Advice on sodbuster blade

[texasshipagent]

My first GEC was this sodbuster which I generally use as my hard use knife, in the yard, etc..

One thing that always sorta bothered me the blade grind did not extend to the tip, as you can see or hopefully as was hard to get a close up the edge stops at the tip

In someways I like this as an jabbing mulch bags and what not with it feel maybe gives a little beef to the tip

Is that intentional ? Or maybe just a factory flaw, if so what's a good way to finish the edge off tried on a whetstone and have a lansky system also just afraid going at not knowing much what am doing could make my problems worse

Thanks for some comments and suggestions

 

[sitflyer]

I use a technique very much like this guy on blade tips:


[video=youtube;KjRZzp5lMN0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjRZzp5lMN0[/video]

 

[Rich S]

I've reground the back of my sodbuster to a clip point (just in front of nail nick to original point). Just go slow with lots of cooling so you don't "burn" the blade. The point "burns" a lot easier as it is so much thinner.

Rich

 

[supratentorial]

You're talking about the primary grind? Right? Not the bevel on the edge?

I think you're talking about the primary grind and that would bother me also. I've previously owned two of those knives and neither of them had an issue. But I have experienced similar poor grinds on a lot of knives from Schatt and Morgan. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1297249-Queen-grinds-on-1095-420HC-and-ATS-34
The only way to truly fix it is to regrind the blade.

If it's just the edge bevel, then the first sharpening will fix it. I don't recall ever buying a knife from GEC that didn't require putting a bevel on the edge.

 

[texasshipagent]

You're talking about the primary grind? Right? Not the bevel on the edge?

I think you're talking about the primary grind and that would bother me also. I've previously owned two of those knives and neither of them had an issue. But I have experienced similar poor grinds on a lot of knives from Schatt and Morgan. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1297249-Queen-grinds-on-1095-420HC-and-ATS-34
The only way to truly fix it is to regrind the blade.

If it's just the edge bevel, then the first sharpening will fix it. I don't recall ever buying a knife from GEC that didn't require putting a bevel on the edge.

Yes is the primary grind stopped just short of the tip

 

[paulhilborn]

TSA, I had the very issue you talk about on three of my bull nose knives...tan, green and maroon linen...oddly I didn't have this issue with my Orange Red Neck or Farm and Field Orange Bull Nose?

I just profiled the edge out to the tip with my worksharp belt sharpener. I have to have an edge all the way to the tip

If it's something you'd like done and don't want to tackle it yourself just pm me and I'll provide my address and sharpen it for free:thumbup:

 

[daizee]

I could sharpen that on a diamond stone in about 5 minutes...

 

[supratentorial]

I could sharpen that on a diamond stone in about 5 minutes...

I suspect TSA could as well but it wouldn't fix the poor primary grind. It would need to be reground or reshaped to fix it.

TSA, I had the very issue you talk about on three of my bull nose knives...tan, green and maroon linen...oddly I didn't have this issue with my Orange Red Neck or Farm and Field Orange Bull Nose?

I just profiled the edge out to the tip with my worksharp belt sharpener. I have to have an edge all the way to the tip

If it's something you'd like done and don't want to tackle it yourself just pm me and I'll provide my address and sharpen it for free:thumbup:

That's nice of you to offer.

The ones that I had previously were the same ones that you said didn't have problems. I wonder why there was a change on the other runs.

 

[kootenay joe]

The O.P. pictures (esp. # 2) do show the problem with the tip of the blade, but how can you differentiate primary grind from edge grind at the very tip ?
If the edge grind was continued right to the very tip it would meet the blade spine and if done on both sides would give a sharp pointy tip. Or, am i not understanding this correctly ?
kj

 

[supratentorial]

The O.P. pictures (esp. # 2) do show the problem with the tip of the blade, but how can you differentiate primary grind from edge grind at the very tip ?
If the edge grind was continued right to the very tip it would meet the blade spine and if done on both sides would give a sharp pointy tip. Or, am i not understanding this correctly ?
kj

That wouldn't change the thickness directly behind the edge bevel. The primary grind would still be thicker toward the tip of blade.

There's a difference between the primary grind and edge bevel. In the past every time the issue of primary grinds was discussed, others also seemed to think the edge bevel was the only thing that mattered. Or maybe they confused the edge bevel and primary grinds. There seems to be a lot of confusion about primary grinds. That's why I asked to make sure.

You can have a blade with an edge along it's entirety and still have a poor primary grind. They are two different things. And it can have a functional significance. For example if the primary grind is thick near the tip, the blade won't be as good a slicer.

In this photo, "secondary edge" is the "primary grind". And "primary edge" is the "edge bevel" that is made by sharpening. If the primary grind is thicker on one end of the blade, sharpening will not fix it. The blade would need to be reground to truly fix it.

 

[sitflyer]

Thanks for the explanations Jake. I just thought the point was dull when I looked at the pics, looking again it became clearer to me where the grind was let off early. A thick point like that, if sharpened wouldn't bother me though. I tend to use the point more for piercing with, then do the slicing further down the blade, if I am cutting up cardboard or plastics.

 

[kootenay joe]

Jake, thank you for taking the time to make the explanatory post above. I do understand Primary Grind and Edge Grind/Bevel.
What i am still finding hard to visualize is the difference between these 2 at the very tip where the distance from spine to edge is only the width of the edge bevel.
I can understand that just back from the tip, the failure to extend the primary grind would mean that the edge bevel angle would become more obtuse because there would be more steel there(thicker).
Is the video in post #2 a correct technique for the OP's blade ?
kj

 

[supratentorial]

KJ, The primary grind extends beyond the point. When TSA said "tip" he was referring to more than just the point. If there's a bad primary grind and you choose to ignore it and only look at the edge bevel then you might not see a problem. But ignoring it doesn't fix the problem either. If you lift weights at the gym but only lift with your upper body and ignore leg exercises then you might look like Sponge Bob... big arms and tiny legs. Ignoring the legs doesn't make them any bigger.

 

[kootenay joe]

O.K., so is the technique shown in post #2 video going to correct absence of a primary grind at the tip ? Or, is his technique just grinding the edge bevel ?
kj

 

[supratentorial]

O.K., so is the technique shown in post #2 video going to correct absence of a primary grind at the tip ? Or, is his technique just grinding the edge bevel ?
kj

Sorry, KJ. I didn't see the video previously.

The video shows how to sharpen the edge and does not change the primary grind. That's another interesting topic but it doesn't address TSA's concerns.

If you watch GEC's tour videos, you can see how they grind the primary grind on the blades... well... you can sort of see it... it's difficult to see because a lot of the machine is covered. A lot of custom knife makers use a different technique. Some use huge specialized belt grinders. There are also different types of primary grinds that can be achieved using different techniques.

 

[supratentorial]

Fast forward to 13:04 (1st step) and then 16:24 (2nd step) in the 1st video to see the blade being ground. If I recall correctly, Bill calls it "double head the taper".

(part 1)
[youtube]ZeHWa5jyO74[/youtube]


Sharpening the edge of the blade occurs much later in a 3rd video. Fast forward to 5:23 for sharpening the edge. This step only changes the edge, not the primary grind.

(part 3)
[youtube]yPzgOs6JEyg[/youtube]

 

[texasshipagent]

Thanks for the explanations Jake. I just thought the point was dull when I looked at the pics, looking again it became clearer to me where the grind was let off early. A thick point like that, if sharpened wouldn't bother me though. I tend to use the point more for piercing with, then do the slicing further down the blade, if I am cutting up cardboard or plastics.

More or less that's why never bothered much about it

 

[texasshipagent]

Lots of kind advice and suggestions guys appreciate it, maybe hit it with the course lanky stones and just finish the edge off ?

 

[supratentorial]

If the edge isn't sharp, then sharpening would fix it. Sitflyer's video gives a good demonstration of sharpening the edge near the tip.

 

[Lefty923]

My GEC Soddy is the same way, however it doesn't look as extreme as TSA's soddy. I've just lived with it, still bugs me a little. Standard angle sharpening like on a Spyderco Sharpmaker won't correct the bevel unless it's fixed. I'll try the method in the video, or finish it with a profiling method.