Adhesive-only-hidden-tang demonstration

David Mary

pass the mustard - after you cut it
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Modern adhesives are a wonder. I have made a handful of knives with hidden tangs, using what I think is an unorthodox method, namely securing the tangs into the handle with adhesive only, and no mechanical fasteners.

I thought it would be good to demonstrate one of these knives in action. Now I don't consider it a "hard use" knife due to the manner in which it was constructed, but I have to say I am quite impressed with how the understated Gorilla Glue I used performed. So here is the knife (at the time of this post, it is WIP, not yet sheathed or marked, and may receive more handle shaping or sanding) in pictures, followed by a video demonstrating its capabilities carving a piece of hard maple.

Pre-assembly
IMG_9381.JPG

Assembled
IMG_9389.JPG
IMG_9390.JPG

Balance
IMG_9392.JPG

Performance (handle construction, and the RC 62-63 AEB-L blade)
(I was listening to Pange Lingua, a hymn composed by Thomas Aquinas. Please excuse the messy office)
 
Have you ever considered using G /Flex epoxy? It is super strong.
715RKL9qezL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
Have you tried prying off the scales to test the strength? It doesn't appear that you tested the bond.
 
David what did you use for the bolster and liner? When you placed the tang in how much did it foam up? What do you usually use in your construction?
 
Have you ever considered using G /Flex epoxy? It is super strong.

It's worth looking into, thank you.

Have you tried prying off the scales to test the strength? It doesn't appear that you tested the bond.

Not on this knife, but I have pry tested other pieces with Gorilla Glue, and found it to be remarkable, requiring a chisel and hammer to separate pieces.

David what did you use for the bolster and liner? When you placed the tang in how much did it foam up? What do you usually use in your construction?

Martin, the bolster is burlap Micarta, and the central liner (aka tang housing) is black canvas Micarta. The green liners are 1/16" thick G10. The Gorilla Glue I used on the tang of this knife is the foaming kind, yes, which expands and is gap filling. The tang was a very tight fit, so the cavity should be completely filled. The outer scales and bolster are attached to the green liners by Gorilla Glue CA.

Despite my confidence in this method of construction (i.e. adhesive only), so far, none of the knives I have sold have been without mechanical fasteners (i.e. pins).

In my first couple years as a hobbyist maker, I had used epoxies, and CAs as well as regular Gorilla Glue (the stuff that looks like honey). In 2020 most of my construction was with Gorilla Glue CA, chosen for its proven impact toughness in choppers I had made, as well as its ready availability and ease of use in my knife making process. It is water resistant, but not waterproof.

On the Sitreps, I used Gorilla Glue White, which is the update formula of the original honey looking Gorilla Glue. It is very strong, but also waterproof. It is the same adhesive used on JK knives, which are known for their strength.
 
I have, a few times, and I'm sure I will again. Thank you!
 
For over 15 years now many cars (Cadillac CTS for example) have had no mechanical connection holding the roof panels on. Only panel adhesive. When I found this out my mind was blown. Modern adhesive is amazing.
 
For over 15 years now many cars (Cadillac CTS for example) have has no mechanical connection holding the roof panels on. Only panel adhesive.

I did not know! That is amazing!

Despite my confidence in this method of construction (i.e. adhesive only), so far, none of the knives I have sold have been without mechanical fasteners (i.e. pins).

I need to correct this: I did sell two small maple handled hidden tang carving knives to @bikerector. I had forgotten about them at the time of my post above. They were my first, and I am confident enough in the strength of the knife shown above as a light to moderate use slicer that I have finished it up and put it on the exchange as well.
 
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Probably not necessary on a small designated slicer, but one way to preserve the clean no-pins look with a touch of added security would be to put small pins that go through the liners and just slightly into the scales. They could rest in the indents at the base of the tang.
 
Agreed. I have done this as well, on a couple of knives.
 
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