slightly more involved application of the same nail polish.

&#8226;Apply a few layers of polish over the logo then allow to dry for 24 hours. Do not cheat here, the polis must fully cure.
&#8226;Use a razor blade to slice off polish layer over the logo leaving the polish that has sunk down into the logo. Trim it up so its flush with the metal.

This way the polish will get down into the lettering and protect it for you. You may need toothpicks to assist in removal but it's not hard, again soak the blade in the polish remover for a few minutes before you start.
 
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