add jimping to your bk14?

[murderedsongbird]

Hey guys. I've seen some pictures on here of modded bk-14s with jumping. I've wanted some on mine but don't have the slightest idea how to do it. Any tips would be nice. Thanks in advance.

 

[worldwood]

people do it different ways, some use a dremel with a cut-off wheel and some use files and so on but it seems that a checkering file would be one of the easiest ways to go and have the jimping look good and even. although a checkering file can cost you around the same amount or more than the bk14....

 

[Ramil839]

Get a dremel and a marker/pencil,I like about 1cm/1.5 of criss-cross lines for a better grip,I do the lines about 2-3mm deep.

 

[CamH_16]

I haven't had the best luck with dremel cut off wheels so I now use a diamond deburring bit or whatever its called...Essentially about a 1/8" rod with diamond particals on it. Checkering files are nice but they're $40-$50 so unless you do alot of jimping its not worth it for an occasional use item.

 

[brady.kevin07]

I recommend a set of these http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html and to just take your time and mark out where you want to file

 

[europeanoutdoorsman]

You can get a checkering file from brownells (the 30lpi works the best for me) and follow my tutorial here... The files are about 40 bucks (just 1) and they last a lifetime.

They cut MORE precise than a dremel or any other single hand file. I already did my BK2, and if I didn't have it sitting in a solution for a patina, I would take a pic and show you.

I learned this from Tim at Sugarcreek Forge, who learned it from Rick Hinderer back in the day...

[video=youtube;u_7mYMhFY4Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_7mYMhFY4Q[/video]

 

[chuckinohio]

You can use a chainsaw file, they are cylindrical their whole length without the taper of a rat tail file, and can be found darn near anywhere in different sizes.

That is, if you want round bottom jimping.

 

[tobii3]

You can use a chainsaw file.

I'll come out and admit I absolutely suck trying to work with a single file. USE the checkering file before you regret it!!

 

[Galeocerdoshark]

Thanks for the vid, EODM. That could come in very handy. :thumbup:

 

[chuckinohio]

Just a quick word to add.

Dragging the file backwards against the steel will serve to dull the cutting teeth of the file eventually. Make an effort to lift slightly, and then go back into the cutting stroke.
As expensive as a checkering file is, you want it to last as long as possible!!

Using whatever file you have on hand, and uilizing the vise jaws as a guide will get you by as long as you lay out your pattern well.

The checkering file is the goodness though, ease and repeatability are something to reckon with.

 

[wasatchdan]

You can get a checkering file from brownells (the 30lpi works the best for me) and follow my tutorial here... The files are about 40 bucks (just 1) and they last a lifetime.

They cut MORE precise than a dremel or any other single hand file. I already did my BK2, and if I didn't have it sitting in a solution for a patina, I would take a pic and show you.

I learned this from Tim at Sugarcreek Forge, who learned it from Rick Hinderer back in the day...

[video=youtube;u_7mYMhFY4Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_7mYMhFY4Q[/video]

Good video. That will help a lot when I decide to jimp one of my knives. Thanks.

 

[europeanoutdoorsman]

Just a quick word to add.

Dragging the file backwards against the steel will serve to dull the cutting teeth of the file eventually. Make an effort to lift slightly, and then go back into the cutting stroke.
As expensive as a checkering file is, you want it to last as long as possible!!

Using whatever file you have on hand, and uilizing the vise jaws as a guide will get you by as long as you lay out your pattern well.

The checkering file is the goodness though, ease and repeatability are something to reckon with.

Is that for all files? Or just for checkering files because of the teeth structure? I ask because I never heard this before and I haven't had any issues so far.

 

[The Warrior]

I was going to get a checkering file, but I read that it wouldn't work for hardened steel. Guess not.

 

[emperorvince]

Here's an old post I did when I jimped my bk11 with a Dremel. If not familiar with using a Dremel or ya don't have steady hands...use the file method. See posts #1 & 5 for some ideas

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/937851-BK11-Content-I-Tried-to-Leave-It-Alone

 

[europeanoutdoorsman]

I was going to get a checkering file, but I read that it wouldn't work for hardened steel. Guess not.

No, it will work with hardened steel, just takes a little more time. A lot of guys used these on the back strap on pistols, so, that should tell you something. I have done it on all my Moras. I did it in two spots on each Mora, one near the handle and one near the tip for grip when cutting in various tasks. I did it on both carbon and stainless steels and I did it on G10 and on my BK2. Just be careful, like I say in the video, let the tool do the work. If you put your weight into filing into hardened steel, then it probably will dull the file. Just take it easy, take your time. Remember, if you are after speed a dremel may be the best option, but after looks and precision, then maybe file work. I am very picky about my stuff so I use files.

I edited the post to add the pics of the patina and the jimping. Note that on the spine I took the center portion of the jimped area down a bit. I ground it down to make a small indent and also added the jimping.

 

[hawaiianhawk]

Very nicely done work. I tried cutting some into my BK14 with a cutout wheel; unless you're very skilled with a Dremel tool you'll skip around or create uneven cuts. My attempt isn't pretty.

 

[FreebornErik]

Is that for all files? Or just for checkering files because of the teeth structure? I ask because I never heard this before and I haven't had any issues so far.

It's true for "most" files. Most files are made to cut on the push, a few specialized types cut on the draw, and an even fewer number are designed to cut on both the push and the draw, these are the exception. A good quality file used appropriately will last a long time... if you manage to wear it out, then you can heat it up and make a knife or fire striker out of it. Like Chuck said, in order to get the most use out of the file, you shouldn't saw back and forth with it, but lift it off the material on the draw, you don't have to lift it too high or exaggerate the motion. You also need to keep the teeth clear of fouling to cut effectively, on softer materials (brass, plastics, silver, gold, etc.) it's helpful to rub some chalk into the file to keep the teeth from plugging up. Used correctly, a file in good condition, should leave a nearly mirror like finish behind. Back in the old days (before my time), one of the first assignments in machinists school was to make a perfect 1" cube out of a piece of oversized stock with only a file, a vise, a compass, and a divider... sounds a lot easier than it really is.

Erik

 

[chuckinohio]

Is that for all files? Or just for checkering files because of the teeth structure? I ask because I never heard this before and I haven't had any issues so far.

Just like FreebornErik said, it is a precautionary measure to make your file last longer, all files.
Draginng the file back from the cutting stroke will eventually round the tips of the file teeth. This effect is far more pronounced when working on harder materials vs softer substances. Dragging it backwards on G10 probably would have no effect whatsoever, but on hardened 1095 it will round the tips of the teeth over eventually.
You do not have to completely lift the file free of the workpiece, just drag it back with very little to no pressure before you set for the next cutting stroke. Ideally, you would want to lift it free and reset for the next cutting stroke. Using a guide for the file like you are doing with the vise jaws is ideal for this as it lets you engage the same grooves time after time with no worry of wandering out of place.
I learned this from working around old school tool makers who would get angry if you just tossed files into a drawer where they banged against each other, as this would dull them. They believed in getting the most mileage they could out of a tool. Dragging a good file, let alone a 40$ file, against the cut would earn you a stern talking to.

Great video never the less, I slapped my head in disbelief at the ease with which you got jimping on the spine of the Mora.
I've been dinking around with chainsaw files the whole time and never even considered a checkering file for jimping. I even have extensive gun shop experience, and it totally eluded me.
Two thumbs up for sharing your technique!!:thumbup:

 

[europeanoutdoorsman]

Thanks for the advice. I always store my files in dry, cool places to protect them from rust, but I also clean them with a dry soft toothbrush to get the flakes of metal out. I will say, I did try this on a piece of steel 80crv2, which is something like L6 or S7. This was before hardening and it took about 5 minutes to do.

In the video, I say use the 20LPI, but as I have used that more, I now prefer the 30 lpi file. Reason being is the 20 lpi makes jimping with more space in between each divot and this doesn't do so well for me. The 30 lpi will give you jimping very similar to the jimping on Spyderco knives.

One more method I forgot to mention was using a carbide rasp. The only problem with that is if you put a lot of lateral pressure on the bit, it will snap. Also, you need some sort of machinery (not a hand held drill) to use it safely. Just pick out a bit in the diameter you want you jimping slots to be. These will make jimping the Ka-bar BK&T style which can also be used to strike fire steel.

 

[chuckinohio]

The jimping on that BK2 is choice, very clean and professional results.

I now feel that I have to replace all my knives with new stuff and recommence jimping using your methods!!