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http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=13
I don't know what grind the Rodent Solution came with, but I'm sure it was either a full flat, high flat, full convex or high convex as those are the standards for most busse kin knives of that size.
Choosing a geometry is mutifaceted. A simple guide for what you should be looking for as far as edges go can be this: 'absolute minimum to resist damage, thus maximum for cutting performance' (which I'm actually paraphrasing from Cliff Stamp). If you add metal to a knife to increase weight for chopping it should be at the spine, not at the edge. Busse kin knives tend to put overly thick edges on anything thats expected to see a chopping, prying or batoning, especially on knives like the tank buster. Heres an example of a bad geometry (for general use as apposed to breaking apart concrete) vs. a good geometry (for general use and cutting/slicing) from busse combat:
boss street vs. mini sus scrofa
and taking it a step further by increasing the thickness right behind the edge:
tank buster vs. mini sus scrofa
This is an example of the kind of edge logic applied to beaters - the edge on this SJTACLE is the same as on the swamp rat Crash Axe. A knife is designed in the same fashion (if not thicker because of the convex grind) as an axe designed to be used for demolition. It's not necessarily bad geometry if your intent is to destroy concrete structures, because the thickness is necessary for INFI to keep it from suffering massive damage and failure during such a brutal activity. But for anything else, the thickness at the edge is overkill because it's more than is needed to resist damage during things like batoning through wood.
So it depends on what you want to do with it. If you intend to strike rocks and concrete as a regular activity with the knife, making it as thick as the tank buster or the SJTACLE will help the knife sustain it's geometry over the long run. Something like the mini sus scrofa would dent deeper into to the knife, and would wear down much faster because it has much less backing material to resist the damage. But if you intend to cut wood and do general use with only a vague potential of ever having to use it for demolition, something like the mini sus scrofa will serve you much better in edc uses, while still being strong enough for a few acts of demolition.
so... Each of the types of geometry shown in the drawn image above can be made good, or the can be made bad. If you use a terrible steel thats ultra soft you'll have to make the edge thick, so any choice in geometry will include a bad element in edge thickness. If you choose a steel that is prone to chipping (or a hardness prone to it), then the thinner geometries may be a poor choice as well, as you are more likely to take huge chunks out of the edge. but as a general description of how to make a scandi style zero edge, flat grind, and convex grind go from good to bad:
(meant to be "there is more distance for the media to spread open the full 1/4" thickness", not "then 1/4")
The same goes for hollow grinds. If you initial edge is too thick it will feel dull during cutting, even if it shaves. If the hollow is too deep (small radius curve) and the stock thickness to thick, you'll end up wedging in what your cutting.
So... should you make the high flat/high convex of the roden solution into a scandi grind? not on a hard user. Scandi grinds have zero edges that are much thinner than most flat grinds because it's "zero" edge, you have a perfect triangle instead of a triangle where the point is made more obtuse by a secondary bevel. Even with a microbevel, it'll still be thinner than normal. If you really want to increase slicing ability while maintaining strength for digging out staples you should keep the grind as it is, just thin it down so the edge thickness is thinner - but leave the tip and forward curve alone. That means you'll have a thinner full flat or thinner full convex for slicing on the main edge but with a thicker tip for taking damage when prying.
Ideally you should carry a small screwdriver with you at all times for screw driving and prying purposes, especially if it's for a known activity (as apposed to just carrying it around the city).
:thumbup::thumbup: