Adjusting Lockbar Tension

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bvo85

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Apr 27, 2017
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I read a well-respected person in the knife community write on another forum that he adjusts the lockbar tension on his personal sebenza to make it open smoother. I'm not really sure what that means but I think he means loosening the tension, possibly bending the lockbar outward slightly with his thumb a few times. Or it may mean something completely different. That's just a guess.

This sounds like a terrible idea but I'm nowhere near experienced in knives as this person. I do not want to reveal the person's name because it's not relevant and don't want any bashing to go his way in case I misunderstood what he wrote. It seems unsafe but I'm not really sure.

Does anyone do any kind of adjustment to the lockbar tension on their sebenzas? How is it achieved?
 
No adjustments to lockbar tension.
This is the main reason that the LBS exists on the Umnumzaan.. Because it was such a departure from how the Sebenza opened, many thought that there was an issue with the lockbar and proceeded to "adjust" it.
 
Clueless on this one as well. One thing I'm sure of though.... sounds like something unnecessary and something I would never do myself. If needed I take full advantage of CRK's kickass customer service. But of course... to each their own. I've done way way worse to items as valuable as my sebenzas
 
It’s your knife, you can do whatever you like to it. Including drilling holes, anodizing the scales, or making the blade a clip point.

I’m not a large collector by any means, but a few dozen CRK knives have come and gone. From new to heavily used I’ve never found an issue on the action or lockup. I’m sure it does happen sometimes. It’s not a big company but sometimes mistakes go out. It sucks. But we probably hear far more about the few that slipped through than if everyone who received a perfect knife was posting about it.

And if you are going to modify the knife, please leave the lock bar alone.
 
Curious, do you have an issue with your crk or are you just looking to make it 'that much better' by modification?
 
Mo2 said:
Curious, do you have an issue with your crk or are you just looking to make it 'that much better' by modification?
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The one sebenza I handled that this person had adjusted lockbar tension seemed a lot smoother than any other sebenza I have ever handled and I've handled a couple dozen in my life. The lockup seemed just as secure but the opening was like gliding on butter. And he said all he did was adjust lockbar tension but I didn't ask for details at the time.
 
bvo85 said:
The one sebenza I handled that this person had adjusted lockbar tension seemed a lot smoother than any other sebenza I have ever handled and I've handled a couple dozen in my life. The lockup seemed just as secure but the opening was like gliding on butter. And he said all he did was adjust lockbar tension but I didn't ask for details at the time.
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But he also adjusted the detent strength....if you've ever had a knife open in your pocket before (from running, jumping etc) you'll know that you don't want to loose detent strength just to gain a little smoothness....
 
I adjust the lockbar and detent tension on all my knives if needed (and if possible)... can't with the Zaan as the overtravel is not removable, but thankfully I have no issue with it as it is.
 
mt666tm said:
I adjust the lockbar and detent tension on all my knives if needed (and if possible)... can't with the Zaan as the overtravel is not removable, but thankfully I have no issue with it as it is.
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How do you do it?
 
The only thing I can think of is polishing the washers which made it smother in opening/closing and even free dropper. As far as lockbar tension this is the first I hear and if indeed it is a Sebenza (21?) I see absolutely no reason why to play with lockbar. The 21 has a very generous cutout on the handle to disengage and I have yet to come across a Sebenza with strong tension.
 
bvo85 said:
The one sebenza I handled that this person had adjusted lockbar tension seemed a lot smoother than any other sebenza I have ever handled and I've handled a couple dozen in my life. The lockup seemed just as secure but the opening was like gliding on butter. And he said all he did was adjust lockbar tension but I didn't ask for details at the time.
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The only thing adjusting lockbar tension will change for ease of opening is the way the detent acts. First of all I wouldn't dick around hand adjusting your Sebbie. The whole point of the knife is that it is tightly enginnered. CRKs are not meant to be free swinging pivot knives. Rather they are supposed to have a hydraulic smoothness I find more similar to a smooth Emerson.

Try holding your lockbar so the detent is lifted off the tang and swing the blade back and forward. This is how the knife would swing with zero lockbar tension.

If I were you I would just wait for it to break in like everyone else does. My small 21 could hardly be flicked when I first got it. Now It can't NOT be flicked. After some breaking in flipping, it is so smooth that it is shocking. Atleast as smooth as many of my ball bearing knives. I anticipate that if I keep using my large 21 it will one day be as smooth as my small 21.
 
If you've ever had a knife CLOSE on your hand while you are using it,you could loose finger(s) ,,,,,,,,,just saying....
 
I know this is an old thread but I could use some input. I have a Jeremy Robertson that I'm having lockbar issues with but not in the sense that the lockbar is too tight. It's actually not engaging, meaning the blade tang isn't contacting the lockbar so the blade wiggles unless I press on the lockbar so it has enough pressure to engage the blade. I actually keep the surface oiled so the lock will stick there when I add the pressure.
 
John McNamara said:
I know this is an old thread but I could use some input. I have a Jeremy Robertson that I'm having lockbar issues with but not in the sense that the lockbar is too tight. It's actually not engaging, meaning the blade tang isn't contacting the lockbar so the blade wiggles unless I press on the lockbar so it has enough pressure to engage the blade. I actually keep the surface oiled so the lock will stick there when I add the pressure.
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Probably the wrong place for this post, but I will comment anyway.
It sounds like an issue to take up with the manufacturer or maker in this case. Adjusting lockbar tension on any framelock outside of the manufacturer/maker is probably not a good idea.
 
IMO you don't need to do anything but playing with the knife.

I have received a Large Sebenza 21 insingo at christmas last year.
The lock bar tension was incredibly strong. It was a real disapointment, since I never had such an issue with my other CRK.
It was painful for my thumb for almost 3 weeks, but I didn't stop playing with it, opening/closing it.
As it was breaking in it became smoother and smoother.


Actually all of my CRKs have required a break in period, but this one was the longest one and clearly the most painful.

I can now flick it open without any issue with lockbar tension anymore and it is one of my favourite knife, it has just need more time...
 
Therom said:
IMO you don't need to do anything but playing with the knife.

I have received a Large Sebenza 21 insingo at christmas last year.
The lock bar tension was incredibly strong. It was a real disapointment, since I never had such an issue with my other CRK.
It was painful for my thumb for almost 3 weeks, but I didn't stop playing with it, opening/closing it.
As it was breaking in it became smoother and smoother.


Actually all of my CRKs have required a break in period, but this one was the longest one and clearly the most painful.

I can now flick it open without any issue with lockbar tension anymore and it is one of my favourite knife, it has just need more time...
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For that situation I definitely agree. Guy sold me a Jeremy Robertson model 4 that he never Carried because he never took the time to break the knife in or oil it and it was nearly impossible to open one handed. Now it's ridiculously smooth and my favorite knife. The issue I was having with my El patron however was that the lockbar was set too loose causing a lot of blade play. I did some research on deflection and elasticity of titanium and was able to set the lock bar so it now has enough travel to engage the blade properly with no blade play whatsoever.
 
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