Adding serrations to plain edge

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Nov 13, 2007
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My first Spydie was a combo edge Delica 4, but I traded it for a plain edge after a few months. I like the idea of a combo edge, but because the serrations took up essentially half of the D4's blade, I felt like I was giving up too much of the plain edge that I tend to use much more often. Now I'm wondering if it is possible to SUCCESSFULLY add serrations (say, a half inch worth) to a plain edge? I'm assuming that would be a job better left to a professional... any idea what that might cost, or whether it would be worth the money and risk screwing up the temper or something else. Thanks!
 
My first Spydie was a combo edge Delica 4, . I like the idea of a combo edge, but because the serrations took up essentially half of the D4's blade, !
The serrations take up about one inch and the plain portion is one and a half inches. People have made thier own with chain saw sharpening bits in a Dremel tool. You could also do it by hand with Diamond coated mini files. Search for "diamond needle files". Widgetsupply.com has a large selection. There is not always a lot of info about grits and diameters on the cheaper sets out there. Nothing says that they have to be perfect and uniform to work. Make a few on a cheap knife first.
 
get a round file that will cut the steel fine and all that good stuff, then get a piece of round stock that is the same diameter, but your first serration then tape the file and round stock together, use the round stock as a guide for the file to cut the next serration.

-matt
 
IF you already have the files to do the job, and IF you have the skills to do the job, it may be worth a try. However, we're talking a $50 knife here. You might be better off buying the combo edge knife and then selling your plain edge to recoup some of your money back. Or, just keep both! :D
 
It would probably be quicker to use a triangular file to create a saw-tooth edge. If you cut the serrations with a 60° file, you can conveniently finish/sharpen the teeth to a razor edge with Sharpmaker stones or with a large selection of triangular stones available from Congress Tools.
 
There is a guy named Tom Veff at http://tomveffknives.com/ who sharpens knives and can add serrations. He uses a unique patented geometry for his serrations that seem to be highly ragarded, but he may be able to do standard ones as well by request.
 
get a round file that will cut the steel fine and all that good stuff, then get a piece of round stock that is the same diameter, but your first serration then tape the file and round stock together, use the round stock as a guide for the file to cut the next serration.

I'll look into that and practice on some knives I don't care about first. I don't think I have anything the right size at this point, so I'll check out Home Depot to see what they have that might do what I need. I guess I'd want to get something pretty course to do the major removal and something fine to clean it up. Maybe I could take care of some of that on the corners of my Sharpmaker rods too? Hmmm... that brings up a question... would the edge angle for the serrations be the same as the plain section, just rounded and therefore "deeper"? I'm thinking that if I want to maintain them with a Sharpmaker, I'd want them to be the same or slightly more acute than either 15 or 20 degrees (to work with the 30 or 40 degree setting).

IF you already have the files to do the job, and IF you have the skills to do the job, it may be worth a try. However, we're talking a $50 knife here. You might be better off buying the combo edge knife and then selling your plain edge to recoup some of your money back. Or, just keep both! :D

Thanks... like I said, I previously had a combo edge D4, but the serrations took away more of the plain edge portion than I would have liked. I'm not sure I'm going to do this, just wondering if it's ever done.

There is a guy named Tom Veff at http://tomveffknives.com/ who sharpens knives and can add serrations. He uses a unique patented geometry for his serrations that seem to be highly ragarded, but he may be able to do standard ones as well by request.

I just called... he said that he adds them to all kinds of knives, but they are about 3 serrations per inch, which might be bigger than I'm looking for. He said he can do them smaller (narrower) if requested. So, that's an option to keep in mind.
 
Another thing you might consider, since adding a mere half inch of serrations may not be all that beneficial, is that you could try the coarse sharpening technique that results in micro-serrations and can enhance slicing ability quite a bit. The details of it are covered in many sharpening articles, especially those written by Joe Talmadge. You can do this on a portion of the blade and still be able to use the entire length like a plain edge as well. It might be worth at least experimenting with it before making some irreversible changes to the blade.

Another solution that may be overkill, but certainly answers the need for both a plain edge and a serrated edge without compromise is to get a two-bladed knife (or carry a second knife). Spyderco's Byrd Wings is a good 2-blade example and there are a few other good ones as well.

All of the serrations I have ever seen are ground only on one side of the blade (chisel ground) and this is superimposed onto the basic V-grind of the plain edge. This has always seemed like a strange geometry to me and does create some sharpening angle problems like you alluded to in your post above. I wonder if, doing it yourself, you could make them symmetrically ground by going at them from both sides of the blade. Just a thought. By the way, suitable round files are often sold as chainsaw sharpening files. And yeah, I think you want any of your grind angles to be more acute than 15 degrees so that you can back bevel it when necessary on the sharpmaker. Certainly more acute than 20 degrees so that you can sharpen it in the usual way.
 
Another thing you might consider, since adding a mere half inch of serrations may not be all that beneficial, is that you could try the coarse sharpening technique that results in micro-serrations and can enhance slicing ability quite a bit. The details of it are covered in many sharpening articles, especially those written by Joe Talmadge. You can do this on a portion of the blade and still be able to use the entire length like a plain edge as well. It might be worth at least experimenting with it before making some irreversible changes to the blade.

Another solution that may be overkill, but certainly answers the need for both a plain edge and a serrated edge without compromise is to get a two-bladed knife (or carry a second knife). Spyderco's Byrd Wings is a good 2-blade example and there are a few other good ones as well.

All of the serrations I have ever seen are ground only on one side of the blade (chisel ground) and this is superimposed onto the basic V-grind of the plain edge. This has always seemed like a strange geometry to me and does create some sharpening angle problems like you alluded to in your post above. I wonder if, doing it yourself, you could make them symmetrically ground by going at them from both sides of the blade. Just a thought. By the way, suitable round files are often sold as chainsaw sharpening files. And yeah, I think you want any of your grind angles to be more acute than 15 degrees so that you can back bevel it when necessary on the sharpmaker. Certainly more acute than 20 degrees so that you can sharpen it in the usual way.

Thanks Lurker... I'll check into the coarse sharpening technique, but I kind of miss the look of some serrations on the blade, just not quite so many!! Yeah, I think the Wings would be overkill for my needs (plus, I love the size/weight/feel of the Delica... the Wings is more than twice the weight of the FRN D4).

Regarding a symmetrical vs. chisel grind for the serrations... that's an interesting thought, but I'd probably lean toward the chisel grind. I'm sure it would be easier for the DIY'er to do the chisel grind, since you wouldn't have to match to the other side (bevel angle as well as serration location)... location matching may even be part of manufacturers' reason for not doing it. Plus, if you did a symmetrical grind, wouldn't you be increasing the included angle (eg: 15+15 vs. 15+0) and thereby reduce the slicing ability of the serrations? We wouldn't want that now, would we? :D
 
I don't think it would be hard to match the location because your file would naturally fall into the scallop left from the grinding on the other side. However, you are right that the angle would be less acute and you would want to use a very shallow angle on each side. Maybe so shallow that it would leave a channel pretty high up the primary grind surface. It is clearly easier to grind these from one side, especially in a manufacturing setting. I just thought that since you were doing the work by hand anyway, it would be a possibility and certainly unique. But maybe not the best idea in the end.
 
I have put serrations on a few knives with a chainsaw file they come in a few different sizes .It`s not as hard as you might think just get your angle and width and go to town ,doing it yourself gives you the chance to try different patterns like two wide one narrow that you would never see in a production knife. P.S.chainsaw files are very hard even for files and are pretty thin (round and pretty aggresive) so just give it a try on a old slipjoint first so you get the hang of it there is no reason to be afraid to do it yourself.
 
normal hardware store will sell them, a specialty shop would have a better selection and maybe higher quality but you should be able to get the job done with your run of ht emill general one

-matt
 
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