Adding handles (G-10)

Chambers

Chambers

Joined
Jul 11, 2001
Messages
1,137
Didn't know where else to post this so it's here,
Mods feel free to move it if ya need to..

Ahem, here goes... My step Dad's got an EK Commander
and he's not real big on the paracord handles so he'd
like to have G-10 scales put on it. He has no clue where
he'd go to have something like that done and I told
him I'd see what I could do. Naturally I came here.
Cause, well You all rock. :D Let me know what I need
to do or who you guys would send it to. Thanks a bunch
 
Contact Taz here at Bladeforums. He put some really nice G10 scales on a CUDA Arclite neck knife for me.
 
Here's some of Taz's work. He does a good job at a reasonable price.

Arclite.JPG

Arclite2.JPG

Arclite3.JPG
 
This is a project you could do yourself. I am not sure what the EK tangs look like, but if there are "holes" that you can put pins through, you can do this easily.

Assuming there are holes, find some pinstock to use. Go to hobby shops (wjere you can buy models, train sets, etc.) and you can find different lengths of brass rod and such.

Then get yourself some g-10 and cut 2 pieces out, oversized lengthways a bit just in case. Next tape the 2 pieces together, and finish one end completely. This will be the end by the ricasso (vlose to the blade), not the butt of the knife. To finish I'd suggest some form of power tool, but you could clamp the 2 taped pieces in a vice and use files and paper. Round or "dome" the ends, so they are a little more peasant to look at, and it eleiminates sharp corners. By the way, don't breathe in G-10 dust- please use a respirator.

With the ends finished, clamp 1 slab on the tang (line up that rounded part exactly where you want it) and then you drill your holes. With the tang clamped to the g-10, it acts as a drilling guide. Then put the 2 g-10 slabs back together (the front rounded parts all lined up again) and clamp them. This way you'll use the already lined up and drilled g-10 piece as a drilling guide for the other piece! Drill your holes. Now all you have to do is mix some epoxy (Devcon 2-ton is good, just please use a slower curing epoxy than 5 minute stuff.) With the epoxy ready and pins cut out (you want pins longer than the thickness of the tang and the 2 g-10 slabs, but not much longer), epoxy the works together! Put on soem clamps, and wait. One tip is to put a piece of tape on the ricasso (the part infront of the handle slabs) so that any epoxy that leaks out (it oozes out as it dries) can easily be removed. Don't worry about excess epoxy that much, because you can just take a piece of extra brass pinstock and scrape it off.

So with the lot all dry, just shape the handle to taste. I usually grind the pins down first so I have 2 flat sides, and then I lay the flat sides down on my toolrest on my grinder and grind the g-10 to the tang of the knife. Then I shape the sides of the handle against the platen, round off with the slack belt portion, and then buff. For a grippier surface, you can just hand sand to 220 grit or use some steel wool.

This may sound complicated, but it isn't all that dificult. if you can work with wood, you can put a handle on a knife. Just be sure to use a respirator.
 
Please listen to Crayola's advice about using that respirator.
Don't just use one of those cheapy dust masks. G-10 is very hazardous to one's health if the dust is accidentally inhaled. It's a fiberglass based epoxy laminate.
Get a good dose of the dust in your lungs and you could be looking at a case of lung cancer, mesothilioma (sp?) or other serious respiratory ailments.
Work it, but, be careful.;)
 
wait your talking the emerson commander right? the folder? it comes with g10 scales? or am i thinking about something else
 
These are Ek knives, as in the WWII and up fighters, with shallower bevels and paracord grips, or uniquely patterned micarta grips. Fixed blade fightin' knives with a long tradition, not the Emerson Commander.
 
When messing w/ these laminates, setting up some sort of exhaust would also be a Very Good idea. Clamping the nozzle of a shop vac close to your work bench- works somewhat- as close to your work as is comfortable. You may also want to retro fit a field-expedient after-filter over the exhaust unless you are venting to the outdoors. This is nasty stuff.
 
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