Advice about salvaging saw blades we used at tissue plant

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Nov 27, 2011
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Hi

I hope this is the correct forum to ask a question regarding salvaging saw blades we use at work (tissue paper manufacturing plant) and dispose of once the teeth are dull.

After I've started to notice these big circular blades being trashed I got the idea to either begin a knife making hobby or at least start salvaging these blades for someone else.

I have recorded every bit of info i could find on the 2 blades we use and scoured the internet to try and get any reference info to help. I'm still in the process of getting info but please be aware I have full authority from management to take them from the shop.

Blade 1
Maker - IKS (USA)
Size 870mm
product numbers - m117358, 82058

Blade 2
Maker - TKM (Germany)
Size 610mm
other info - Chomalit 34
product numbers - FE 100056580-006, 026674

Thanks in advance for any advice or info!

;)
 
What kind of teeth do thy have on them, carbide or steel? Do you have a picture of the blades in question?
 
Hi

I hope this is the correct forum to ask a question regarding salvaging saw blades we use at work (tissue paper manufacturing plant) and dispose of once the teeth are dull.

After I've started to notice these big circular blades being trashed I got the idea to either begin a knife making hobby or at least start salvaging these blades for someone else.

I have recorded every bit of info i could find on the 2 blades we use and scoured the internet to try and get any reference info to help. I'm still in the process of getting info but please be aware I have full authority from management to take them from the shop.

Blade 1
Maker - IKS (USA)
Size 870mm
product numbers - m117358, 82058

Blade 2
Maker - TKM (Germany)
Size 610mm
other info - Chomalit 34
product numbers - FE 100056580-006, 026674

Thanks in advance for any advice or info!

;)

Chromalit ...........not chomalit :) It is 12% chrome steel , probably D2 steel ?? Here in paper industry they use D2 steel . To bad that is very thick for knive .

I think it s OK this link ................. http://www.davisandjenkins.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/DJ-TKM-catalogue-2016.pdf
 
Sure ! They may be useful.
But, Unless you can get 'specs on the steel, its going to be a seat of pants for heat treat.

Depending on the steel, they May be dammed difficult / impossible forging.
Cold grinding might be only practical method shaping.
 
I have some of these "saws" (more of a spinning knife...) from a paper mill in the Pacific Northwest.
Mine are made by IKS, and are actually stamped D2.
I do know folks who have made knives from them, but they are tapered from the center to the edge, so present a unique situation.
I have not made any knives from them, but did play around on some of the steel, as hardened it is very hard to grind, brittle (chips out), etc.
I keep them mostly as curious knife-like-objects.

Brome
 
I would make a 48" handle for the smaller one that goes through the center hole and call it "The world's Largest Pizza Cutter".
Other than that, they will not really be of much knifemaking use.

For a beginner, they will not be of any use. A bar of 1084 wuld be far better to work with as a new maker..
 
Sure ! They may be useful.
But, Unless you can get 'specs on the steel, its going to be a seat of pants for heat treat.

Depending on the steel, they May be dammed difficult / impossible forging.
Cold grinding might be only practical method shaping.

Yeah, looks like I have some research to do. Thanks!

I have some of these "saws" (more of a spinning knife...) from a paper mill in the Pacific Northwest.
Mine are made by IKS, and are actually stamped D2.
I do know folks who have made knives from them, but they are tapered from the center to the edge, so present a unique situation.
I have not made any knives from them, but did play around on some of the steel, as hardened it is very hard to grind, brittle (chips out), etc.
I keep them mostly as curious knife-like-objects.

Brome

Yep, thats them. The definitely chip out which is my concern if its even worth the effort.

I would make a 48" handle for the smaller one that goes through the center hole and call it "The world's Largest Pizza Cutter".
Other than that, they will not really be of much knifemaking use.

For a beginner, they will not be of any use. A bar of 1084 wuld be far better to work with as a new maker..

I understand. Hopefully I can find some use out of them, but I agree, first I should start with something like 1084 and go from there. Appreciate the input!
 
I've done hundreds of knives from reclaimed sawmill blades, but I don't recommend it to beginners. It takes a fair bit of experience and familiarity with the specific blades to be able to get a consistently good heat treat. The only reason I work with it at all is a lot of my customers request them specifically.

As for blades tapered to the edge? Forget it.... I had recieved a pile of shingle mill blades which are constructed that way. All of them ended up in the scrap bin. Just not worth trying to deal with.

My normal recommendation is to pick up a bar of precision ground O1 (or A2 if you'll send it off for HT) it's far nicer to work with, and will virtually always give better results.
 
I just want a 2 foot diameter pizza cutter :D!

~Chip
 
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