Advice for first time reprofiling

C

Charlie_K

Joined
Jul 16, 2012
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I saw a video on youtube showing how to reprofile the SP10 Bowie's edge to a 19 degree angle. It showed the use of a vice, padded locking pliers, machine oil, and a metal file. The entire process looked really simple, as is the nature of youtube videos.

But having never done something like this before, I'd like to know just how involved the process is, and what things have to be taken into consideration for reprofiling.
 
Changing a blades edge angle is not huge. It takes know how, 1-2hrs. time and the right tools. A Norton coarse crystalline stone with mineral oil will do it. The stone will require some cleaning after 70-80 strokes. Depending on the steel and how much metal your removing will dictate how long it takes. Mark the area you want to grind off with a black marker and when that is ground down mark it again until you get the desired thickness. Hold the knife at the desired angle as you work. Grind 5-10 strokes and check it. Good luck, DM
 
I like to cut off the edge by cutting into the stone first. This will help you know when you apex the edge at the angle you want and give you that line of light along the edge to help you keep track of progress. Other than that, do what David said.
 
Grab a sharpie and color the bevel of your edge. Make 1-2 swipes then look at the bevel. Where the sharpie is now missing is where you are grinding on the stone. That will give you a rough idea at what angle you are sharpening at and can help you in the initial stages of setting the bevel. On another note, be patient. Once you start getting the edge set the whole process is relatively easy, but once you remove metal, there is no getting it back.
 
It would seem I can't go through with reprofiling my SP10. Try as I might I simply can't bring myself to potentially destroying the blade by doing something I have absolutely experience with.
 
Practice on old kitchen knives or cheap junk knives from a sporting goods store like Big 5. I will admit, that even several months after I was practicing freehand sharpening, I botched a few edges reprofiling knives with a geometry more complex than your standard kitchen knife. In any case you just have to go at it. I've received a TREMENDOUS amount of help on this subforum teaching me a lot conceptually about sharpening. After learning these, you then of course need to apply them. After a few attempts you'll get used to what you're doing and sharpening will come by much easier.

I would definitely not give up. Maybe start on a knife you don't care about, but if you're going to have a hobby in knives--sharpening is about the best skill you can have. If you're completely against sharpening it by yourself though, richardj and knifenut (vvv the one in my sig vvv) both do great and affordable sharpening service.
 
No need to worry too much about it. It's the same as sharpening, you're just changing the angle and shape of the edge. As long as you do the same thing on both sides you should be good.
 
So today I picked up one of those Smith's precision two stone sharpening systems, with the diamond sharpener, arkansas stone, sharpening compound, and two angle adjustable clamp. I figured having some sort of locking guide system would do a lot better than trying to freehand it. And from what I've heard from others here, diamond stones are supposed to aggressively remove steel with moderate pressure.

Well that didn't happen. Barely anything got removed regardless of how much I tried. This precision sharpener didn't do a bit of good at putting a 20 degree bevel to the edge.
 
So this is the result of my efforts at reprofiling the factory edge. I don't know if I made it better or made it worse.







 
Charlie, You have to use a coarse stone. What was the grit rating of the diamond stone? You at least tried and that's something way better than not trying. There is now a chance you'll move into learning. DM
 
If you really need help with re-profiling, you can try rigging up something like this.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Knife-Sharpening-Jig-1/

It'll help you get that consistency. Personally, i would shoot for something closer to 10-15 dps, then use a 20 dps micro-bevel for general maintenance sharpening. And i know you didn't ask for that so feel free to ignore.
 
David Martin said:
Charlie, You have to use a coarse stone. What was the grit rating of the diamond stone? You at least tried and that's something way better than not trying. There is now a chance you'll move into learning. DM
Click to expand...

I don't know what the grit rating is, the instruction didn't say. All it said was that it's a coarse diamond sharpener meant for aggressive work.

fervens said:
If you really need help with re-profiling, you can try rigging up something like this.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Knife-Sharpening-Jig-1/

It'll help you get that consistency. Personally, i would shoot for something closer to 10-15 dps, then use a 20 dps micro-bevel for general maintenance sharpening. And i know you didn't ask for that so feel free to ignore.
Click to expand...

I actually bought a sharpener to use. Smith's two stone sharpening system, with a clamping mount that goes right onto the blade, and provides slots for 20 and 25 degree edges, along with guide rods to keep the stones straight and level.

What I'm wondering now is if I should approach this gradually over the course of several days. Maybe so many passes a day, gradually reshaping the bevel until I get the desired results, rather than trying to get everything done in the course of a few hours.
 
If you want, every time you sharpen your knife just gradually break down the shoulders of the bevel. This may start to make it look like a convex though.
 
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