Howdy!
The advantage of one type of stone or sharpener over another depends upon what blade material and style you are using, along with what was done to the material since then, i.e. heat treat & abuse. In other words, what are the edge properties of the knife: Is it the type that dulls by denting, or by chipping at the edge? (is it tougher than it is hard, or otherwise?)
If you have a knife that will dent or deform when it dulls through usage, and not chip, then a ceramic knife sharpener is best: it will, if used to RE-ALIGN the edge, salvage the steel material at that edge instead of simply "strip" the edge-metal away. This lengthens the life of the blade, instead of shortening it every time you sharpen it. The proper way to do this is to run the edge of the blade "backwards" (away from the edge, toward the spine-side) at the proper angle, i.e. the current angle of the edge bevel. (Similar in direction to
stropping an edge.) This is the sharpening instruction from Busse, whose INFI steel is of the aforementioned property.
If, on the other hand, you have a knife material that will chip out as it dulls, then you need a sharpener that will take more material off as it sharpens the edge, that is, to fashion a "new edge," at the level of the bottom of the "chip troughs." A picture here would be handy, but alas, i have none.
Hence, all the sharpeners in the world do little, without proper application to the right knife-edge; you need to know how your knife dulls, how it responds to which sharpening method, and why. If i had to carry only two sharpeners, they would be a ceramic for the
re-aligning method, and a medium diamond for the
material-removal method, and use one or the other, depending upon which "kind" of edge i happened upon that needed sharpening.
( i DO carry two sharpeners at all times, in my belt pack: one smooth ceramic with three flat sides - and three corners, of course - and one medium DMT diamond "stone." This is perfect for "field" work, when stropping or various grit-sequencing aren't time-permissible.)
i never know who i may run into, whose knife may need sharpening, or what condition they may be in, but those two do just fine. If you "need" to field-strop for scary-sharpness, even a corner of a handy piece of wood will do, just don't overstrop! The purpose is to remove the burr, not more edge-material.
KNOW Your Knife, and sharpen accordingly.
Hope this is helpful.
Clif