Advice on grit

K

kapina001

Joined
May 21, 2006
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I am getting started with knive making. I got the Loveless tape and watched it about 50 times. I got the Grizzly grinder and have about 6 knives that are not worth heat treating. It looks much easier to hollow grind on the tape. I started out with ATS34 but went to 1095 on advice from Blade magazine. I can screw up 1095 much cheaper than ATS34. The last couple have started to look much more like I thought the first one would look, though, so maybe there is hope yet.

Anyway, I saw in some of the posts that some of you use 36 grit. Do you use 36 just to get to the knife outline, or are you using it to start the bevel also? I am using 60 to start with and until I get the hollow going well and have gone through a lot of belts. Do you go from 36 to 60, or something in between?
 
I usually start with 60 grit, although when in a hurry on a simpler knife I've been known to use 50 grit. In the old days I would start with 36 grit as the belts back in the day were lousy. Do not use your fresh belts to start the bevel. the tape mentiones this. Mike Lovett http://www.lovettknives.com/
 
Start of with filing to learn, than after e few knifes start using powertools.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
Start of with filing to learn, than after e few knifes start using powertools.
Click to expand...

I thought about starting with files, but I do not see how that will shorten the learning curve when starting with power tools. I would just as soon screw up a few knives starting out on power tools as making some knives with files and then screwing up some on power tools. I just do not see how files get you ready for grinding with power. I do believe in paying your dues, but I am too old to spend time making knives with files.
 
I start with 50 grit. It cuts well and lasts a good amount of time. The reason I choose it over 36 grit is because you can't feel the grind nearly as well with 36 grit. Sight, sound and feel are all important when grinding.
 
Well, powertools are a lot faster and more agressive than handtools.
I found that becouse they are faster, if you make a mistake, it will have a very large impact and perhaps even ruin all the work you have done. (on that knife)
Where as if you only use handtools the damage you've done will be a lot less by the time you understand your mistake. There will be a good chance that you can work around the mistake.

I found this in my job as well. I make orthopedic shoes. I started off using only handtools. I found that becouse you have a better control, you will work more acurate and you understand the process better. Than if you start using powertools as well, all you do is speed things up a bit, but you still have the same control over the process. I found my work to be more acurate that that done by collegues who started off with powertools from the start.

But this is only my oppinion. Enjoy your hobby :)
 
I too bought a Grizzly grinder. Based on advice from Northcoast knives, I also picked up the 10" grinding wheel. I started by purchasing belts from 80 - 800 grit. I wanted something that bit faster, so I picked up some norton blue belts in 60 grit... still not as fast as I wanted, so finally, I got some Norton "Blaze" orange belts in 24 Grit... I LOVE them. But then again, my first few projects were reasonable size, and I've used 1/4 inch stock for several of them. However, after roughing out, I quickly back down into the 80 and higher range.
 
Even with the best grinder and belts there are still things that must be done with a file. Good filing skills are just as important as good grinding skills. Most of my knives are a 50/50 combo of filing and grinding.
 
I use 36, 50 and 120 grit. Finish off with scotchbrite belts.
Scott
 
I have seen mention here many times to start off on thin pieces of wood. Shape them just as you would a blade and grind the same also. Would drasticly speed the learning curve while also being easy on the pocket.
Matt Doyle
 
Filing skills are important and will be usfull in your projects. I started on a 6" $300 3x48 belt grinder then graduated to a square wheel. I have found that a variable speed grinder was and still is very usefull to me. The slower speed enhances my control. After I have my control established I speed up the grinder and go to a faster cutting(new) belt. But I still stick to 60for rough shaping. R.W. Wilson once told me to cut out 15 blanks and grind them in sets of five. And when I got to # 15 I would see a tremendous difference as well as a difference between the 3 sets. He uses 60/80, 150, 320, 400 then a worn out 400 with spray lub on it. This worls great. But ask 5 different makers and they will probably have five different formulas.

In the end you just have to keep trying different methods until you find what works for you.

Randy
 
P.S. Might try brass bar stock for practice. I get mine from a metal supply house and ask for remnants. They usually provide a price break if they don't have to cut.

Of course there is the theory that if you are working on more valuable material you will be more carefull.

Good Luck
 
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