Advice from the Masters

S

Salolan

Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
730
In putting together my KITH entry knife, I am doing several firsts for myself. It is the first knife I have done with file work on the tang and it is the first knife I have used a bolster. I dovetailed a walnut bolster to a cherry handle using a paper micarta spacer and liner.

My first question... In epoxying the scales on are there any tricks to keep the epoxy off the ricasso area other than just wiping it clean with mineral spirits or the like? I taped up the entire blade to protect it but part of the ricasso is still exposed. I tried to spread the epoxy thin on the front of the scales to minimize the amount squeezed out and then once I had it clamped and pinned I wiped it down the best I could. I was still left with a small amount of residue to remove after it hardened. Any better ways of doing this?

My second question...In having file work all the way down the top of the tang, I dyed my epoxy black to match the liner. I now have tiny black rings around my pins similar to burn rings from overheating the pins. I used brass all thread as ironically it is easier to source locally than pin stock. I left the holes slightly undersized so the pin would thread through and seat tight to the wood. Did I leave the holes slightly too large or does normal pin stock show less epoxy than the all thread?

Finally, I have seen people advise a certain brand of motor oil to use in hand sanding. Is there something magical about it or will most any oil aid in the process? I have been using a generic brand non detergent 30 weight oil I had left over from another project.

Thank you in advance for sharing yet again the sage advice,
Chris
 
Last edited:
I use Mobil One 5w40 for hand sanding starting with 800 grit, before that I use windex. The Mobil One seems to suspend the grinds and float them away. I use it all the way to 3000 grit. Then polish the blade with Simichrome for a nice mirror finish. For a satin finish I start with it at 400 and take it to 800. Sanding away from the guard.

I use west marine epoxy (gflex) and use alcohol to clean up any excess with a q-tip. It also dyes well. Made a brass tool that is shaped like a small screw driver to scrape excess glue off the blade out of brass.

The rings may be burns as I do the same with rod stock for pins but, I don't get the black rings.
 
I use a windex like product of dry.
I always have acetone ready when using epoxy + the brass scrapers afterwards.
Use aluminium scrapers on brass bronze etc
 
After my blade and handle are ready to glue I cover the ricasso including under the front finished part of the handle with scotch tape. I dry assemble the scales then use a sharpened brass feeler gauge to trim the tape to the front of the scales. I remove the tape from under the scales leaving tape on the ricasso. I tape the front of the scales also and trim the tape flush with the back of the scales. All this leaves a very thin line of glue to be removed when dry, protects the ricasso and the finished part of the scales. I too use a piece of sharpened brass welding rod as a scraper to clean up before removing the scotch tape. Jess
 
Thank you greatly fellas.

After shaping and sanding on the handle, I am pretty positive it was the all thread that cause me my problems. There is only a dark ring on 1 side of each pin and I think it is from minuscule amounts of epoxy just under the thread that was expose when the thread was sanded down.

I will have to use your method for taping Jess, thank you.

Chris
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top