Adding patina, dealing with spine

ashwinearl

ashwinearl

Joined
Nov 9, 2006
Messages
521
I'm working with some carbon steels and am adding a vinegar patina. I'm curious when do others put the patina on and how do you deal with the spine, handle are in terms of finishing them up after epoxy.

For example, I just dipped an unhandled blade so the patina came up partway of the tang, enough that the handle scales will cover it. For this first one, I'm going to finish the spine/handle area with satin. I'm hopeful the contrast between satin spine and patina blade will be interesting.

Other things I'm considering is dry fitting the scales and grinding them to shape and then dipping the entire blade so all edges have equal patina, or trying to blend patina on the spine/handle after everything is final shaped.

Thanks.
 
You can use a Q-tip and apply FC to the spine after finishing the scales. Test it on the belly first to check that your wood doesn't stain, but usually a quick wipe, rinse with Windex, and dry-off will darken the spine. I suspect white vinegar would be good too, but may take longer.
 
I use the Q-tip method Stacy mentioned. Make sure the steel is very clean. If not you will get an uneven etch that looks terrible.
 
This is one of the reasons I prefer hidden tang knives. As an alternative to stacy's method, grind and finish the scales with the scales attached to the knife temporarily, remove the scales, etch, reattach permanently, finish the pins/fasteners without hitting the steel.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but a related question occurred to me: Does vinegar and/or FC also put a patina or discoloration on copper or bronze? If so, I imagine the Q-tip method could be problematic if you were using liners.
 
joedhiggins said:
... As an alternative to stacy's method, grind and finish the scales with the scales attached to the knife temporarily, remove the scales, etch, reattach permanently, finish the pins/fasteners without hitting the steel.
Click to expand...
This has always seemed like it would be very hard to do well, especially with slightly oversized pin holes in the tang
 
Jpgied said:
This has always seemed like it would be very hard to do well, especially with slightly oversized pin holes in the tang
Click to expand...
Yes. The oversized holes do make it tougher. You can super glue the scales in place, with just a couple of drops per scale. This works well, especially in knives with a plastic/resin liner between handle and scales. sharp chisel and they will pop right off. Don't overdo the glue. Aligning everything after is a bit of a pain. I have never found the oversize holes that useful. Just drill accurate holes.

You can also mask your handle material with laquer and then dip in acetone afterwords. Ultimately, I have not found a great method of doing the hidden tang knives with an etch. All of the methods have serious downsides.

It takes more care and precision to do it my way, Stacy's method can leave an uneven etch on the blade. Moreover if you use a buffing wheel on the scales prior to etch, you need to pull the wax off the tang with denatured alcohol or acetone. Doing so damages the buffed finish. If you buff after etching, you lose some of your etch.

I am gonna again vote for hidden tang construction.
 
"Not to hijack the thread, but a related question occurred to me: Does vinegar and/or FC also put a patina or discoloration on copper or bronze? If so, I imagine the Q-tip method could be problematic if you were using liners."

Acids will darken/etch any copper metal.
 
Birch Casey makes I believe, Rifle Black is the name of the product used on Copper, Brass, Nickel Silver, and other metals, Solid Black then you use steel wool if you want less, used on a few rifles I had with Brass fittings on the Furniture/Stocks
 
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