advice on a milling machine

ysforge

ysforge

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Jan 10, 2005
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I need to get a small bench top size milling machine, and only have a fairly small budget, but I know having one will make life easier, and make a lot of things go a lot faster.

I need to be able to work with unhardened steel as well as brass aluminum and some plastics, and I imagine that most of the work will be on knife size projects, but I do some gun-smithing as well, and need to be able to make a few small parts. probably nothing bigger than a small machine can handle.

I know that I probably will be happier with the biggest most powerful machine I can afford, but I have to say the micro-mill over at harbour freight that's on sale for $259 is looking kinda tempting, what do you guys think of the machine? and am I missing a deal somewhere else?

I also have only a limited space for the machine, as I'm still in a shared shop and can't bring anything in that 2 or 3 guys can't pick up and move, I'm in the process of getting permits and what-not to build my new shop, but it'll be 6 months or so before there's any chance I can move anything.

I appreciate the help
Tony
 
Tony I know several makers that use that very mill and they like it just fine. I have heard from Bill Vining that he wished it plunge cut better than it does but for the money you can't hardly expect much more.

I'm getting one myself after speaking with Bill about it. Just look at the knives he makes with it. Pretty good selling tool if you ask me.

He can probably tell you more if you ask him.

http://www.medawebs.com/knives/shoppics.htm
 
I'd also like to know what people think about these, or is it a waste of $$ and people would rather save for the mini-mill from HF? I'd be using it basically as a glorified drill press to make nice squared up holes for folders. Maybe actually do some milling if I'd figure out on what and how (nested liners, something like that, assuming I can make a working folder to begin with!). Is this machine any more square than a cheap drill press?
 
Take a look at http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Versions/versions.htm

They have reviews of each of the Chinese import mini mills (edit: yes, and Micro-mills too), which are all slightly different. I don't own one myself, but I've heard other people mention this site.

There's also a brand of mini mill made in the USA, at http://www.taigtools.com/

edit: another one at http://www.sherline.com/
Taig and Sherline mini mills but they seem to be similar in size to the "micro" mill made by Harbor Freight that ysforge linked to.
 
You guys are getting this issue all confused! Ysforge is asking about the MICRO mill, which is a different product from the MINI mill, which is what everyone else is linking to. The mini's are supposed to be decent machines with a standard R8 spindle, whatever that means. Most people seem to suggest saving your money for the mini unless you absolutely have to have the micro, or really will never use the mini's extra capacity. Most people also recommend breaking these machines down completely and doing a bunch of cleanup and some mods right off the bat.
 
Some of the off-shore mini mills can be rough and need some cleanup, but I have never heard of the Taig or the Sherline needing modification. Both are precision machines and have quite a reputation for accuracy. However, you do pay for them. A Taig starts at about $800 - $850 the last I checked. I think Terry Primos uses a Taig.
 
Specifications: "Motor: 120V, 60 Hz, 1/5 HP; Speeds: 100-1000 RPM low, 100-2000 RPM high; Capacities: drill 25/64'', end mill 25/64'', face mill 3/4''...

I've never even heard of a 3/4" face mill! Heck, I use end mills bigger than that! :D


It's always difficult to sell someone on an idea if it involves a lot more money than they're thinking about. But, since you asked for opinions, I'd suggest one of the 1hp to 2hp bench mills that takes R8 tooling. The castings and finish on mine were good enough to upgrade to a 3HP Varible Speed system, and I can actually use a 5" diameter face mill.

32694371-d850-0200016B-.jpg
 
Oops - I forgot to explain what 'R8" tooling is ......


In layman's terms (the kind even I understand) "R8" is a system that uses a taper in conjunction with a drawbar to hold the toolholder in place. R8 collets are available with various diameter holes to insert cylindrical shank tools like end mills, slitting saw arbors etc. The drawbar is threaded into the opposite end of the collet. When the collet is drawn up into the spindle with the drawbar, the collet compresses around the tool shank, holding it securely in place. Using a collet to hold end mills is generally more accurate than using an end mill holder, in part by the fact that the extension of the cutter from the spindle nose is minimized and by the fact that the collet applies equal pressure from all sides - keeping things on center.

You can also get end mill holders (and various other tool holders like tapping heads, and drill chuck arbors) in the R8 configuration. Like the collets, these are drawn into the spindle with a threaded drawbar and held in a tapered seat. (Most R8 tools also use a keyway to keep them from spinning in the spindle.)

So, to change tooling - you just loosen the drawbar with a wrench, tap on the end of the drawbar with a soft faced mallet, and the tool pops out of the spindle. Insert the next tool, retighten the drawbar, and you're ready to go.

There are a number of other "standard taper" tools - such as 5C, 16C, 3J, Morse Tapers, and Cat V-flanges that have been designed for different applications and families of machines, but most "smaller" milling machines (including floor model Bridgeports) usually use R8 tooling. Generally speaking, it's faster, more accurate, and a lot safer than trying to hold onto your tools with a standard drill chuck.
 
Tom Anderson said:
Specifications: "Motor: 120V, 60 Hz, 1/5 HP; Speeds: 100-1000 RPM low, 100-2000 RPM high; Capacities: drill 25/64'', end mill 25/64'', face mill 3/4''...

I've never even heard of a 3/4" face mill! Heck, I use end mills bigger than that! :D


It's always difficult to sell someone on an idea if it involves a lot more money than they're thinking about. But, since you asked for opinions, I'd suggest one of the 1hp to 2hp bench mills that takes R8 tooling. The castings and finish on mine were good enough to upgrade to a 3HP Varible Speed system, and I can actually use a 5" diameter face mill.

32694371-d850-0200016B-.jpg
Click to expand...



Hey, I like that Idea of putting a glass shield on the vise :thumbup:
 
I ended up getting nothing, just no space in the shop for even the little machines!

When my new shop is done I'll have room for a "real" mill, along with all the tools I have in storage right now.
 
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