Advice needed on Micrometers and Ti Thickness

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Dec 7, 2008
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Finally got my Frame lock design to work :De
Now need to be a bit more precise and make some stiffer frames.

What is the Difference between a Mechanical Digital Micrometer and an Electronic one in terms of accuracy and longevity?

What thickness of Ti might be best for a smallish Frame lock folder around 3" closed ? (G10 one side Ti on the lock side)
 
I have all 3 types, Vernier, digit and digital. The verniers are pretty much bullet proof so long as you do not throw them across the shop. The digits used in conjunction with the vernier scale are just as accurate and easier to read when tolerances are not as critical. If you keep them clean and don't drop them they will last a long time. The full digitals are pretty much the industry standard. They are accurate out to .00005 in some cases. They are sensitive. I had a $200 starrett die when I changed the battery. I could send it back to the factory and they will replace it for $75. I just have to get around to it. I just do not get into the 50 millionths measurements anymore. A good micrometer that reads in the .0001 range will do you just fine for knifemaking. Even a good .001 set would work, just have to be a little more careful in your measurements.
 
I got a digital and went back to my dial, I just could not get used to turning it on and off and reset the zero each time. By I have used a dial for so long that I am just hard to train. 1/8 Ti would probable be the thinnest I would go, thicker may 3/16 gives a more sturdy look and helps balance with the G10 side but may be heavy for only 3" closed.
 
You can pick up a reliable digital at HF for next to nuthin. Cen-tech makes a good one. By the time you wear it out you should have a pretty good idea if you need an expensive one.
 
Cen-techs are junk, don't waste your $$$.

Get some decent dial calipers for anything you only need to measure within a couple thousandths, and a decent Micrometer for things that need to be more accurate.

I have traditional Mic's that I inherited that are 60+ years old, and are still used regularly.
I also have Mitutoyo dial calipers that are about 20 years old now.

Can't vouch for the longevity of digitals, except the Cen-techs which are far too hit or miss.

On a small framelock like that, I like to get Ti to match the thickness of your Laminate so things are pretty symmetrical.
 
I think you all are talking about calipers. There is a big difference in accuracy between them and micrometers. If you want to do high precision work, a Mic is needed. Many get by with a caliper and much of my measuring is done with one. For folders I would be using a micrometer.
 
For folders, you probably use both.

I do.

Decent dial calipers for anything you only need to measure within a couple thousandths, layouts, etc... and a decent Micrometer for things that need to be more accurate.
 
Yes have a couple Calipers but need/want to be more precise than they get.
Every time I turn around the Digital Caliper needs a new battery it is a PIA.

Looking like 1/8" Ti will work with the bend point releaved. Keeping the thickness matching is a good thing... Thanks Brian
 
Calipers are good for layout micrometers for measurement. Starrett, Mitutoyo, and Browne and Sharpe are the only way to go for micrometers. For critical layout work I use a Browne and Sharpe caliper. I have a couple digital cen-techs from HF, they are ok for jewelry layout but not repeatable from day to day against themselves, and not truly accurate, I use them for transferring measurements as a hard scribe on layout blue

-Page
 
Cen-techs are junk, don't waste your $$$.

Get some decent dial calipers for anything you only need to measure within a couple thousandths, and a decent Micrometer for things that need to be more accurate.

I have traditional Mic's that I inherited that are 60+ years old, and are still used regularly.
I also have Mitutoyo dial calipers that are about 20 years old now.

Can't vouch for the longevity of digitals, except the Cen-techs which are far too hit or miss.

On a small framelock like that, I like to get Ti to match the thickness of your Laminate so things are pretty symmetrical.

LOL no doubt they are junk, but mine has held up with no problems for years and years. I've used it in reloading thousands of rounds of pistol and rifle ammo. So I say again, by the time you wear it out, you'll know if you need to spend money on an nicer model.
 
I've received 3 over the last couple of years as gifts from well meaning friends.

Not one of them has been worth the price of a replacement battery, which by the way they go through FAST.
 
That's odd, I'm just now working on the spare battery that came with it. I must have got one of the few good ones.
 
I have several centec calipers laying around for fast measurements. I also have the mititoyo and a fowler for when I get down and dirty. For the really accurate stuff I have the starrett and mititoyo mics in vernier, digit and digital. I had some cheaper mics but once I got the good ones from my uncle (Sam) I sold off the cheaper ones. I have only had one set of Centec calipers die outright on me. The rest have lasted a long time on the first battery. Only replaced one so far, going on 3-4 years now. always leave them on too.
 
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