Adventure Sworn (Classic model)

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patrickguignot

Joined
Sep 10, 2015
Messages
502
I just received a new knife from Adventure Sworn. It's called the "Classic" and I already love it with it's frag pattern.

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Some specs :
Blade Length: 4 inches (102 mm)
Total Length: 9 inches (228 mm)
Blade Thickness: 5/32" (4 mm)
Steel : AEB-L
Grind : Scandi

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I seldom see knives from Adventure Sworn here on Bladeforums. I don't know why because the quality is really excellent and multiple patterns are available.

Here is my collection with top to bottom :
Classic (scandi grind - AEB-L steel)
Mountaineer (scandi grind - 3V steel)
Huntsman (full flat grind - 3V steel)
Explorer (convex grind - 3V steel)

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I have a classic and its a pretty knife but second what arathoi says, blade too thick for size.
 
moonpath said:
I have a classic and its a pretty knife but second what arathoi says, blade too thick for size.
Click to expand...

You can select other models with thinner blades.
The blade of the Classic is 5/32" (4 mm) for a 4 inches cutting edge length.
The blade of the Explorer is 1/8" (3 mm) for a 4.25 inches cutting edge length.
 
Thanks for the post, Patrick! You've got a cool collection going on. That frag pattern is a new thing for us, I didn't know how it'd turn out but it really feels awesome in the hand.

I grew the brand on BushcraftUSA forum, so even though I rarely hung out here, I actually sold my very first few knives on Bladeforums. The first knife Amber and I ever listed up for sale sold here, in about 15 minutes... that's when we knew we had something going.

A Arathol Wow, that's quite the old school Adventure Sworn. One of the first knives I've made, no doubt... probably first 10 or so. I made that knife around 2009-2010 at age 20 on an old 1x30 edge sander. We've made over 10,000 now.

I wouldn't be surprised if the scandi grind angle was too steep or something, perhaps too convexed... it's hard to tell in the images. I experimented a lot with the angle of scandi grinds, took about a hundred or so to settle on the ideal formula. What I like is basically this: the edge bevel should be at least twice as tall as the thickness of the spine. A 3mm thick spine should have a 6mm+ edge bevel. So, a 4mm thick spine should have exactly an 8mm bevel if you plan on not adding any secondary microbevel or convexing the edge (if you are keeping it a true zero scandi). If you do add a micro bevel to your scandis, I'd recommend going a tad more shallow with the grind. That's what we do today. On a 4mm thick spine I'll often do an 8.2-9mm deep edge bevel, usually landing around 8.5 mm. I can always modify this the upon customer's request, of course. I also try to keep the edge bevel quite flat (true scandi) all the way until the last belt (wool felt with green chrome compound)

Any more steep is generally too steep. I've seen some cheap companies put like a 6mm deep bevel on a 4mm thick spine, and that thing won't carve worth a damn. You can go more shallow, such as a 10mm or even 12mm deep edge bevel on a 4mm thick stock, but then you'll need a pretty fierce microbevel so that it holds an edge. At that point, the grind is more like a scandivex. Also, I've found that going too shallow actually reduces cutting aggressiveness; if you like cutting thumb-thick branches in half with effortless push-cut, that 8-9mm deep bevel range is 👌 (on 4mm thick stock)
 
moonpath said:
I have a classic and its a pretty knife but second what arathoi says, blade too thick for size.
Click to expand...
I'd say that depends. Both 3mm and 4mm thick stock seem to carve wood about equally aggressive (with powercuts). There is some advantage going with a rather thin stock if you do a lot of very fine whittling, like carving woodspirits, etc. As well, for slicing chores (camp kitchen, food prep, filleting, hunting, meat, etc.) you're going to have an advantage with the thinner stock. However, the thicker stock does split wood apart more effectively via batonning... this might be very important for those who don't bring a designated chopper or an axe. I often don't, for example. Neither 3mm or 4mm will break, its really about which one will push the wood apart with less effort.

In short, if you use your knife for a bunch of camp kitchen work, go thinner. If you baton a lot, go thicker.

Of course, we offer a variety of blade thicknesses for every model. Thinning out the stock of any knife purchased is something we offer. I don't charge to take a 4mm stock down to 3mm, or even 2.5mm. Takes very little time with my TW-90 surface grinder... that thing is such a life-saver.
 
Adventure Sworn said:
A Arathol Wow, that's quite the old school Adventure Sworn. One of the first knives I've made, no doubt... probably first 10 or so. I made that knife around 2009-2010 at age 20 on an old 1x30 edge sander. We've made over 10,000 now.
Click to expand...
OK, LOL.....now I had go search back and look......Its A2, not O1. Got it here in 2011.....
Rotte

Thread 'Cordage contest'

I've be away from the forum for a while but wanted to jump back in. I thought I'd do a contest to promote a basic skill: making cordage. I usually carry a bit of 550 cord or some other type of cordage when out in the bush, but I'm eager to learn more about making improvised cordage. So here is my contest idea and rules....

1. Using natural fibers or materials, make a length of cordage 14" or more in length. Thickness not specified, but some kind of assessment of breaking strength would be nice, e.g. "can hold 10#"

2. Post a picture of both the starting materials and the finished...
A

Post in thread 'Cordage contest'

Since all the responses so far have been vegetation based cord, I figured I'd go in another direction.


First, the raw materials - some dried sinew from the rear legs of a deer, not unlike this one

yqvIBcJl.jpg


something to pound it out with and a small anvil to hammer on. The poll of a small hatchet will work, a ball pein works better.

ks1ueevl.jpg



Pound it out and the fibers will separate and can be then stripped out
yjPyjXkl.jpg



zVkFPDol.jpg
...
 
Arathol said:
OK, LOL.....now I had go search back and look......Its A2, not O1. Got it here in 2011.....
Rotte

Thread 'Cordage contest'

I've be away from the forum for a while but wanted to jump back in. I thought I'd do a contest to promote a basic skill: making cordage. I usually carry a bit of 550 cord or some other type of cordage when out in the bush, but I'm eager to learn more about making improvised cordage. So here is my contest idea and rules....

1. Using natural fibers or materials, make a length of cordage 14" or more in length. Thickness not specified, but some kind of assessment of breaking strength would be nice, e.g. "can hold 10#"

2. Post a picture of both the starting materials and the finished...
A

Post in thread 'Cordage contest'

Since all the responses so far have been vegetation based cord, I figured I'd go in another direction.


First, the raw materials - some dried sinew from the rear legs of a deer, not unlike this one

yqvIBcJl.jpg


something to pound it out with and a small anvil to hammer on. The poll of a small hatchet will work, a ball pein works better.

ks1ueevl.jpg



Pound it out and the fibers will separate and can be then stripped out
yjPyjXkl.jpg



zVkFPDol.jpg
...
Click to expand...

That makes sense, my earliest knives were all A2. Well, except the very first one, which I made from a file. You definitely have one of the earliest AS knives that I'm aware of... really cool. It's hard to source them. Maybe the 3rd or 4th knife I made?
 
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