Advice for Wick Edge near heal?

JBoone

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Dec 30, 2012
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Seems like I get pretty good results on the entire blade with my wicked edge but struggle with the area on my spydercos near the heal. It seems like possibly two thing are in play.

The Ricaso which hits the corner of my paddles which leaves a small gap between where the actual diamond plate contacts the blade (the plastic edge of the paddle extends a mm or so past the cutting plate), and the fact that the angle seems to be less steep on this part of the blade (though I don’t think it is by much but the bevel is thinnest here when I sharpen. Seems even when foward of this 1-2 gap where plates are contacting still catches paper (not properly apexed or refined)

When testing the edge on paper the blade ways to catch close to ricasso. I may just need to spend more time on this or move over to a sharp maker to clean up this area with the hope that I can blend it in?

I am leaning towards the possibility that I am just not spend adequate time on that area when going through the strokes and need to slow down.

No expert but have had the system for almost two years and this seems to be my weak spot at this point.

Any suggestions?
Thanks all!
 
I have the same issue and decided to use another sharpening system for my Spydercos. I read a post somewhere where a guy trimmed off the plastic edge of the stone to get closer. I'm not willing to bother with that. Too much hassle and they aren't exactly cheap to replace. It's a shame having a thousand dollar sharpener and not being able to sharpen my Spydercos but it is what it is. Only thing I could think of is putting a sharpening choil on the knife. Hate to have to grind too much edge off though. If you come up with something let us know.
 
Several Spydercos seem to have some unsharpened funkiness ahead of ricasso as well. Stretch 2 is what was giving me the trouble at the time I wrote the above.

I would not be opposed to shaving some plastic off, that was one of my thoughts as well - If I had the patience to do it right (would be a pita and like you said not cheap if I botch it)

I find that I have been getting closer as my higher grit paddles which are ceramic seem to get closer. Leather as well. As an aside, they stopped selling the ceramics as I don’t see on their website. I wounder if the platters with tape come closer? Will try to track down some pics.
 
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This is some good information.


 
I have used the coarse diamond rods from a Sharpmaker to make a small choil right at the intersection on a number of Spydies. Solves the problem.

View attachment 2702809View attachment 2702810
I have one of those diamond rods. May give this a try. Shallow choil seems to be a good solution. Looks like it did fine on K390 which also happens to reside in my main spyderco EDCs.

I don’t like deep ones, especially on shorter blades as they can present a snagging issue.

I am post operation but mobile so have nothing but time for the next couple of weeks. Is this what retirement feels like?Going to have to figure out some more hobbies when that time comes in a decade or so 🤔
 
This is some good information.


Thanks - Wonder how he cut the guards off? I was thinking sanding off?
 
I use a Dremel wheel to cut a very shallow notch in the unsharpened portion of the blade. As with anything Dremel related, go slow since you can't put it back.
 
Thanks - Wonder how he cut the guards off? I was thinking sanding off?
I would sand it off on a belt sander. Shouldn't be too bad if you take your time.

The problem for me is grinding all of the various grits. Not worth it in my opinion.
 
No expert but have had the system for almost two years and this seems to be my weak spot at this point.
Same here with my beloved Edge Pro Apex.
Unlike many things in my life I don't get all visually-perfection with my knives. I thin and mod a lot of them, they are all users and as long as the ergos and the way they cut makes me smile and is as good as I can make them with a resonable effort, then a grind line here or there in a mirror edge or a bit of a holiday where you are describing does not bother me (much) and I tell myself I will improve the appearance overtime.

I have a new Wicked Edge and lots of beautiful diamond stones for it that I sometimes just use freehand. I haven't used the sharper system much yet for two reasons :
1. it is not so great for little folders.
2. I very often sharpen at less than 15° perside and refuse to buy all the extra parts to achieve these goals. Being a home shop machinist I plan to mod the original blade clamp but have not made time to do it yet.

Nothing useful to add I'm just commiserating with you and saying sometimes it is OK to relax and just enjoy your knife as it turns out.

Alternatively you can get in there with, say, a couple of Spyderco triangle stones and improve the area you described by hand / unguided. I do that sort of thing from time to time especially on some of these factory grinds that are all over the place angle wise and then markedly over ground at the recaso ( Buck I'm glaring at you). (Love my new aluminum Buck 112 to death though 👍)

PS: The 112 was sharp enough from the factory I'm just saying it is a nightmare to sharpen on flat stones or in a jigged sharpener; Sharpmaker to the rescue.
 
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