Acid Washing for Beginners

J

JDX

Joined
Mar 2, 2014
Messages
923
Hey everyone, I have a Spyderco Gayle Bradley 1 in M4 and I want to give it an acid wash. I've asked a few friends who have given me some info, and I want to know if I have everything correct.

First I need ferric chloride. I place the knife (and liners) in the solution and leave it for 5-10 minutes.

I take it out and rub it down with baking soda to neutralize the ferric chloride. Then rinse with water.


Then I stone wash it by placing it in a container with either river stones or a crushed ceramic tile and shake it for a few minutes.


My questions are:

-I assume I should avoid the area on the blade where it comes in contact with the pivot, correct?

-is ferric chloride corrosive? Should I be wearing gloves?

-I heard the fumes aren't too great to inhale but I've also heard they aren't an issue

-in all the YouTube videos on stonewashing, they make it seem like this all day affair and throw it in their dryers on repeat, but friends of mine who get paid to acid and stonewash knives say they shake it for no more than 5 minutes.


Can anyone help clarify this process for me? I tried searching the threads here and I couldn't really find the answers to my questions.

Thank you,
-John
 
Ferric chloride is very corrosive- it's an acid!
You should absolutely be wearing gloves.
Never inhale acid fumes.
Neutralize the ferric chloride by using a solution of baking soda and water-not dry baking soda.
Why do you want to screw up your knife?
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Ferric chloride is very corrosive- it's an acid!
You should absolutely be wearing gloves.
Never inhale acid fumes.
Neutralize the ferric chloride by using a solution of baking soda and water-not dry baking soda.
Why do you want to screw up your knife?
Click to expand...
No, that's why I came here, to learn the right way. No need to be condescending when I'm just trying to figure it out
 
Use the ferric chloride mixed with equal part distilled water, not straight ferric chloride.

Paint the area the pivot washers sit on the blade, the pivot hole, the lock face on the blade, and where the detent tracks on the blade, with nail polish. This protects those areas from the acid.

Pretty much everything else you mentioned was correct. Just be patient and don't rush yourself.
 
It will change tolerances on the knife
that will affect fitment if certain areas are not protected.
Different steels react differently.
Some need a longer dip. Other not so much.

Blade play, assembly to loose.

OP... Shoot me a email.
I have a question for you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top