Advice on some customizing 1 handle question, one blade question...

COPIUOS

COPIUOS

Joined
Dec 24, 2015
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Thanks in advance for any advice on these 2:

1st question - is it even conceivable to take on reprofiling a BOSS Jack PROTO by hand? Such a sweet blade that won't cut anything...or is it so thick i need belts/wheels? I don't believe I would have enough control with my handy dremel tool to not 'eff it up...

Any suggestions on how to do that by hand:eek::confused:? Is it possible.

2nd question - i have a flat ground CS SFNO that has beautiful black G10 g-rexed with a tan canvas inlay...
There is an eighth of an inch at least between top of tube flanges and where the actual handle material starts. It makes for a very heavy handle, and a little too round and fat for my liking. I would like to take the whole thing down to just above the tube flanges. How would you all recommend I accomplish that with the 2 different handle mediums? Or can I just sand away without regard as they will both lose material at the same rate? I am thinking not...:confused:

Thanks again Hogs for teaching me something again...

Cam
 
I don't have any of the answers you are seeking but am looking forward to the responses and the finished work if you decide to go ahead with it. Good luck Cam !
 
1. Probably not. That's why I dumped mine right after arrival. I satinized a Ruck Kensei by hand, but didn't really take the thickness down, except to improve the edge.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/477620-Satin-Ruck-Kensai?highlight=ruck

2. The two materials probably will sand down at a different rate, but it is still doable. Best to do outside, the G10 dust is very bad for your lungs, wear a dust mask. Try clamping down the blade, and use strips of sandpaper like shining your shoes.

It is a great looking knife,

 
My first Busses was a combat grade boss jack. Fatter than my prom date behind the edge. I used an extra coarse DMT diamond plate in my apartment to knock down the shoulder. No electricity. Just a super cool Appleseed shaped blade of awesomeness. It can be done. Oh yes, it can be done. Just be patient and go slow no matter how you decide to do it.
 
Thanks gents, I will go forth and do something...appreciate the perspectives.

Cam
 
I didn't like how my jackmandu swept so quickly at the tip also the grind distance from the flat to the edge were far different distances so I gave it more of a belly and full convexed it then acid bathed it and gave it some nice brush strokes. Its my main user and I love it now
image.jpg
 
On the Boss Jack, you can thin out the primary grind with wet sandpaper on a hard backing. I've used the edge of a granite counter top before. I would do almost all of the work at a low grit like 80. It will take a long time. That's how I did my SS4 and RMD.



 
Dark - so you had the sandpaper stuck to surface and had the knife in your hands? How did you ensure evenness on both sides and around all edges? Just eyeball? Or sharper? A little more detail on your process, would be helpful - thanks for your time and input.
 
THANKS everybody for the info so far...I am hearing both can be done....good enough for me...

Cam
 
Nice work by the way....

darkaether said:
On the Boss Jack, you can thin out the primary grind with wet sandpaper on a hard backing. I've used the edge of a granite counter top before. I would do almost all of the work at a low grit like 80. It will take a long time. That's how I did my SS4 and RMD.



Click to expand...
 
I wet the sandpaper, wet the counter, and put the paper at the edge of the counter. The water on the counter is enough to keep the sandpaper from sliding around, and the water on the sandpaper keep the abrasive and steel particulate out of the air. So don't let it get dry. You can rinse the buildup off in the sink.

I was going for something close to a full convex, and it takes a pretty long time, so I wasn't that worried about precise angles.

It has to be at the edge for your plunge line to have clearance.

It was a lot of fun. I really enjoy making stuff my own
 
That is the exact knife - was that a ganzaaaaa offering or a "one of a kind" that's been passed around?

Here is what I did to a CS MUK handle - black paper micarta, started out real thick and ropey/chevron-ey with high raised and almost sharp edges that felt like you were holding a spiky pickle and took all nimbleness away from this knife, I bought a tan linen LE after I did all this, and should have gone there first. However, now I have 2! and the CS is actually noticeably smaller blade-wise, not a ton, yet noticeably...

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resinguy said:
1. Probably not. That's why I dumped mine right after arrival. I satinized a Ruck Kensei by hand, but didn't really take the thickness down, except to improve the edge.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/477620-Satin-Ruck-Kensai?highlight=ruck

2. The two materials probably will sand down at a different rate, but it is still doable. Best to do outside, the G10 dust is very bad for your lungs, wear a dust mask. Try clamping down the blade, and use strips of sandpaper like shining your shoes.

It is a great looking knife,

Click to expand...
 

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You should look at the Sigma Power 120 waterstones, eats steel pretty fast while leaving a somewhat decent finish with the correct use. I use this myself to reprofile by hand, along with Atoma 140x to clean up a bit after the Sigma. The Sigma has a medium strength bond so it is not to difficult to keep the surface fresh just by providing the right amount of pressure to the stone while grinding. The bond strength should be about right for what you are looking to do, from what I can tell having used mine similarly.

You could also use something like Norton Crystolon or India, but be aware that these can be quite difficult to recondition and flatten once they get worn smooth and glazed over. Actually they would be about ideal from a grinding efficiency standpoint as you can use as much pressure as you are comfortable with applying without damaging or burning through the stones. You would be surprised at just how quickly these can chew through hardened steel like this with proper conditioning and high pressures.

Regarding number 2 question, I would strongly recommend you do nothing to the knife and either keep it as is OR sell it and buy the knife that closer resembles what you are after. There is nothing you can do to lighten the handle without removing the handle slabs and either adding through holes or tapered tang. Tapered tang is not possible due to talon hole/pommel constructions, that leaves through holes… do you have a drill press with bits for drilling hardened steel? If not, you could possibly send it out to have it water jetted.
 
I think those came out at Blade 2010. It was the same year that the B11 was released. They were also available in the Blade ganzaa. In several handle materials, satin, and maybe a few different coatings. The coated ones had fullers
 
COPIUOS said:
Thanks in advance for any advice on these 2:

1st question - is it even conceivable to take on reprofiling a BOSS Jack PROTO by hand? Such a sweet blade that won't cut anything...or is it so thick i need belts/wheels? I don't believe I would have enough control with my handy dremel tool to not 'eff it up...

Any suggestions on how to do that by hand:eek::confused:? Is it possible.

2nd question - i have a flat ground CS SFNO that has beautiful black G10 g-rexed with a tan canvas inlay...
There is an eighth of an inch at least between top of tube flanges and where the actual handle material starts. It makes for a very heavy handle, and a little too round and fat for my liking. I would like to take the whole thing down to just above the tube flanges. How would you all recommend I accomplish that with the 2 different handle mediums? Or can I just sand away without regard as they will both lose material at the same rate? I am thinking not...:confused:

Thanks again Hogs for teaching me something again...

Cam
Click to expand...

No help on number one.
On number 2. Using a backer on the sandpaper will prevent high/low spots between the 2 different materials. Wrap sandpaper around something flat, like a block of wood or metal bar and sand it more like you are using a file. Only use the "shoeshine method" in the finer grits for blending, once you are almost finieshed and you should be fine.

Randy
 
Randy - good call...

That's basically what I did on those paper micarta's on that MUK I mentioned with pictures earlier...good point on the planing effect. I am going to try at 220 and go up.

Cam
 
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