Advice for the ultimate action?

Cow51

Cow51

Joined
May 6, 2016
Messages
662
This is aimed specifically at BM's with AXIS locks. Although advice for other knives is welcomed.

I'm wondering what most do for a drop free or near DF action without sacrificing much in blade play? Is it just lubricant, break in and a finding the sweet spot? Or is there more to it?

I recently got a 550HG and can't get a good action and at the same time have little blade play on it yet. I polished the PB bushings and used Hoppe's #9 lubricant and did my best to get the sweet spot. I think I need new lubricant, any recommendations? (I've tried Tuft-Glide but it makes it worse.)
 
Cow51 said:
This is aimed specifically at BM's with AXIS locks. Although advice for other knives is welcomed.

I'm wondering what most do for a drop free or near DF action without sacrificing much in blade play? Is it just lubricant, break in and a finding the sweet spot? Or is there more to it?

I recently got a 550HG and can't get a good action and at the same time have little blade play on it yet. I polished the PB bushings and used Hoppe's #9 lubricant and did my best to get the sweet spot. I think I need new lubricant, any recommendations? (I've tried Tuft-Glide but it makes it worse.)
Click to expand...
For the best, free dropping, Benchmade experience buy a Ritter Griptillian and stay away from the 710. I like the 710 quite a bit but it isn’t the best for having a free dropping action.


The Ritter I just use it. It is perfection. No break in. No fooling around. I hardly need to lube it.
 
"polished the PB washers"

This line is so scarry to me I shy away from any for sale thread that says that... How did you polish them? I hope you don't say 1000grit sand paper as you've removed WAY to much material introducing even more blade play.

The only material that should touch PB washers is a strop loaded with white compound or extremely fine diamond spray, ANYTHING else is to much and while the washers will be shinier they'll also be thinner actually compounding any issue you're trying to fix.
 
Wowbagger: Thanks for the advice on the Ritter and 710. I guess I could have worded it better, but what I want to know is how to improve an action?

Cereal_killer: I just used a strop loaded with green polishing compound, and I didn't do it long enough that my finger was shiny as well. I also wouldn't buy a knife if they said they polished the washers. With the exception that they are skilled and know what they are doing.
 
Cow51 said:
Wowbagger: Thanks for the advice on the Ritter and 710. I guess I could have worded it better, but what I want to know is how to improve an action?
Click to expand...
No I think I understood.
What I am saying is
DESIGN​

is everything. Leave out some structural stud(s) cough . . . 710 . . . or use the wrong size washers or some such and you will be swimming up stream.
Good (great) design . . . Griptillian . . . and there is nothing you have to "Do".
Those other knives do serve a purpose though . . . makes one appreciate the good ones.
 
Wowbagger said:
No I think I understood.
What I am saying is
DESIGN​

is everything. Leave out some structural stud(s) cough . . . 710 . . . or use the wrong size washers or some such and you will be swimming up stream.
Good (great) design . . . Griptillian . . . and there is nothing you have to "Do".
Those other knives do serve a purpose though . . . makes one appreciate the good ones.
Click to expand...

I understand design plays a part, but I have one with a good design. The action isn't great (yet) so I wanted to know what I could be doing to make it better.
 
Wowbagger said:
For the best, free dropping, Benchmade experience buy a Ritter Griptillian and stay away from the 710. I like the 710 quite a bit but it isn’t the best for having a free dropping action.


The Ritter I just use it. It is perfection. No break in. No fooling around. I hardly need to lube it.
Click to expand...

That's not universally true. Benchmades are hit and miss. My 710 drops freely with zero play, as does my Mini-Grip.

As for attaining that action, you can try polishing the washers and their contact patch on the blade. Add a lightweight lubricant and that should get you as close as you're going to get. Then it's just a matter of pivot tension.
 
Thanks Bryce!

I going to try some BM blue lube, and also polish the contact patch like you suggested and go from there.
 
Cow51 said:
Thanks Bryce!

I going to try some BM blue lube, and also polish the contact patch like you suggested and go from there.
Click to expand...
Go easy on the polishing. Doesn't take much to introduce play.
 
Id just tune it as much as possible, like you did, towards good action and a bit of a play. You won't feel it much during use and it sounds to me you want it to close nicely. Then over time maybe it will get better as you work it in and you will be able to tighten it more. You can polish the liners near the washers a bit too and the blade. It's not bearings what do you expect. My pm2 is pretty solid and free dropping but it's the lock that holds it in place like that cuz there's a ramp on the lockface. Don't really have any bms :cool: yet.
 
Last edited:
Cow51 said:
Should I be fine using a strop loaded with black then green compound?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't bother with the black. Just use the green or even plain leather. The washers are a lot softer than steel.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
I wouldn't bother with the black. Just use the green or even plain leather. The washers are a lot softer than steel.
Click to expand...

I just got done messing with it, I used the green for the washers, and black then green for the other contact points. It's definitely a lot better.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
That's not universally true. Benchmades are hit and miss. My 710 drops freely with zero play, as does my Mini-Grip.

As for attaining that action, you can try polishing the washers and their contact patch on the blade. Add a lightweight lubricant and that should get you as close as you're going to get. Then it's just a matter of pivot tension.
Click to expand...

Nope.
You probably didn't see my thread from around X-mas
If I press in on the sides of the knife it grips the blade and keeps it from dropping. If I relax the pressure the blade drops. The older ones with a back spacer do not do this. If mine had another post where there is a slot / hole then mine would function properly. Solution = get / make a spacer. I haven't done that yet. I want a blue one like the rest.

Link = here

See hole here
IMG_4035_zpsjbcslzvb.jpg
 
I think I need new lubricant, any recommendations? (I've tried Tuft-Glide but it makes it worse.)

In the words of Click and Clack : Ok if you don't want to spend the money to fix the car (not you OP just the caller to their show) . . . then here's what you do :
Go to your local auto parts store.
Walk up and down the isles until you see a can of stuff that says "Miracle" on it.
Take it home and pour it in the tank.

When that doesn't work call us back.

I'm playing around. The Griptillian is good. I seriously doubt ANY lube is going to help. If any could check out this graphite lube in the photo bellow in the black and white can (comes in other package styles this one is ancient ).
Maybe the handle is warped.
Perhaps another example of the same knife would be the most sure long term solution. Hard to fix the warped handle prob without a precision mill or a lot of experience.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top