Advice on sharpening a Kershaw Offset

G

Gamble xMYQx

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Feb 21, 2008
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3
I recently purchased a Kershaw Offset. The blade has a "S" shape to it the front part is easy to sharpen it's the rear part with the concave profile I'm having trouble with. What is the best way to sharpen this back part. I currently use and have a lanskey system. I'm very good with it. I just don't want to mess up this knife it's a one of the 1st 1000 peaces.

Thanks for any help!
 
Gamble xMYQx said:
I recently purchased a Kershaw Offset. The blade has a "S" shape to it the front part is easy to sharpen it's the rear part with the concave profile I'm having trouble with. What is the best way to sharpen this back part. I currently use and have a lanskey system. I'm very good with it. I just don't want to mess up this knife it's a one of the 1st 1000 peaces.

Thanks for any help!
Click to expand...

I have a Kershaw Vapor. It also has a recurve to the blade. I use the GATCO. It works great for this blade.

The GATCO is similar to the Lansky. The Lansky has narrower stones than the GATCO so I would assume that the Lansky will do a fine job.
 
I EDC the vapor and use the lansky kit on it.

The lansky works....but to be brutally honest I got tired of having to work the recurve...so I gave it an appointment with Mr. Dremel.

The lansky does work, but it's just a pain. Obviously my route isn't an option for you. I'd look at the Spyderco sharpener or so other type of "crock-stick" system.
 
The only common system that can handle recurves (or hawkbills) like that is the ceramic stick system, like the Spyderco one.

If you are particularly methodical, another option is to get an Edge Pro, extra mounting blanks, and adhere a ceramic Triangle stick to one.

-j
 
I will respectfully disagree. For me the GATCO works great on my Kershaw Vapor.

I do not do anything different than I do with any other blade.

The only trouble I have is that there isn't a flat on the sides of the blade at the spine so clamping can be tricky. Once I get her clamped in evenly and centered it goes great.
 
I use my Spyderco Sharpmaker for my Kershaw recurves as long as they aren't very dull, and it works great.

The lansky type sharpeners do work pretty well, but the stones don't sit right on recurves. The angled stone meant for serrated edges work but they don't have many grit offerings.
 
Guess I am a little old school, but I use bench stones along with a small triangle hand held stone. It DOES take some time and practice, but it can be done. Most that I have talked to suggest a rod for the blades like that.
 
Hard H2O said:
I will respectfully disagree. For me the GATCO works great on my Kershaw Vapor.

I do not do anything different than I do with any other blade.

The only trouble I have is that there isn't a flat on the sides of the blade at the spine so clamping can be tricky. Once I get her clamped in evenly and centered it goes great.
Click to expand...

Is the one you're using like a Lansky? Clamped on the blade, hone is on a guide, with a ~0.5" width stone?

They work pretty well but personally I don't feel they cut rapidly enough to reprofile a recurve.

Also, the Vapor has a pretty gentle recurve. For something like a 3" hawkbill or a steep recurve -- like the EKI Commander or the Offset or Tyrade, I find that the squareness of the hone doesn't cut properly, or the curve beats up the hone's trueness pretty badly.

Included in the Sharpmaker category is any kind of ovaloid or circular diamond hone as well.

-j
 
biogon said:
Is the one you're using like a Lansky? Clamped on the blade, hone is on a guide, with a ~0.5" width stone?

They work pretty well but personally I don't feel they cut rapidly enough to reprofile a recurve.

Also, the Vapor has a pretty gentle recurve. For something like a 3" hawkbill or a steep recurve -- like the EKI Commander or the Offset or Tyrade, I find that the squareness of the hone doesn't cut properly, or the curve beats up the hone's trueness pretty badly.

Included in the Sharpmaker category is any kind of ovaloid or circular diamond hone as well.

-j
Click to expand...

I am using a GATCO. It is similar to the Lansky. The Lansky's stones are narrower than a GATCO. I know that the GATCO works on my Vapor.

You are probably correct that the Sharpmaker and crock types are probably better on a recurve. I just think that with a bit of care it can be done with a rod guided system.

It does look like it has a different shape. I would almost sharpen each section seperately. SHarpen the recurve and then the belly and tip.

Kershaw Offset
ker1597g10.jpg


Kershaw Vapor
kershaw_1640.jpg
 
The front of the blade is easy to sharpen. It's the recurve of the blade that is where the problem is at. Does anybody know if they sell rods of various gritt for the lanskey? I'm gonna try to get some sort of rod and test it out. I just don't want to mess up the knife.

Does anybody have any actual experience sharpening a Kershay offset? Because where the two shapes meet in the middle of the blade, there is a sharp corner. It's not rounded at all.
 
I think it looks futuristic.

...

In theory, you get the advantages of a drop point (centerline point, reinforced tip, good thrusting and push cuts) and a hawkbill (good pull cuts, collects material into the edge, good on rope.)

I imagine it's the same multishape compromise you get with the Beck tracker.

I guess for a longer blade -- 6"+ -- you don't compromise the effect of either.

It's neat, but I'm not sure I can sharpen one to the degree that I'd be happy with.

-j
 
On the Offset, the front of the blade is flat ground while the back is hollow ground. Well, not ground but MIM molded but you get what I'm saying.
 
For reprofiling a recurved edge or sharpening when it gets heavily dulled or damaged, a large diamond rod sharpener such as those made by Hewlett or DMT is a pretty good choice. For routine touch-ups use a ceramic rod or Sharpmaker/Crock Sticks.
 
I own an Offset. I do not have a Lansky system, I use a Sharpmaker. I treat the blade like 2 separate bldes and finish one section before the other. I lighten up when I get to the point where the 2 curves meet, and use the flat side of the Sharpmaker only, and make sure to go slow and not let that point come off the stone. Works fine for me, just be careful and take your time. You could get an inexpensive knife and practice on that to gain confidence. I bought a Byrd Crossbill (hawkbill blade) to practice on first, and it is one of the sharpest knives I have, and didn't take long to get the feel for it. Cheap insurance if you're worried about ruining your Offset.

Your other option is to send it back to Kershaw before you sharpen it, or after you've tried and been unsuccessful.
Hope this helps.

Rik
 
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