Acies sharpening problems.

T

thrashin302

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Apr 6, 2013
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I have a AG Russell Acies. I've noticed that i cant bring it back to factory sharpness using the lansky system. anyone have any tips for this steel?
 
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I have no problem shaving hair on my arm/leg after using the 20* setting on my Sharpmaker. I reprofile all of my blades to less than 20* per side, and do touch ups on the Sharpmaker. If you take your time and do it properly, it will be incredibly sharp without much real work.

Yes ZDP-189 is harder than most other steels, but considering how little metal is removed when applying a microbevel, it should not require an extreme amount of work.

I'd say just use the 40 setting. It gives great results.
 
it just takes time and making sure your angles stay consistent, as long as you don't let it get too dull fine stone should be fine, but the moment you feel even slight chipping you need to take it to course until its smooth then fine. its honestly easy to sharpen that s 30v in my opinion because it takes a very fine and smooth edge. so in recap, obsessively consistent angles, take your time and don't let it chip. oh and i took my Stretch back a but (don't know the angle) and it does work much better than factory angle. hope this helps
Paul
 
Diamond stones will make the job easier and quicker. I have been using diamond sharpeners of various types for years as they work quicker than non-diamond products. I also take my ZDP blades to low angles between 10 and 15 degrees per side. As long as you don't pry or torque with ZDP they will hold up well. They will also take a great edge at the higher angles if that is preferred.
 
It could be that you aren't hitting the actual edge. Sharpie up the entire edge and sharpen on the 30 degree angle; see where the sharpie gets worn away. The actual edge is likely in between 30 and 40 degrees.
 
Before I got my first knife in ZDP, I read the horror stories regarding it and sharpening. Four ZDP knives later, I find it to be probably my favorite steel (it's in my most carried folder so what the heck). I was a bit apprhensive the first time I took it to my EP, but I found that it is no more difficult to sharpen than any other steels I own. Actually, I've had a tougher time on a couple other super steels sharpening. Make sure you are hitting the very edge, use a sharpie if you have to. I have read to really ease up on the pressure especially during the last passes and higher grits with ZDP, and I have done that. I maintain the edge using a Sharpmaker up to ultrafine and strop. ZDP Holds an edge for what seems like an indefinite time as long as you maintain it. I haven't experienced and chipping as others have either...Probably because I didn't thin it out as much as others seem to, but I got a laser beam edge 24/7.
 
Try a diamond paste loaded strop. A couple of minutes daily insures a hair popping edge.
 
I have an Endura in ZDP and have had 3 goes at sharpening it in my WE, and its sharp, but I just cant get it as sharp as I want. It just doesn't glide effortlessly through copy paper (I finally found a use for work memos :)) the same as my other knives in S30V, S35VN, M390, AUS8, 154CM.
Last time I tried, at 17' per side, I really took my time using stones up to 1600 grit ceramic and finishing with 5 micron and 3.5 micron stropping compound. Sure looks like a nice edge, but the slight toothy/grabbing feel is still there.
I guess I'll try again soon, though for now I feel kinda disappointed with it.
Maybe a micro bevel might help. Dunno, I'm just learning as I go.
 
I had the Delica in ZDP and had the same problem. Tried a wicked edge, lansky, sharp maker, and finally a worksharp with no results. I'm not a pro by any means but this is not the first knife I've sharpened and I've owned many of the super steels as well.
 
"still catches on and rips the thin paper more than it should"

That sounds like burr. Do you have any magnification device? A cheap jewelers loop (maybe 30-60x) will help a lot for seeing what is going on. Don't listen to people telling you to buy or try other sharpening devices. The sharp maker will work a bit slower than something like DMT diamond stones but it will work.

Keep the angle perfect, use light pressure with the finer grits, strop it and view the edge under magnification. YOU WILL GET IT... unless you give up.
 
Honed_Edge said:
" The sharp maker will work a bit slower than something like DMT diamond stones but it will work.

Keep the angle perfect, use light pressure with the finer grits, strop it and view the edge under magnification. YOU WILL GET IT... unless you give up.
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This is probably why the other posters recommended some other systems!
 
JayGoliath said:
I recommend try it on a Japanese water stone. Well a good water stone will do.
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+1

Ceramics can cause chipping on such a hard steel and it would be hard to explain but they are just the wrong type of stone for the steel.

Even simple waterstones like King brand will do the job and provide much better results.
 
From what I've heard, ZDP-189 micro-chips a lot easier than others. When you're sharpening it, remember to use light pressure to keep the edge from burring and chipping.

Additionally, ZDP really appreciates light touch ups to keep it from getting even the slightest hint of dull, it takes longer to re-sharpen it than to do occasional touch-ups.
 
its possible to get zdp right with ceramics, its just trickier, you need to avoid any kind of presssure from start to finish and finish with virtually zero pressure. a thicker angle helps, waterstones and diamond stones too.
 
My ZDP-189 dragonfly 2 sharpened just like my VG-10 dragonfly (took a little longer). I use a lansky on small knives. A mix of diamond, stone and ceramic. I think light pressure is the key.

I'll add ZDP-189 gets very sharp and stays that way for a long time with just an occasional stropping. Love that steel.
 
Cynic2701 said:
It could be that you aren't hitting the actual edge. Sharpie up the entire edge and sharpen on the 30 degree angle; see where the sharpie gets worn away. The actual edge is likely in between 30 and 40 degrees.
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This is your problem. Spyderco (and I am a huge fan, own many, etc...bless their hearts) don't do a real good job of even factory bevels and they are way more obtuse than advertised. I think maybe I've had one that was actually less than 40 degrees inclusive. All the others I have gotten were greater than 40 inclusive and thus had to be reprofiled with diamond plates to make them "Sharpmaker accessible". After than, regardless of steel, life gets easy!
 
OK, I had another go at my ZDP Endura, lightly adding a 19' per side micro bevel using 1000 grit diamond stones, then very light stropping. And it has improved it noticeably, perhaps not quite as good as I would like but definitely smoother feeling sharpness when slicing work memos.
 
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