Advice on a Kitchen Steel

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Sharp Steel

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My searching did not hit the right keywords for this sub-forum, so I am starting a new thread.

What is your experience with the rods used for steeling kitchen knives? They seem to run the gamut.

* Is one style preferred over others?
* Will a ceramic one break if dropped?
* Is there an optimum size for multiple length blades?
* Any kind to avoid or will one you find in the discount home goods store be good enough?
 
I use my kitchen steel more than anything else I have to maintain my knives.

Many of the new kitchen steels are too rough for my liking.

The one I use the most is much longer than what I find in stores and it is over 60 years old. I think it is made by a company called “Lee”.

If you want a nice one, look at what
F. Dick has to offer. German made. Nice kit.
 
First, if your knife is HRC60+, don't use a steel, use a ceramic rod. Steels are for knives with softer heat treatments.
Yes, ceramic rods will break if you drop them.
There is no harm in having a longer steel, but a shorter steel with a long knife is a bit clumsy.

Outside of a professional environment, where speed and space are an issue, I'd personally rather strop or pull out a stone.
 
I have one I like. It is from the Shun Premier line, came as a bundle with a knife block of theirs. It is a round steel, and the handle has a flat section which is angled, so that if you place the flat of the blade against it, the knife edge is at 15 degrees to the steel, which makes it easy to get a feel for the right honing angle.

It has mild vertical ridges running down two sides of the steel, and the other two sides are smooth. The ridges are not significant and don't abrade, but provide a little extra pressure for quickly smoothing out rougher edges.

I don't actually use it with my Shun knives, which are around 61 HRC, but it does great with some cheaper knives with softer steels, for a quick edge fixup without using a stone.

A ceramic hone is in fact a sharpening rod, so it actually abrades off some of the knife steel. A metal hone is more of an edge straighter that can also do a little burnishing, but unless you get one of the heavily textured ones, is not actually grinding off any of the blade steel.

It really depends on what you need to do. Different tools for different purposes.
 
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I use a smooth steel from victorinox, it was fairly inexpensive especially compared to the fdick and it should be around 65-68rhc, harder then probably 90%+ of kitchen knives. The victorinox steel is 10 inches long which works but I think longer, 12-14 inches, would be better. Ceramic works well too.
 
I NEVER use a rod. I just sharpen real quick on a water stone.
7" seems a common size I think. I prefer the 10.5" knives.
 
I really don't know the name brand of my steel in the kitchen. I acquired it from my friend who is a butcher in the local supermarket. I would guess it's a Victorinox because the first kitchen knife I got from him was. It has served me for over 40 years and still goin g. I agree with the gentleman who stated that most of the steels you get now days are very rough. in fact too rough. they don't help keep the knife sharp but really wear it down too quickly. Just my opinion.
 
R Hensley said:
I really don't know the name brand of my steel in the kitchen. I acquired it from my friend who is a butcher in the local supermarket. I would guess it's a Victorinox because the first kitchen knife I got from him was. It has served me for over 40 years and still goin g. I agree with the gentleman who stated that most of the steels you get now days are very rough. in fact too rough. they don't help keep the knife sharp but really wear it down too quickly. Just my opinion.
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I found the name on my steel and it turns out to be a HENCKEL. I had to put my glasses on because the stamp was so small. I do know it works good.
 
My most used knife in the kitchen is a Finnish made knife, made by Knivo (www.knivo.fi) their Keittioveitsi model (looks like a Santuko), HRC 58 in 80CRV2 steel. I use an Eze-Lap, 10 inch Diamond Hone, a beaver tail shaped one, hit the edge with a few strokes before using it, and it works fine for my needs. John
 
nickycat spoke of F. Dick, and at a friend's machine shop while I was there a professional butcher came in to get a new metal sheath made for his F.Dick steel. A beaver tailed shaped one, that he used everyday at his job. He too spoke very highly about that steel. John
 
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No, higher in the center, with a very slight downward towards the edge of the steel, and on both sides, almost elliptical John
 
OK, I saw those too. Wanted to clarify. Saw some that were "football shaped", listed as oval, but what you're saying sounds like a milder version of that. Are they listed as beavertail I wonder?
 
Been a while since I saw that professional butcher's F. Dick steel and the closest I can find on the F.Dick site is an 11 inch Fine Cut Multicut steel. I do remember the butcher saying he would smooth out the surface of the steel till it met his satisfaction. Listed as a HRC 66. John
 
* Is one style preferred over others?
My preference has always been the older steels that are smooth, not ribbed. Primary function of a steel is to realign the edge, not sharpen it.

* Will a ceramic one break if dropped?
Yes, they are easily broken, but a good ceramic rod will realign an edge and also sharpen the apex.

* Is there an optimum size for multiple length blades?
Anyware between 20-30 cm ( 8" - 12" ).

* Any kind to avoid or will one you find in the discount home goods store be good enough?
Try to find an old smooth steel at a second hand shop, check to make sure there are no nicks or dents in the rod.
 
Stockman said:
* Is one style preferred over others?
My preference has always been the older steels that are smooth, not ribbed. Primary function of a steel is to realign the edge, not sharpen it.

* Will a ceramic one break if dropped?
Yes, they are easily broken, but a good ceramic rod will realign an edge and also sharpen the apex.

* Is there an optimum size for multiple length blades?
Anyware between 20-30 cm ( 8" - 12" ).

* Any kind to avoid or will one you find in the discount home goods store be good enough?
Try to find an old smooth steel at a second hand shop, check to make sure there are no nicks or dents in the rod.
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I’ve bought 2. Both from my local butcher. He works with knives and steels for a living so I think he should know which ones are good 👍
 
What kind of knives do you have? I use a Messermeister steel but almost all my knives are European vs Japanese.
 
BDubbs said:
What kind of knives do you have? I use a Messermeister steel but almost all my knives are European vs Japanese.
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I have a pair of one off pieces from a home goods store. One of them is a Palm Restaurant brand, the other Richardson Sheffield. No steel information on either of them.
 
Sharp Steel said:
I have a pair of one off pieces from a home goods store. One of them is a Palm Restaurant brand, the other Richardson Sheffield. No steel information on either of them.
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I’d guess a normal steel honing rod from any of the reputable manufacturers would be fine. I keep my knives tuned up with them which cuts down on unnecessary sharpening and extends blade life.
 
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