Advice needed on a hatchet

Silly Rabbit

Silly Rabbit

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Jun 9, 2010
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I'm in the market for a full tang hatchet
Must be full tang
Must have a hammer implement opposite the blade

Big is ok I won't be carrying it any distance overall length into the 20s inches ok but I'm not sure of anything full tang construction that large

Cutting power/ability is top concern (as well as extreme durability)

Anyone know anything about this Barebones Hatchet?

IMG_1898.JPG



Another option but way to pricey (I think) is the RMJ Jenny Wren




IMG_1899.JPG

Any comments? Suggestions? Others I should check out?

Thanks

Jeff
 
I've tried a many over the years, for some reason most of the people who make them feel the overwhelming urge to make them more like a 4inch knife with a 14 inch handle. Ultimately, every one I've ever used failed at the one thing they were supposed to do: Be an ax.
My Winkler and RMJ were better suited for being a hammer and cutting small things. The Estwing isn't bad, but it is also $30 vs $400-600.
 
Someone here confirmed that the larger Estwing axes have a tubular section in the handle, not totally solid.

previously posted by Liam Ryan:
"I have the bigger rubber handled Estwing and I took the handle off to shorten and lighten it, and the rubber is covering a hollow tube, which is somehow attached to the neck of the head. I was a bit put off by this and now use my fiskars mostly.
I like the look of the estwings hatchets with the leather washer handles a lot though... just checked and there's about 2.5 inches of material going past the weld, and the tube itself is pretty beefy too."
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...forged-one-piece-steel.1286386/#post-14742646
 
Steve Tall said:
Someone here confirmed that the larger Estwing axes have a tubular section in the handle, not totally solid.
Click to expand...

Didn't use to be that way. Used to be solid. Either way they are tough well built tools like everything Estwing makes. Their I-beam prybars are the best prybars anyone has ever made. Their 20 oz. straight claw hammer hangs on the belt of 80% of commercial concrete form setters in the NW. I keep one of each of those in my kit. Their smaller prybars are also excellent. All their stuff is well made.

All that said their axes and hatchets are too thin. When toughness isn't the primary concern I reach for somethhing wood handled with better geometry. I use Estwing for form work but will choose Vaugahn for framing or finish work.

When I used to work for the local DNR my partner kept the larger Estwing axe in the truck as his primary axe. I had many opportunities to use it. It's bullet proof but too thin and a little sticky because of that. I kept a vintage Collins boys axe in the truck for myself and it easily out cut his Estwing.
 
Steve Tall said:
Someone here confirmed that the larger Estwing axes have a tubular section in the handle, not totally solid.

previously posted by Liam Ryan:
"I have the bigger rubber handled Estwing and I took the handle off to shorten and lighten it, and the rubber is covering a hollow tube, which is somehow attached to the neck of the head. I was a bit put off by this and now use my fiskars mostly.
I like the look of the estwings hatchets with the leather washer handles a lot though... just checked and there's about 2.5 inches of material going past the weld, and the tube itself is pretty beefy too."
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...forged-one-piece-steel.1286386/#post-14742646
Click to expand...
Yes indeed large one has that tube
But the riggers ax is solid throughout
I'll probably watch for a vintage larger ax if they are indeed one piece
 
I'm pretty sure the large ones have always been tubular construction. It'd be stupid-heavy to have that ovoid cross section at the handle if it was solid.
 
The large Estwings have had a tubular section going back to 1958, when I bought my first one. I have bought more over the years since for different work purposes and always a tubular handle section. That being said, I still have the one I bought in 1958 (including the ratty sheath) and it is still fine. Even the blue rubbery handle part is still there.
 
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