Advice Making Custom G10 Scales

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spydercobenchmadekai

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Sep 26, 2013
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UPDATE: Page 2 has pictures. Page 1 is advice on making the scales.
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Hi--

I am going to be making a few custom G10 scales this winter. I am hoping you could give a little advice.

I already make custom knives, and I have a benchgrinder, dremel, drill press, vise, metal band saw, and various other tools.

However, I have never worked with G10 before. I have ordered several sets of 1/8" thick G10 blanks. I am going to make scales for a Spyderco, several Kershaws, a ZT, and an Ontario RAT 1.

Question 1: I know that inhaling particles of G10 is dangerous. Is a respirator such as this: http://usaknifemaker.com/3m-particulate-respirator-8511-n95.html good enough?

Question 2: Should I trace the origional scales onto the new G10 and cut them out, or should I clamp the G10 onto the metal liner and grind it to the profile of the liner? I have seen both, and I am wondering which is better.

Question 3: Is there anything else I should know before making the scales?

Thanks in advance!

P.S. I will post pictures of the scales and knives with them once complete. :)
 
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Great questions, I am in the same situation, I am interested in making some custom scales. Do the answers to the questions above apply to Micarta as well?
 
Yes, I think the same questions would apply. However, I think Micarta is much safer than G10. (More like wood--you don't want to breath it but it isn't fiberglass.)

Don't forget to post pictures. :D
 
AddictedToGear said:
Do the answers to the questions above apply to Micarta as well?
Click to expand...
Yes.

spydercobenchmadekai said:
Question 1: I know that inhaling particles of G10 is dangerous. Is a respirator such as this: http://usaknifemaker.com/3m-particulate-respirator-8511-n95.html good enough?
Click to expand...

Maybe... maybe not. I don't have any experience with that model. I use one similar to this with replaceable filter cartridges:
1586.jpg


Use some manner of dust-collection while working; even a cheap box fan with a furnace filter pulling the dirty air away from you and the work will help. If you really want to keep dust under control, work wet. Tile-cutting saws that run with the "blade" in a pool of water work well for cutting G10. Some people even do their handwork (filing, sanding) with the workpiece held in a tub of water so there's no way dust can float around. Wear a hat and long sleeves and when you're done, vacuum (don't sweep or blow) all the dust off your bench/filter/clothes etc. before removing your respirator.

spydercobenchmadekai said:
Question 2: Should I trace the origional scales onto the new G10 and cut them out, or should I clamp the G10 onto the metal liner and grind it to the profile of the liner?
Click to expand...

Either way will work, it just depends on which way you're more comfortable. Take your time.

spydercobenchmadekai said:
Question 3: Is there anything else I should know before making the scales?
Click to expand...

G10 will scorch badly if you grind it too fast and allow heat to build up; micarta is not quite as touchy but still requires care. Take your time.
 
Thanks. I will recieve the G10 in a week or so, and will update after I start cutting it. I heard of aiming a shopvac at the G10 while grinding/cutting to suck away the dust. What do you think of that idea?

Thanks again.
 
I prefer to cut close to size then use a wood belt grinder to get it closer. Final fitting I do by hand. In any case, work slow, as has been mentioned.

Are you doing a dremel sanding drum scale like a Benchmade Rift for contrast, or a traditional scale? Just curious.
 
1. I personally prefer a cartridge style respirator over the paper masks, as they can be cinched up tighter and tend to seal around the face a little better. You might also like a product called the "Resp-o-rator", which uses a mouthpiece similar to that of a snorkel/scuba tank and positions the filters behind your head.

2. I would do both. First trace/scribe the scales, and then cut them as close as you feel comfortable. Than clean them up to the liners. Might want to finish with hand sanding as this will give you a little more control.

3. Use sharp bits. If polishing, make sure to remove all scratches from the previous grits. Don't assume anythign is perfectly flat/parallell when you get it. ;)
 
Use the best respirator you can buy.... Ask yourself, are my lungs worth it? Small particles have a tendency to get everywhere!
Check out the 3m 6000, you can find them for around $20. It protects well and still lets you still feel free when you move around.
As mentioned above, sharp bits are a must! Also grinding in front of a shop vac wouldn't hurt either.
I use a small band saw to cut a rough rectangle (about 1/4" bigger than my scale)
I clamp my G-10 to my scale. I use a thin felt tip marker and mark a line tracing around the scale or liner's edge onto the G10. I like to mark the pivot, stop pin and other scale screw holes.
Before i start grinding, i drill the pivot hole and put a screw with a nut thru it to hold it steady. I use the screws and a small clamp.
(I prefer to use the scale so i don't damage the threads on the liner when i drill thru)
Next I'll drill the stop pin hole and put a screw thru it as well. The relation between the stop pin and the pivot has to be pretty accurate, if not you will not be centered... and the lockup will be off, sometimes way off.
Next I'll use my Dremel with a 1/2" rough sanding drum to get the G10 down to the top of the black felt line i made earlier (gives you about 1/16" or so buffer from the actual liner /scale size).
Once you get to this point, I like to counter bore my holes and assemble the knife to make sure it will center and opens properly.... The rest is just hand sanding / fine tuning!
Check to make sure the lock up and centering is ok. At this point i like to take the knife apart and just have the scale attached to the liner. I then use my belt sander to do the finishing matching of the new scales to the liners.
Hope this helps,
Best of luck!
 
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dcmartin: Wow! Great advice. That sounds like the procedure I will follow. The 3m 6000 sounds great--I just bought it based on your recomendation. :)

Is there any special advice on lining up the pivot/stop pin?

Thanks so much!
 
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In case anyone is wondering, I am planning on using these colors:

Jade Ghost, Blue and Black 2x2 layered, and Yellow.

I am putting scales on these knives:

Spyderco Tenacious, Kershaw JYD 2, Kershaw Rexford Injection, Kershaw Thermite, ZT 350, and Ontario RAT 1.

Of course, I will remove the Speedsafe from the knives that have it. I don't have the tools to mill out pockets in the scales.
 
I would highly, highly suggest actually glueing the original scales to your g10. If you glue the backs of the g10 to the back of the original scales with some hot glue, this will dramatically increase your F&F, as well as it'll be 100% easier putting everything together. :)
 
JAKs Bladeworks said:
I would highly, highly suggest actually glueing the original scales to your g10. If you glue the backs of the g10 to the back of the original scales with some hot glue, this will dramatically increase your F&F, as well as it'll be 100% easier putting everything together. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will try that. How do you remove the new scale from the old one after drilling/grinding?
 
JAKs Bladeworks said:
I would highly, highly suggest actually glueing the original scales to your g10. If you glue the backs of the g10 to the back of the original scales with some hot glue, this will dramatically increase your F&F, as well as it'll be 100% easier putting everything together. :)
Click to expand...

Cool idea. I'll try that the next time I make scales. I always use tape.

Separate them with a little heat. Hot water, blow dryer etc...

I imagine that you could use a tiny bit of super glue as well. Not a drop, just a little bit from the tip. Or spray adhesive. Or a bunch of other stuff. :)
 
Thanks so much for all the advise, everyone. A new question:

I noticed on the Spyderco Tenacious that there is a milled pocket in the lockside G10 scale. I belive this is to allow the linerlock to compensate for the detent when the blade is being closed. Is this correct? Will I need to mill that pocket into the new G10 scale?


 
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Yes you will need to make some sort of relief pocket. You are correct that it compensates for the detent.

I have made wood scales for a Tenacious and a couple of other liner locks. I used a chisel to rough it out, then cleaned it up with a dremel.

Keep us posted on your progress!

Ric
 
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