Advice on doing a scale

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IceCreamNKnives

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May 30, 2022
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Hey all
I just recently ordered a Steel Will Piercer with the titanium framelock side and G10 front scale. . Both scales look to be just solid slabs with no milling.

1- I was wanting to buy a suitable Fat Carbon/ Camo Carbon Carbon Fiber scale blank 2 X 6 inches. And one drill bit if possible- what type of drill bit should I get? Like brand wise ?

2- What grit sand paper should I use ? What Type of Tung oil should I use?

Anything else I need just to get this project done? Thanks for your help.
 
It looks like you would need at least two drill bits, one for the pivot, and one for the handle screws. And if you wanted to countersink the heads of the pivot and handle screws, then that would require two more bits.

For drilling carbon fiber, carbide or diamond coated carbide bits are recommended. But such bits are expensive. McMaster's sells such bits. If you go to McMaster and do a search for "drill bits for carbon fiber" you will see them.

I assume you have a drill press. Because attempting such a project with a hand drill would likely not succeed.
 
You're gonna need 3 or probably 4 bits. You need to drill holes for the screws to fit through, that go all the way through the scale, but also to make wider shallow holes for the screw heads to fit down into.- although for those you want flat end bits not pointy ones. But any drill bit brand should work for CF (at least for your small project). However you also want a drill press to make sure your holes are perfectly 90 degrees

I see no reason to use tung oil on cf, it's not porous like wood.

You will need fine grit sandpaper to get a nice polish on the cf, and buffing is best, do you have a Dremel?

Oh I cross posted with Killgar, we have similar thoughts.

ETA: practice making a cheap wood or plastic scale until that works perfectly once assembled, before tearing into your expensive cf scale!
 
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Thanks guys i appreciate everything you all said.

I was a master carpenter before my injury- I don’t have a drill press anymore. I understand that a drill press is recommended- that’s why I haven’t tried this for the last couple years. But I really want to give it a shot- I’ve hit 90s before with hand drills in carpentry. So I’m hoping I can do it with the scales but we’ll see.

I have a lot of drill bits for wood and some for metal/ceramic. Do you think they could work? It’d save me money. My thinking was use really small bits and then get larger to the proper hole size . That way I have a small amount of wiggle room if I need to adjust the angle.

I have a dremel and scrap sanding paper.

I’d like to use Desert Ironwood for the test scale- anything I need to know about finishing it? Is it ok NOT to stain it or eurathane it?

Thanks guys
 
Folding knife scales really require some specific equipment to do properly.

Because lock function and smooth opening depend on tight tolerances, an exact 90 degree hole is critical. Likewise the size of the holes through the scales needs to be exact, so you should check screw diameter with a micrometer, then check if your metal/ceramic bits are a precise match. If the holes aren't perfect you will get slop. I think Dremel has a mount to make it a mini drill press.

So, your first test scale should be something disposable not nice.

Desert ironwood doesn't really need any protectant, but you can add it if you want to change the color or to protect the color from uv degradation / darkening from hand oils.

ETA: don't forget to work in a area with some breeze, and best to use a mask, esp for CF you don't want that in your lungs!!!
 
The problem with working on carbon fiber is the potential for fraying of the fibers and delamination. I recommend using brand new (sharp as possible) drill bits. Of course I would also recommend using a drill press. Due to the issues I mentioned working on CF, it's all the more important that drilling be a precise as possible.

Good luck.
 
IceCreamNKnives said:
What Type of Tung oil should I use?
Click to expand...
Depends on your time frame, patience and finish you want. There is 100% tung oil, which needs time to cure, or tung oil mixture with hardening agents. This cures fast, and depending on how many coats gives a glossier finish. You may also want to look at Tru-Oil made for gunstocks, this can give a really high gloss finish and seals the covers. But i am talking about wood, your needs may differ.
 
One more quick comment about carbon fiber: take the PPE seriously. You don’t want to breath that stuff at all and it makes me itch terribly. Be careful 👍
 
I don't want carbon fiber in my shop. It's nasty and dangerous to grind.
There is no reason to use tung oil on carbon fiber. It will polish. Tung oil will just sit on top.
 
I never realized how hard carbon fiber was until I read this thread. I had to mask up and try to polish a little bevel on a pocketknife to see for myself.

WOW! That stuff is hard! So it is hard as Hell, and it can kill you. I agree with Bill. I don't want that stuff around!
 
Breathing in the dust from just about any common knife handle material is unhealthy, even wood. Wood naturally contains formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. And then there are the chemicals some use to treat wood, and the glues used in wood laminates.

Micarta and G10 dust are also dangerous. I'd say G10 (fiberglass) dust is just as dangerous as carbon fiber dust.

I use G10 more than any other handle material. When I do any sanding of G10 I wear a mask, with a large fan blowing across me, and I have a shop vac attached to my disc sander to suck up the dust.
 
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