Hey guys I have done a very minor amount of leather work when I was young. Now when I say minor amount I mean I used to go with my uncle when I was younger to boy scouts meetings and events and we would go do the arts and crafts and when it came to leatherwork I always got so excited because I knew he loved to help and watch me learn how to do it and it was a great bonding experience. Now on to my dilemma I have lots of knives I have collected over the years and some of them are fixed blade that got handed down to me from my father as well as some from my uncle. Recently my aunt (his wife) died after a bad fight with cancer and it has him down in a rut I would like to try to rekindle that bonding moment with him to help both him and me lay rest the pain from my aunts death. What I need from you guys is I need a list of things or maybe a kit of tools and leather that would be a good set to learn on again, Maybe someone can reccomend a link to a starter set that includes everything to make sheaths. I will be getting with him and making sheaths for all the fixed blades and maybe some slippies that were handed down on both sides of our families. And I look forward to seeing a smile on his face again from the bonding and family time. Thanks in advance for your help with this guys!
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Advice for someone wanting to start making Leather sheaths....
- Thread starter SgtCuts
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2007
- Messages
- 2,738
Sgt, I would suggest going to Tandy Leather Factory (.com) site and search their Leathercraft Starter Kits, in them they offer everything you would need to get started.
Also get, Al Stohlman's book, The Art of Masking Leather Cases, volume one. In it you'll find step-by-step instruction on making several styles of knife sheaths and cases. I've always said this is a must-have for anyone doing leather work.
Good luck.
Also get, Al Stohlman's book, The Art of Masking Leather Cases, volume one. In it you'll find step-by-step instruction on making several styles of knife sheaths and cases. I've always said this is a must-have for anyone doing leather work.
Good luck.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2005
- Messages
- 326
Wow, I ended up writing a lot more than I had intended. I better copy this to my notes for later 
If I was starting someone out this is what I'd get them. The starter kits look good but for specialty tools I could easily get by with two stamps (if I'm doing tooling at all), the groover and the oversticher. Then there's dye, thread and needles. Then some optional finishing tools. The rest of the tools you probably already have.
Chuck Burrows sheath making DVD is really, really good. Really good. I would strongly suggest this or find a very good tutorial on line. I'd be skeptical of a turorial that didn't use the groover and oversticher.
Best leather available that I know of is form Wicket and Craig but that's for big pieces of leather. Tandy's is kind of overpriced but very handy for leather. I use 8-9oz leather, some people use 7-8.
http://www.wickett-craig.com/
Links are from Tandy but a lot of this stuff is on ebay also. I figured you might have a Tandy near by or at least could combine shipping if you go this route.
**************************
Border Stamp $8 of some kind like this
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/6434-00.aspx
Not sure of the sizes but some type of basketweave stamp like this one $8
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...tamps/Basketweave-Leather-Stamps/6500-00.aspx
Groover is extremely handy $20
I like this cheap one then I take out the just about worthless regular screw that you adjust it with and put in a more substantial hex screw. I also pick a screw that is too long so it sticks out and gives something to ride against the edge of the leather. If you didn't do this it still works but not as slick.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8074-00.aspx
Overstitcher $20 is almost essential to make it look professional but it will allow you to make it look like the stiching was done with a machine. I'm not sure what size, you'd probably be fine with the middle one.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Stitching-Lacing-Tools/8079-298.aspx
Waxed linen thread, I like the natural a lot $7 It's 25 yards and will last quite a while.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Lacing/11207-003.aspx
10 pack of needles $3 but I've scrounged around the house and found needles that worked. These are better and if you're going to order from them anyway...
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Lacing/1195-00.aspx
Mahogany Dye 4oz on sale $3 (or pick whatever color you like but that's not bad for general purpose)
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather-dye/2600-09.aspx
**************************
I use a nail in my drill press to make the holes once they are marked with the overstitcher. Getting them straight is the hardest part of making a sheath for me. Maybe I should stop trying to be fancy and do it the way they used to, with a punch. Although the drill press is a big improvement over the dremel and is working pretty good.
An edge beveler is nice $20 but you can sand off the edges easily enough.
I just use a utility knife to cut the leather but I sharpen it often.
You don't need a fancy leather mallet, at least not yet. I use a cheap hard plastic mallet but sometimes whatever hammer is closest.
Any decent rubber cement will work fine.
I like the skiving tool for thinning leather (couldn't find it on the Tandy site) but it's not necessary. I only use it on a couple of spots on the sheath and you can do it with a utility knife ok.
I was skeptical of super shene (on sale for $4) as gimmicky but it really does add a nice touch, but not needed
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Liquids-N/2610-136.aspx
same with gum tragacanth $8 for polished looking edges. I have a very special piece of antler that always seems to have just the right angle on it somewhere to burnish the edges, but to burnish without this stuff you have to press hard and move fast. This you just wipe on and then burnish a little bit with just about anything, like handle of a tool or something. But, not necessary.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Liquids-N/2620-140.aspx
After watching Chuck's DVD I now love making sheaths and have made some other things like holsters and shop tools. Once you have some basic tools you can really branch out. Have fun :thumbup:
If I was starting someone out this is what I'd get them. The starter kits look good but for specialty tools I could easily get by with two stamps (if I'm doing tooling at all), the groover and the oversticher. Then there's dye, thread and needles. Then some optional finishing tools. The rest of the tools you probably already have.
Chuck Burrows sheath making DVD is really, really good. Really good. I would strongly suggest this or find a very good tutorial on line. I'd be skeptical of a turorial that didn't use the groover and oversticher.
Best leather available that I know of is form Wicket and Craig but that's for big pieces of leather. Tandy's is kind of overpriced but very handy for leather. I use 8-9oz leather, some people use 7-8.
http://www.wickett-craig.com/
Links are from Tandy but a lot of this stuff is on ebay also. I figured you might have a Tandy near by or at least could combine shipping if you go this route.
**************************
Border Stamp $8 of some kind like this
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/6434-00.aspx
Not sure of the sizes but some type of basketweave stamp like this one $8
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...tamps/Basketweave-Leather-Stamps/6500-00.aspx
Groover is extremely handy $20
I like this cheap one then I take out the just about worthless regular screw that you adjust it with and put in a more substantial hex screw. I also pick a screw that is too long so it sticks out and gives something to ride against the edge of the leather. If you didn't do this it still works but not as slick.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8074-00.aspx
Overstitcher $20 is almost essential to make it look professional but it will allow you to make it look like the stiching was done with a machine. I'm not sure what size, you'd probably be fine with the middle one.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Stitching-Lacing-Tools/8079-298.aspx
Waxed linen thread, I like the natural a lot $7 It's 25 yards and will last quite a while.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Lacing/11207-003.aspx
10 pack of needles $3 but I've scrounged around the house and found needles that worked. These are better and if you're going to order from them anyway...
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Lacing/1195-00.aspx
Mahogany Dye 4oz on sale $3 (or pick whatever color you like but that's not bad for general purpose)
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather-dye/2600-09.aspx
**************************
I use a nail in my drill press to make the holes once they are marked with the overstitcher. Getting them straight is the hardest part of making a sheath for me. Maybe I should stop trying to be fancy and do it the way they used to, with a punch. Although the drill press is a big improvement over the dremel and is working pretty good.
An edge beveler is nice $20 but you can sand off the edges easily enough.
I just use a utility knife to cut the leather but I sharpen it often.
You don't need a fancy leather mallet, at least not yet. I use a cheap hard plastic mallet but sometimes whatever hammer is closest.
Any decent rubber cement will work fine.
I like the skiving tool for thinning leather (couldn't find it on the Tandy site) but it's not necessary. I only use it on a couple of spots on the sheath and you can do it with a utility knife ok.
I was skeptical of super shene (on sale for $4) as gimmicky but it really does add a nice touch, but not needed
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Liquids-N/2610-136.aspx
same with gum tragacanth $8 for polished looking edges. I have a very special piece of antler that always seems to have just the right angle on it somewhere to burnish the edges, but to burnish without this stuff you have to press hard and move fast. This you just wipe on and then burnish a little bit with just about anything, like handle of a tool or something. But, not necessary.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Liquids-N/2620-140.aspx
After watching Chuck's DVD I now love making sheaths and have made some other things like holsters and shop tools. Once you have some basic tools you can really branch out. Have fun :thumbup:
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2007
- Messages
- 19,224
as a "basic minimum"
Leather.
Sharp thin blade for cutting leather (Exacto knife works fine).
Sharp punch. Waxed thread (you can wax it your self, or use pre waxed).
I tend to use the punch first, then hand thread with two leather needles (these are very cheap and come in a bag of them).
A groover is handy (I have a free hand, and one with a little guide for keeping the groove spaced from the edge).
I also have an edge slicker, but some of my best edges have been done with a piece of wet denim scrap, and a lot of polishing.
Honestly, the best tool for me, for makign my sheaths look better has been a 1x30 belt sander disc grinder combo from Harbor Freight.
I use it to clean up and shape the edges.
Other tools, like a skiver have been handy.
All my leather tools came from Tandy.
The Wicket and Craig leather is what a lot of the top makers use, but it can be very confusing to order the right stuff for me.
I just went into Tandy and said "hey, I am making some sheaths, what leather would work".
Got all situated.
Read all the tutorials on here. Big help!
Leather.
Sharp thin blade for cutting leather (Exacto knife works fine).
Sharp punch. Waxed thread (you can wax it your self, or use pre waxed).
I tend to use the punch first, then hand thread with two leather needles (these are very cheap and come in a bag of them).
A groover is handy (I have a free hand, and one with a little guide for keeping the groove spaced from the edge).
I also have an edge slicker, but some of my best edges have been done with a piece of wet denim scrap, and a lot of polishing.
Honestly, the best tool for me, for makign my sheaths look better has been a 1x30 belt sander disc grinder combo from Harbor Freight.
I use it to clean up and shape the edges.
Other tools, like a skiver have been handy.
All my leather tools came from Tandy.
The Wicket and Craig leather is what a lot of the top makers use, but it can be very confusing to order the right stuff for me.
I just went into Tandy and said "hey, I am making some sheaths, what leather would work".
Got all situated.
Read all the tutorials on here. Big help!
